Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Jim McCarthy, Stan Gross, Spring 1955. FFA: Art Gran, Lito Tejada-Flores, 1965
Page Views: 14,494 total · 95/month
Shared By: Mike fenice on Jul 17, 2006
Admins: JSH

You & This Route

133 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:

     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:

-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick


In any other part of the country this would easily be 5.10a. It actually reminds me of "Rosy Crucifixion" in Eldo, but slightly less scary.

There are many variations to the top: pick one and go ...

The climb starts in the crack on the left-facing face below the tree. Traverse into the crack and head straight up. At the end of the crack, traverse left under the energy-depleting roof then around the corner, clipping a couple of junky pins. From here, head up and slightly right - don't clip the pin on your left, as it will create too much drag. Instead, place a #2 Camalot with a long sling. Make a few more 5.8 moves to the top and belay at a two-bolt anchor.

Two ropes to the ground, or one rope to another pair of bolts.


Start from P2 of Northern Pillar. You'll be climbing the right side of the massive Madame Grunnebaum's Wulst buttress.


Standard rack.
Crux pitch is excellent. Strenuous, really on you for about 15 feet. Exposed for Gunks. Big holds; 5.7 if vertical. Those in marginal shape--as I was when led this--can step left to place gear and back to ledge to rest before committing. Don't bother with lower pitches. Scramble up 5.3 face just to the right of start to the good part. Feb 19, 2008
eric larson
aurora, co
eric larson   aurora, co
greaaat pitch.. i wish it were longer though.. the moves are so much fun. the jug haul goes 5.8 probably, with the crux (for me) being the crack and traverse.. super exposed! Apr 22, 2008
A #3 Camelot is very useful. Jun 12, 2010
Jersey City, NJ
BrianRH   Jersey City, NJ
If you have a third, send a photographer up on top of the easy 5.2 in the corner. The jug haul up the arete is one of the best places in the Gunks to get wild shots. Dec 22, 2010
You can approach on P1 of Figerlocks or Cedar Box, 60m rope brings you to the belay block or the tree. Jun 20, 2011
Has anyone done it via the arete (i think it's Mister G). It would make it into full length pitch of superexposed 5.8-5.9 (that overall feels more like 5.10 I guess). Jul 27, 2011
Paul: yes, it is described here, I believe: mountainproject.com/v/teton…

Makes it a nice longer and sustained climb. Aug 2, 2011
gblauer Blauer
Wayne, PA
gblauer Blauer   Wayne, PA
very exposed. Nice burly jug haul at the end. Fun. Jun 20, 2012
RyderS Stroud
Liming, Yunnan Province, CN
RyderS Stroud   Liming, Yunnan Province, CN
Definitely required solid sequencing to fire the crux. Found myself in an outrageous laid out position above so much air! The creative sequencing definitely made it easier than trying to let my lockoff endurance carry me through... Great climb! May 19, 2013
Simon Thompson
New Paltz, NY
Simon Thompson   New Paltz, NY
Really fun climb with a pumpy crux and an exposed finish on some absolutely massive jugs. I took a completely unexpected whip onto a solid #2 at the beginning of the crux traverse sequence. Oct 20, 2013
Pawel Janowski
Pawel Janowski   WA
One of the best 5.9s. The exposed crux face has great moves and the juggy finish is pure fun. If only it were longer... Oct 28, 2013
Daniel Kaye
Boston, ma
Daniel Kaye   Boston, ma
The whole first half has quite nice movement. A few almost-easy thin moves after the rest out left gains you the 5.8 finishing jug-haul (my first time I didn't see this, went too far back right to try to follow just jugs, and found my way up in a more pumpy and less exposed/less spectacular means). I was surprised how well this takes gear the whole time, and although I placed a lot I didn't find a need for my #3. Jul 22, 2018