Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Jim McCarthy, Stan Gross, Spring 1955. FFA: Art Gran, Lito Tejada-Flores, 1965
Page Views: 16,296 total · 96/month
Shared By: Mike fenice on Jul 17, 2006
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Tree Preservation and Rappelling Details

Description

In any other part of the country this would easily be 5.10a. It actually reminds me of "Rosy Crucifixion" in Eldo, but slightly less scary.

There are many variations to the top: pick one and go ...

The climb starts in the crack on the left-facing face below the tree. Traverse into the crack and head straight up. At the end of the crack, traverse left under the energy-depleting roof then around the corner, clipping a couple of junky pins. From here, head up and slightly right - don't clip the pin on your left, as it will create too much drag. Instead, place a #2 Camalot with a long sling. Make a few more 5.8 moves to the top and belay at a two-bolt anchor.

Two ropes to the ground, or one rope to another pair of bolts.

Location

Start from P2 of Northern Pillar. You'll be climbing the right side of the massive Madame Grunnebaum's Wulst buttress.

Protection

Standard rack.

Photos