Mountain Project Logo

Routes in f. The Guides' Wall (Madame G's)

Asphodel T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Bag's End T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Beatle Brow Bulge T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Beginner's Delight T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Bitchy Virgin T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Blueberry Ledges T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Blueberry Wine T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Columbia T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Delusions of Grandeur T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Don't Shoot T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Finger Locks or Cedar Box T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Friends and Lovers T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Funny Face T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Hawk T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Hyjek's Horror T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Immaculate Virgin T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Le Teton T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Madame Grunnebaum's Wulst T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Minty T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Mr. P's Wurst T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Northern Pillar T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Peregrine T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Small Furry Mammals' Club T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Snooky's Return T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Son of Bitchy Virgin T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Southern Pillar T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Tetonia T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Tipsy Trees T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Triple Bulges T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Twin Oaks T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Unamed T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a PG13
Willie's Weep T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Type: Trad, 225 ft, 3 pitches
FA: George and Herbert Evans and Robert Graef (1953)
Page Views: 1,883 total, 16/month
Shared By: Tim Schafstall on Apr 11, 2008
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


19 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Yuck!!

Not because of anything weeping, but because of the wandering P1 and some loose rock. We never got to the weepy part (actually, we never really wanted to do the route after downclimbing and rapping it to get off Triple Bulges), which is after the nice rappel at the top of P2.

Williams describes a direct variation that ascends the obvious long corner partway up P1 (essentially avoiding the last traverse) with a rating of 5.6 G to which he gives one star. It looked uninviting and I've not done it.

P1 - Climb a short left-facing corner to a stance, then move up and right to a short, wide horizontal at about 50 feet. Diagonal left to another horizontal and move still farther left to the large, obvious corner with some broken rock. Traverse left past some loose rock (scary for 5.2) to the belay tree/ledge for Twin Oaks.

P2 - Williams describes a second pitch that seems awfully close to Triple Bulges, perhaps a bit right, without the final bulges. I tried to follow it but kept ending up actually on Triple Bulges.

P3 - Avoid. From the belay tree, climb the seepy, broken 15-foot high corner to climber's left, then move left and up the grassy, easy face to the top. Definitely not worth doing.

Location

About 35 feet right and around the corner from the obvious crack that marks Twin Oaks.

Protection

Standard Gunks rack. Williams' Guide says G, but I found P1 very PG.

Photos

Elan Trybuch  
 
I went up the 5.6 variation on Saturday, June 6th. I love stem climbing and this was right up my ally. I did find that this route could use some cleaning and more traffic. It really is a terrific variation with lots of good pro through out. Traversing out to the top, I found a bit tricky, as some of the pro placements was very thin. Lot of sloppy holds, but covered in lichen, which for me, made it feel slippery. All in all would lead again. * since it's a bit dirty, more traffic, and cleaner would certainly warrant ** or even *** in my opinion. Jun 8, 2015
TheIceManCometh
Albany, NY
 
TheIceManCometh   Albany, NY
 
Did the regular 1st pitch with my 12 yr old son. I thought it was a nice climb but maybe harder than 5.2 for a new leader. Nice face moves protected by aliens or C3s in pin scars then a great layback in the corner. Didn't notice much loose rock. Oct 18, 2011
JSH

JSH    
We did the 5.6 variation yesterday - it was a lot of ... fun! (I thought) or ... yuk, loose! (Scott thought). The beginning pitch is definitely more on the PG than G side of things.

Some loose rock, yes, but lots of fun wandering back and forth between the corner and arete. One 60m will just get you down. Jul 19, 2010