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Routes in f. The Guides' Wall (Madame G's)

Asphodel T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Bag's End T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Beatle Brow Bulge T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Beginner's Delight T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Bitchy Virgin T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Blueberry Ledges T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Blueberry Wine T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Columbia T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Delusions of Grandeur T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Don't Shoot T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Finger Locks or Cedar Box T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Friends and Lovers T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Funny Face T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Hawk T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Hyjek's Horror T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Immaculate Virgin T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Le Teton T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Madame Grunnebaum's Wulst T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Minty T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Mr. P's Wurst T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Northern Pillar T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Peregrine T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Reach of Faith T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Small Furry Mammals' Club T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Snooky's Return T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Son of Bitchy Virgin T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Southern Pillar T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Tetonia T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Tipsy Trees T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Triple Bulges T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Twin Oaks T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Unamed T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a PG13
Willie's Weep T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Trad, 225 ft, 3 pitches
FA: George and Herbert Evans and Robert Graef (1953)
Page Views: 2,021 total · 16/month
Shared By: Tim Schafstall on Apr 11, 2008
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


23 Opinions

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Access Issue: 2018 Peregrine closure: Wisecrack to Scary Area Details
Access Issue: Seasonal Route Closure Details

Description [Suggest Change]

Yuck!!

Not because of anything weeping, but because of the wandering P1 and some loose rock. We never got to the weepy part (actually, we never really wanted to do the route after downclimbing and rapping it to get off Triple Bulges), which is after the nice rappel at the top of P2.

Williams describes a direct variation that ascends the obvious long corner partway up P1 (essentially avoiding the last traverse) with a rating of 5.6 G to which he gives one star. It looked uninviting and I've not done it.

P1 - Climb a short left-facing corner to a stance, then move up and right to a short, wide horizontal at about 50 feet. Diagonal left to another horizontal and move still farther left to the large, obvious corner with some broken rock. Traverse left past some loose rock (scary for 5.2) to the belay tree/ledge for Twin Oaks.

P2 - Williams describes a second pitch that seems awfully close to Triple Bulges, perhaps a bit right, without the final bulges. I tried to follow it but kept ending up actually on Triple Bulges.

P3 - Avoid. From the belay tree, climb the seepy, broken 15-foot high corner to climber's left, then move left and up the grassy, easy face to the top. Definitely not worth doing.

Location [Suggest Change]

About 35 feet right and around the corner from the obvious crack that marks Twin Oaks.

Protection [Suggest Change]

Standard Gunks rack. Williams' Guide says G, but I found P1 very PG.

Photos

JSH

JSH    
We did the 5.6 variation yesterday - it was a lot of ... fun! (I thought) or ... yuk, loose! (Scott thought). The beginning pitch is definitely more on the PG than G side of things.

Some loose rock, yes, but lots of fun wandering back and forth between the corner and arete. One 60m will just get you down. Jul 19, 2010
TheIceManCometh
Albany, NY
 
TheIceManCometh   Albany, NY
 
Did the regular 1st pitch with my 12 yr old son. I thought it was a nice climb but maybe harder than 5.2 for a new leader. Nice face moves protected by aliens or C3s in pin scars then a great layback in the corner. Didn't notice much loose rock. Oct 18, 2011
Elan Trybuch  
 
I went up the 5.6 variation on Saturday, June 6th. I love stem climbing and this was right up my ally. I did find that this route could use some cleaning and more traffic. It really is a terrific variation with lots of good pro through out. Traversing out to the top, I found a bit tricky, as some of the pro placements was very thin. Lot of sloppy holds, but covered in lichen, which for me, made it feel slippery. All in all would lead again. * since it's a bit dirty, more traffic, and cleaner would certainly warrant ** or even *** in my opinion. Jun 8, 2015
Is this the same route as Weeping Willies? I climbed a route by that name and similar description found on the Trapps App. P1 started on easy, low angle climbing. Started up and right, then angled back left (only places I could find pro). Belayed under the right facing corner. P2 corner was very fun, moved left onto the face and belayed from rappel tree. We did a P3 where we traversed into middle of P2 of triple bulges (very doable, protected by small cams) and finished on the white roof system. Mar 31, 2018
Andrea Cockfield
Valley Forge, Pennsylvania
Andrea Cockfield   Valley Forge, Pennsylvania
Did the 5.6 direct variation, as per the grey Dick, on Jun 6 and agree with JSH and Elan it was fun (and loose/dirty in spots). The short but featured corner system offered classic moves reminding us of Frog's Head and Madame G. It's worth a new entry as "Willie's Weep Direct" with some pics and topos to show the route straight up from the belay above the slap and under the corner. 5.6 lead in 2 pitches with PG pro. Jun 8, 2018
JSH

JSH    
Andrea, that sounds like a worthwhile idea -- please do add it as a separate route for 5.6. Jun 8, 2018

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