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Routes in f. The Guides' Wall (Madame G's)

Asphodel T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Bag's End T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Beatle Brow Bulge T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Beginner's Delight T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Bitchy Virgin T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Blueberry Ledges T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Blueberry Wine T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Columbia T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Delusions of Grandeur T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Don't Shoot T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Finger Locks or Cedar Box T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Friends and Lovers T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Funny Face T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Hawk T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Hyjek's Horror T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Immaculate Virgin T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Le Teton T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Madame Grunnebaum's Wulst T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Minty T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Mr. P's Wurst T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Northern Pillar T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Peregrine T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Reach of Faith T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Small Furry Mammals' Club T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Snooky's Return T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Son of Bitchy Virgin T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Southern Pillar T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Tetonia T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Tipsy Trees T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Triple Bulges T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Twin Oaks T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Unamed T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a PG13
Weeping Willie (direct) T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Willie's Weep T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
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Type: Trad, 225 ft, 3 pitches
FA: George and Herbert Evans and Robert Graef (1953)
Page Views: 2,119 total · 17/month
Shared By: Tim Schafstall on Apr 11, 2008
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


23 Opinions

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Description

Yuck!!

Not because of anything weeping, but because of the wandering P1 and some loose rock. We never got to the weepy part (actually, we never really wanted to do the route after downclimbing and rapping it to get off Triple Bulges), which is after the nice rappel at the top of P2.

P1 - Climb a short left-facing corner to a stance, then move up and right to a short, wide horizontal at about 50 feet. Diagonal left to another horizontal and move still farther left to the large, obvious corner with some broken rock. Traverse left past some loose rock (scary for 5.2) to the belay tree/ledge for Twin Oaks.

P2 - Williams describes a second pitch that seems awfully close to Triple Bulges, perhaps a bit right, without the final bulges. I tried to follow it but kept ending up actually on Triple Bulges.

P3 - Avoid. From the belay tree, climb the seepy, broken 15-foot high corner to climber's left, then move left and up the grassy, easy face to the top. Definitely not worth doing.

Location

About 35 feet right and around the corner from the obvious crack that marks Twin Oaks.

Protection

Standard Gunks rack. Williams' Guide says G, but I found P1 very PG.

Photos

TheIceManCometh
Albany, NY
 
TheIceManCometh   Albany, NY
 
Did the regular 1st pitch with my 12 yr old son. I thought it was a nice climb but maybe harder than 5.2 for a new leader. Nice face moves protected by aliens or C3s in pin scars then a great layback in the corner. Didn't notice much loose rock. Oct 18, 2011

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