Type: Trad, 170 ft (52 m), 3 pitches
FA: Rich Perch (Mr P) and Ivan Rezucha
Page Views: 2,990 total · 19/month
Shared By: MojoMonkey on Oct 4, 2011
Admins: Morgan Patterson, M Santisi, chris vultaggio

You & This Route

23 Opinions
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Description Suggest change

Climbs up the orange buttress to the right of Madame G's and the left of Le Teton. There are three prominent overhangs near the top of the buttress, this route weaves up through the left side of the first, right of the second, and left of the third to merge with Madame G's Wulst at the top.

Note - I tried this for the first time recently without really reading the guidebook well and accidentally did the 5.6R variation. Someone who has done the standard route can elaborate on that part. I'll list 3 pitches as in the gray dick, though I linked pitches 2&3.

Pitch 1: Scramble up the gully for about 50 feet. Anchor in the gully.

Pitch 2: Angle up and left on good holds towards the first overhang and build a belay. 5.8, 60'.

Pitch 3: Climb the overhang at a crack, then angle left, staying right of the next overhang and left of the third overhang and Le Teton. Exit to the GT Ledge in the same spot as Madame G. 5.7+, 60'.

Variation: There is a ledge off to the left side of the gully about the same level of the start of Madame G's P2 and the ledge used to top rope the guide's wall. From here you can climb the pebbly face at around 5.6R heading towards the first overhang. I angled right towards the arete a little, then back to the left merging with the standard P2. I placed some small pieces (micronut, black tricam, one of the smaller BD C3s) but wasn't thrilled by them.

Descent:  the Madame G's bolt anchors.

Location Suggest change

Starts right of the orange Madame G's buttress in the gully frequently used to set up top ropes on the Guide's Wall.

Protection Suggest change

Standard Gunks rack. I'd recommend bringing enough to link P2/P3.

Some micronuts/cams may help a on the variation.