Avg: 2.4 from 21 votes
|Type:||Trad, 170 ft (52 m), 3 pitches|
|FA:||Rich Perch (Mr P) and Ivan Rezucha|
|Page Views:||2,670 total · 20/month|
|Shared By:||MojoMonkey on Oct 4, 2011|
|Admins:||Morgan Patterson, RJ B|
Note - I tried this for the first time recently without really reading the guidebook well and accidentally did the 5.6R variation. Someone who has done the standard route can elaborate on that part. I'll list 3 pitches as in the gray dick, though I linked pitches 2&3.
Pitch 1: Scramble up the gully for about 50 feet. Anchor in the gully.
Pitch 2: Angle up and left on good holds towards the first overhang and build a belay. 5.8, 60'.
Pitch 3: Climb the overhang at a crack, then angle left, staying right of the next overhang and left of the third overhang and Le Teton. Exit to the GT Ledge in the same spot as Madame G. 5.7+, 60'.
Variation: There is a ledge off to the left side of the gully about the same level of the start of Madame G's P2 and the ledge used to top rope the guide's wall. From here you can climb the pebbly face at around 5.6R heading towards the first overhang. I angled right towards the arete a little, then back to the left merging with the standard P2. I placed some small pieces (micronut, black tricam, one of the smaller BD C3s) but wasn't thrilled by them.
Descent: the Madame G's bolt anchors.