Type: Trad, 80 ft (24 m)
FA: Ron Sacks, Anne Dubats, Mike Sawicky, Rick Cronk 1978
Page Views: 5,106 total · 23/month
Shared By: Guy H. on May 4, 2006 · Updates
Admins: Morgan Patterson, M Santisi, chris vultaggio

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

Swain gives this climb a 'R' rating for the first pitch but most climbers get adequate gear, one of those often scary but not truly dangerous climbs.  

Use the same access trail as for Minty. This is about a 9-min. walk from the Uberfall, or a 5-min. walk from where the East Trapps Connector Trail meets the carriage road. At the cliff, walk 35' left of Minty to the start of the route.

Start about 15'-20' right of Snooky's Return below some shallow right-facing corners.

P1: Head up into the short right-facing corner above and surmount the first crux at a small overlap.  Easier climbing leads to a stance where you can load up on pro before making a thin committing move (crux 2).  Fun easier face climbing leads to a traverse left and then a ledge walk to the Snooky bolted anchor for a lower off.  Much easier less interesting climbing above yields two more rarely done pitches.

Rappel over Snooky's Return.

Location Suggest change

Located 20' right of Snooky's Return and 35' left of Minty.

Protection Suggest change

Standard Rack, with extra thin gear...

Photos

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