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5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British PG13
Avg: 2.7 from 75
votes
Routes in f. The Guides' Wall (Madame G's)
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Asphodel T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Bag's End T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Beatle Brow Bulge T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Beginner's Delight T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Bitchy Virgin T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Blueberry Ledges T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13 |
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Blueberry Wine T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Columbia T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Delusions of Grandeur T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Don't Shoot T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Finger Locks or Cedar Box T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Friends and Lovers T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Funny Face T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Hawk T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Hyjek's Horror T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Immaculate Virgin T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 |
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Le Teton T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Madame Grunnebaum's Wulst T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Minty T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Mr. P's Wurst T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Northern Pillar T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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Peregrine T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Reach of Faith T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Small Furry Mammals' Club T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Snooky's Return T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Son of Bitchy Virgin T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 |
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Southern Pillar T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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Tetonia T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Tipsy Trees T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Triple Bulges T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Twin Oaks T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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Unamed T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a PG13 |
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Weeping Willie (direct) T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Willie's Weep T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c |
Order Wrong?
Sort Routes
| Type: | Trad, 230 ft, 3 pitches |
| FA: | Ron Sacks, Anne Dubats, Mike Sawicky, Rick Cronk 1978 |
| Page Views: | 3,532 total · 23/month |
| Shared By: | Guy H. on May 4, 2006 |
| Admins: | JSH |
Your Star Rating:
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures 2019
Details
The 2109 Trapps closure is from Wise Crack to Scary Area.
Bouldering is closed in the Trapps from Atlas to Yikes.
At Bonticou, the Sunbowl is closed.
At Millbrook, routes south of Westward Ha! are closed.
Thank you for your cooperation,
The birds.
For up to date information visit:
mohonkpreserve.org/what-we-…
Bouldering is closed in the Trapps from Atlas to Yikes.
At Bonticou, the Sunbowl is closed.
At Millbrook, routes south of Westward Ha! are closed.
Thank you for your cooperation,
The birds.
For up to date information visit:
mohonkpreserve.org/what-we-…
Description
Swain gives this climb a 'R' rating for the first pitch. I found enough gear to make this a reasonable lead.
Use the same access trail as for Minty. This is about a 9-min. walk from the Uberfall, or a 5-min. walk from where the East Trapps Connector Trail meets the carriage road. At the cliff, walk 35' left of Minty to the start of the route.
Start about 15'-20' right of Snooky's Return below some shallow right-facing corners.
P1: Head up into the right-facing corner above. The first crux comes at a weird move near an overlap. Place gear often in this area, since the gear is a little on the shallow and thin side. A 2nd crux comes at a committing smear and high step move (greasy feet). A #2 ballnut is useful for the final face, before the traverse left to the Snooky's Return bolt anchors. A fun pitch. 5.9, 100'.
P2/P3: Move the belay left about 30'. Climb the large left-facing dihedral to the top. (5.5)
Rappel over Snooky's Return.
Use the same access trail as for Minty. This is about a 9-min. walk from the Uberfall, or a 5-min. walk from where the East Trapps Connector Trail meets the carriage road. At the cliff, walk 35' left of Minty to the start of the route.
Start about 15'-20' right of Snooky's Return below some shallow right-facing corners.
P1: Head up into the right-facing corner above. The first crux comes at a weird move near an overlap. Place gear often in this area, since the gear is a little on the shallow and thin side. A 2nd crux comes at a committing smear and high step move (greasy feet). A #2 ballnut is useful for the final face, before the traverse left to the Snooky's Return bolt anchors. A fun pitch. 5.9, 100'.
P2/P3: Move the belay left about 30'. Climb the large left-facing dihedral to the top. (5.5)
Rappel over Snooky's Return.
Lowe Balls helpful on this one. Apr 2, 2008
Fun pitch, great face climbing. Apr 14, 2013
Burlington, CT
New York, New York
5.9 R Oct 6, 2014
Somerville, MA
A fun route to get you a little sweaty at the bear hug move. It's got a few runouts but it can be protected safely. Sep 8, 2015