Friends and Lovers
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British PG13
Avg: 2.7 from 117 votes
Type: | Trad, 80 ft (24 m) |
FA: | Ron Sacks, Anne Dubats, Mike Sawicky, Rick Cronk 1978 |
Page Views: | 5,228 total · 23/month |
Shared By: | Guy H. on May 4, 2006 · Updates |
Admins: | Morgan Patterson, M Santisi, chris vultaggio |
Description
Swain gives this climb a 'R' rating for the first pitch but most climbers get adequate gear, one of those often scary but not truly dangerous climbs.
Use the same access trail as for Minty. This is about a 9-min. walk from the Uberfall, or a 5-min. walk from where the East Trapps Connector Trail meets the carriage road. At the cliff, walk 35' left of Minty to the start of the route.
Start about 15'-20' right of Snooky's Return below some shallow right-facing corners.
P1: Head up into the short right-facing corner above and surmount the first crux at a small overlap. Easier climbing leads to a stance where you can load up on pro before making a thin committing move (crux 2). Fun easier face climbing leads to a traverse left and then a ledge walk to the Snooky bolted anchor for a lower off. Much easier less interesting climbing above yields two more rarely done pitches.
Rappel over Snooky's Return.
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