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5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British PG13
Avg: 2.7 from 88
votes
Routes in f. The Guides' Wall (Madame G's)
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Asphodel T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Bag's End T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Beatle Brow Bulge T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Beginner's Delight T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Blueberry Ledges T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13 |
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Blueberry Wine T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Brave Valkyrie T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Columbia T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Delusions of Grandeur T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Don't Shoot T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Easy Version T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13 |
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Finger Locks or Cedar Box T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Friends and Lovers T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Funny Face T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Hawk T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Hyjek's Horror T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Immaculate Virgin T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 |
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Le Teton T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Madame Grunnebaum's Wulst T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Minty T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Mr. P's Wurst T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Northern Pillar T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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Peregrine T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Reach of Faith T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Seldom Mustard Never Relish T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Small Furry Mammals' Club T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Snooky's Return T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Son of Bitchy Virgin T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 |
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Southern Pillar T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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Tetonia T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Tipsy Trees T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Triple Bulges T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Twin Oaks T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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Weeping Willie (direct) T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Willie's Weep T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 230 ft, 3 pitches |
| FA: | Ron Sacks, Anne Dubats, Mike Sawicky, Rick Cronk 1978 |
| Page Views: | 4,062 total · 23/month |
| Shared By: | Guy H. on May 4, 2006 |
| Admins: | RJ B |
Your Star Rating:
Access Issue: Tree Preservation and Rappelling
Details
Please use bolted rappel anchors to descend whenever possible.
The Mohonk Preserve, GCC, Access Fund, and Petzl have worked to install bolted anchors that eliminate the need to rappel from healthy trees with slings and rings. The primary reason for this action has been to reduce impact on the trees. By monitoring the trees we have direct evidence that this has worked.
Do NOT rappel from trees without in situ anchors. Wrapping ropes around trees is banned by the Mohonk Preserve, and damages the tree even if done only once. The Mohonk Preserve is private land and climbing access is a privilege that can be revoked. It is incumbent upon us as climbers to speak up when we witness environmentally unsound practices – so DO speak up and spread the word.
Currently there are enough rappel stations and walk-off options that a VERY short walk will lead to a bolted station, healthy tree with slings, or down-climb descent. The Gunks Apps, MP, and newer print guidebook each have detailed information that provide Leave No Trace descents.
If you feel there is a situation where there is no good LNT descent, you can contact the GCC or the Climbing Ranger of the Mohonk Preserve directly.
The Mohonk Preserve, GCC, Access Fund, and Petzl have worked to install bolted anchors that eliminate the need to rappel from healthy trees with slings and rings. The primary reason for this action has been to reduce impact on the trees. By monitoring the trees we have direct evidence that this has worked.
Do NOT rappel from trees without in situ anchors. Wrapping ropes around trees is banned by the Mohonk Preserve, and damages the tree even if done only once. The Mohonk Preserve is private land and climbing access is a privilege that can be revoked. It is incumbent upon us as climbers to speak up when we witness environmentally unsound practices – so DO speak up and spread the word.
Currently there are enough rappel stations and walk-off options that a VERY short walk will lead to a bolted station, healthy tree with slings, or down-climb descent. The Gunks Apps, MP, and newer print guidebook each have detailed information that provide Leave No Trace descents.
If you feel there is a situation where there is no good LNT descent, you can contact the GCC or the Climbing Ranger of the Mohonk Preserve directly.
Description
Swain gives this climb a 'R' rating for the first pitch. I found enough gear to make this a reasonable lead.
Use the same access trail as for Minty. This is about a 9-min. walk from the Uberfall, or a 5-min. walk from where the East Trapps Connector Trail meets the carriage road. At the cliff, walk 35' left of Minty to the start of the route.
Start about 15'-20' right of Snooky's Return below some shallow right-facing corners.
P1: Head up into the right-facing corner above. The first crux comes at a weird move near an overlap. Place gear often in this area, since the gear is a little on the shallow and thin side. A 2nd crux comes at a committing smear and high step move (greasy feet). A #2 ballnut is useful for the final face, before the traverse left to the Snooky's Return bolt anchors. A fun pitch. 5.9, 100'.
P2/P3: Move the belay left about 30'. Climb the large left-facing dihedral to the top. (5.5)
Rappel over Snooky's Return.
Use the same access trail as for Minty. This is about a 9-min. walk from the Uberfall, or a 5-min. walk from where the East Trapps Connector Trail meets the carriage road. At the cliff, walk 35' left of Minty to the start of the route.
Start about 15'-20' right of Snooky's Return below some shallow right-facing corners.
P1: Head up into the right-facing corner above. The first crux comes at a weird move near an overlap. Place gear often in this area, since the gear is a little on the shallow and thin side. A 2nd crux comes at a committing smear and high step move (greasy feet). A #2 ballnut is useful for the final face, before the traverse left to the Snooky's Return bolt anchors. A fun pitch. 5.9, 100'.
P2/P3: Move the belay left about 30'. Climb the large left-facing dihedral to the top. (5.5)
Rappel over Snooky's Return.
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