Friends and Lovers
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British PG13
Type: | Trad, 230 ft (70 m), 3 pitches |
FA: | Ron Sacks, Anne Dubats, Mike Sawicky, Rick Cronk 1978 |
Page Views: | 4,686 total · 24/month |
Shared By: | Guy H. on May 4, 2006 |
Admins: | Morgan Patterson, RJ B |
Description
Swain gives this climb a 'R' rating for the first pitch. I found enough gear to make this a reasonable lead.
Use the same access trail as for Minty. This is about a 9-min. walk from the Uberfall, or a 5-min. walk from where the East Trapps Connector Trail meets the carriage road. At the cliff, walk 35' left of Minty to the start of the route.
Start about 15'-20' right of Snooky's Return below some shallow right-facing corners.
P1: Head up into the right-facing corner above. The first crux comes at a weird move near an overlap. Place gear often in this area, since the gear is a little on the shallow and thin side. A 2nd crux comes at a committing smear and high step move (greasy feet). A #2 ballnut is useful for the final face, before the traverse left to the Snooky's Return bolt anchors. A fun pitch. 5.9, 100'.
P2/P3: Move the belay left about 30'. Climb the large left-facing dihedral to the top. (5.5)
Rappel over Snooky's Return.
Use the same access trail as for Minty. This is about a 9-min. walk from the Uberfall, or a 5-min. walk from where the East Trapps Connector Trail meets the carriage road. At the cliff, walk 35' left of Minty to the start of the route.
Start about 15'-20' right of Snooky's Return below some shallow right-facing corners.
P1: Head up into the right-facing corner above. The first crux comes at a weird move near an overlap. Place gear often in this area, since the gear is a little on the shallow and thin side. A 2nd crux comes at a committing smear and high step move (greasy feet). A #2 ballnut is useful for the final face, before the traverse left to the Snooky's Return bolt anchors. A fun pitch. 5.9, 100'.
P2/P3: Move the belay left about 30'. Climb the large left-facing dihedral to the top. (5.5)
Rappel over Snooky's Return.
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