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Routes in f. The Guides' Wall (Madame G's)

Asphodel T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Bag's End T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Beatle Brow Bulge T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Beginner's Delight T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Bitchy Virgin T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Blueberry Ledges T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Blueberry Wine T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Columbia T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Delusions of Grandeur T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Don't Shoot T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Finger Locks or Cedar Box T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Friends and Lovers T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Funny Face T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Hawk T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Hyjek's Horror T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Immaculate Virgin T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Le Teton T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Madame Grunnebaum's Wulst T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Minty T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Mr. P's Wurst T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Northern Pillar T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Peregrine T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Reach of Faith T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Small Furry Mammals' Club T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Snooky's Return T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Son of Bitchy Virgin T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Southern Pillar T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Tetonia T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Tipsy Trees T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Triple Bulges T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Twin Oaks T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Unamed T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a PG13
Willie's Weep T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Type: Trad, 230 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Ron Sacks, Anne Dubats, Mike Sawicky, Rick Cronk 1978
Page Views: 3,212 total · 23/month
Shared By: Guy H. on May 4, 2006
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


75 Opinions

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Description

Swain gives this climb a 'R' rating for the first pitch. I found enough gear to make this a reasonable lead.

Use the same access trail as for Minty. This is about a 9-min. walk from the Uberfall, or a 5-min. walk from where the East Trapps Connector Trail meets the carriage road. At the cliff, walk 35' left of Minty to the start of the route.

Start about 15'-20' right of Snooky's Return below some shallow right-facing corners.

P1: Head up into the right-facing corner above. The first crux comes at a weird move near an overlap. Place gear often in this area, since the gear is a little on the shallow and thin side. A 2nd crux comes at a committing smear and high step move (greasy feet). A #2 ballnut is useful for the final face, before the traverse left to the Snooky's Return bolt anchors. A fun pitch. 5.9, 100'.

P2/P3: Move the belay left about 30'. Climb the large left-facing dihedral to the top. (5.5)

Rappel over Snooky's Return.

Location

Located 20' right of Snooky's Return and 35' left of Minty.

Protection

Standard Rack, with extra thin gear...

Photos

John Gassel
Boston, MA
  5.9
John Gassel   Boston, MA
  5.9
I second the previous post by David. I was going to express almost the exact same thoughts.

A fun route to get you a little sweaty at the bear hug move. It's got a few runouts but it can be protected safely. Sep 8, 2015
If you are calling the first overlap at about 25 feet the first crux then the gear there is great. Not only do you have rock solid placement in a horizontal, but there is also an obvious nut placement a few feet above that in a vertical crack that you can place before committing to any moves, you could hang a car off of that piece. You also get another good cam a few feet higher after mover over that overlap. The only spot on the this pitch where you are doing any challenging moves over gear is at the "bear hug" crux moving off of the ledge and that gear is also rock solid and can be doubled up. I would think this route to be a bad choice for someone breaking into the grade, but for anyone who is solid on 9 or higher they should have no problem safely leading this and finding very good gear the whole way. Definitely not R. You never go more than 10 feet without the ability to place a good piece. May 9, 2015
I thought the first pitch was pretty fantastic and exciting face climbing. The pro at the first crux is a little fiddly. Grey Dick recommends Ballnutz, but I found a fit for a C3. The second crux is thin climbing with gear below your feet that can be backed up. Both cruxes require extended sections of thin 5.7ish climbing well above gear. May 4, 2015
Paul NotPaul
New York, New York
Paul NotPaul   New York, New York
On October 2014 my buddy took a fall from right above the first crux on a cam placed under the first slight overhang. The fall had him slam into the sloped face about 10 feet below the overhang. He slammed on his foot and his ankle puffed up big time. He couldn't walk and the day ended with a trip on the back of a mohonk pickup. Orthopedist visits are next.

5.9 R Oct 6, 2014
rogerbenton
  5.9 PG13
rogerbenton  
  5.9 PG13
FWIW, Grey Dick calls it PG but also calls out ballnutz for crux pro. Nov 14, 2013
Alex Jacques
Burlington, CT
 
Alex Jacques   Burlington, CT
 
I guess I can see an argument that this climb is PG-13, but the falls would all be clean. Fun and sketchy crux move (the greasy foot one) above gear. Plug smart and don't worry about it. Oct 13, 2013
I'm not sure what gear you were using, but for me every placement on the first pitch is rock solid gear. There are no iffy placements on this pitch and there is no specialty gear needed. For some reason this pitch got an R in the old Swain guide. This pitch is PG and only because of the crux, which requires that you make a move or two with your feet over the gear. Other than that you are dong beautiful aesthetic face moves on good gear. Apr 27, 2013
rogerbenton
  5.9 PG13
rogerbenton  
  5.9 PG13
I'm giving the first pitch a PG-13: there is gear enough to keep you off the deck but there are definitely ugly falls possible, and on less than stellar placements.

Fun pitch, great face climbing. Apr 14, 2013
losbill
  5.9
losbill  
  5.9
Minty P2 and Snooky's Return P3 trees are dead and webbing and rings are no longer on them. Top and take short walk climber's right to Madame G's rap. Nov 14, 2010
Super first pitch, but this climb stays wet longer than any other in the Gunks (even Hawk) due to a persistent drip about 15-20 feet up.
Lowe Balls helpful on this one. Apr 2, 2008