Type: Trad, 290 ft (88 m), 3 pitches
FA: Willie Crowther, Gardiner and Mary Perry, 1958
Page Views: 9,843 total · 46/month
Shared By: John Peterson on Mar 13, 2006
Admins: Morgan Patterson, RJ B

You & This Route

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Description Suggest change

Locate a clean crack system leading past a big pine to a smaller one about 50' right of Minty. This pitch is often used by guides to toprope beginners.

P1: Climb the crack to the upper tree. 5.3, 80'.
This pitch was highly impacted by massive rockfall in 2008. See comments below.

P2: Climb up a short corner (about 10'-15'), place a LONG runner, and traverse right about 15' to another corner. Place pro and commit to a "old school" gunks 5.4 move stepping right around the corner. Things ease up about 20' later and you can continue right and up to the GT Ledge at the base of a large corner. 5.5, 140'.

Not a pitch for a first 5.5 lead - the crux is very steep and even with the big jugs it's scary. Also, it's very easy to lock yourself down with rope drag on this pitch.

P3: Up the corner to the top. 5.3, 70'.

Descend either to the left (Minty) or the right (Madame G's). Or walk left to the Uberfall Descent. The Madame G's rap is better on weekends since it doesn't interfere with climbers coming up.

Protection Suggest change

Standard Gunks rack; small cams will make you feel better at the crux.