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Routes in a2. The Uberfall - right

BB Route T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Birch T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Boston T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
CC Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Charie TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a X
Clover T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Crimson Corner T 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c
Crowberry Ridge T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R
DD Route T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Das Wiggles T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a PG13
Dirty Chimney T 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c
Eyesore T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Fitschen's Folly T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Flake, The T,TR 5.1 2 6 II 7 MD 2a PG13
Freebie TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Harvard T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Hudson's Boulder Problem, aka Trashcan Overhang T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Jacob's Ladder T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Junior T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Ken's Crack T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Laurel T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Low Exposure T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Mitty Mouse T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
No-Pro T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Phoebe T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Rhododendron T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Shitty Mitty T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Squiggles T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Squiggles Direct T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Star Route, The T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Susie A T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Trapped Like a Rat T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Uberfall Descent T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c
Unknown aka Ken and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Walter Mitty T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Wriggles T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Yale T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
You're Probably Off Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Type: Trad, 25 ft
FA: Santa Claus
Page Views: 7,659 total, 76/month
Shared By: JSH on Aug 18, 2009
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


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Description

For most routes near the Uberfall - from Horseman, past Jackie, including Baby, Son of Easy O, City Lights and Maria, all the way to the routes around Sixish and Drunkard's Delight, walking off is a good (and sometimes, given crowds, the best) option.

From the top of Horseman and neighboring routes, wander down and climbers' right back towards the cliff top. Find the stream bed and follow it to the top of Ken's Crack and Boston.

From the top of Ken's Crack and routes further right, follow trails along the clifftop back towards the Uberfall. These trails will lead you to the open area on top of Ken's Crack and Boston.

Once you've gotten to the tops of Ken's Crack and Boston, you can see the carriage road about 40' below. Next: continue down the streambed to climbers' left and squeeze behind an obvious 5' boulder. Now, have a seat. Scootch left, to a good stance at a giant horizontal tree root - this feature is how you'll know you're in the right place. Scamper down and left on buckets and ledges, to the carriage road.

Location

The Uberfall descent deposits you just to the left of Trashcan Overhang, scant seconds back to your packs.

Protection

You may want to use climbing shoes for the first trip down, but approach shoes are usually fine.

Photos

Joel Ryan
New York, New York
 
Joel Ryan   New York, New York
 
R rated test piece for the grade!

Don't forget to bring long runners, rope drag was HORRIBLE!

4 star classic, don't miss it.

Sep 14, 2016
Dylan Randall
Denville, NJ
Dylan Randall   Denville, NJ
Thanks for the gear beta, Ben. I was looking at a sure-fire grounder before the root Aug 5, 2015
Benjaminadk
San Pedro, California
 
Benjaminadk   San Pedro, California
 
Spoiler Alert!!! Don't read this if you're looking for the flash....The key hold is a root that can be seen from the carriage road. The root offers a good place to shake off the pump and can also be slung to protect the crux. (***) Oct 30, 2014
kenr  
I'm not sure what the BITD route is, but there is an alternate route with more interesting climbing moves and less "obvious" exposure, at no greater difficulty than the one described above here. The top is tricky to find, so it's best to try it out first from the bottom, which is how I'll describe it here ...

Between Squiggles and Susie A, below some fractured rock with vertical blast-hole semi-tubes: Diagonal up right to a bent tree trunk, pass above or below that, diagonal up right some more to a ledge. Walk right on the ledge and step up onto obvious big rock. Turn into the face and climb up four to five feet onto another shelf, then scramble/walk straight a short ways to rejoin the other Uberfall route described above.

Actually there's yet another "descent" route with moves yet more interesting (at slightly greater techical difficulty, with less "obvious" exposure) above the modern toilet, between BB route and Eyesore/Harvard. Again, you'll need to first work out the route from the bottom, and learn what it looks like from the top, before you can use it as a descent route. May 11, 2013
Ben Brotelho
Albany, NY
 
Ben Brotelho   Albany, NY
 
It's a classic. Apr 9, 2013
JSH

 
JSH    
 
Rich, what was the 'BITD' Uberfall route? I know it involved a drop to the earth from a hang, but I can't remember where it was.

I added this as a route not to set the record straight, but to describe the common descent in order to link to it from all the routes in the area. Hopefully to give a few people an idea to walk off every now & then.

And for what it's worth, I've seen a rope over it! Both in the context of protecting a nervous downclimbing adult, and for a kid's TR. Not sure what Santa does ;-) Jan 19, 2012
rgold
Poughkeepsie, NY
rgold   Poughkeepsie, NY
Hmmm. First of all, this is not "easy fifth" class climbing. It is fourth class at most.

Second of all, it is worth mentioning that this is not the way down that gave the Uberfall its name, and that if one does go the other way, which was as far as I know the "regular" way for most climbers BITD when everyone walked back from every climb, there is still a choice of whether or not to perform the actual "uberfall," most climbers choosing not to replicate the original path down. Jan 18, 2012
Kevin Heckeler
Upstate New York
  Easy 5th X
Kevin Heckeler   Upstate New York
  Easy 5th X
Pucker factor 10 if you do it with your eyes closed, under moonlight, naked, with a bologna sandwich crammed somewhere. I'm surprised all the thrill seeking leaders aren't talking this one up. Oct 23, 2011
saxfiend
Decatur, GA
 
saxfiend   Decatur, GA  
 
Probably the best for its grade in the Trapps. I'd backed off it on my first two trips, but on my last Gunks trip, I felt like I was ready. After a confidence-boosting warm-up on Horseman, I onsighted Uberfall free-solo. Unforgettable! Nov 15, 2010
bheller
SL UT
 
bheller   SL UT
 
Certainly in the running for the gunks most classic decent! No fewer than 10 stars! Oct 22, 2010