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Routes in a2. The Uberfall - right

BB Route T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Birch T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Boston T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
CC Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Charie TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a X
Clover T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Crimson Corner T 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c
Crowberry Ridge T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R
DD Route T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Das Wiggles T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a PG13
Dirty Chimney T 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c
Eyesore T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Fitschen's Folly T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Flake, The T,TR 5.1 2 6 II 7 MD 2a PG13
Freebie TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Harvard T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Hudson's Boulder Problem, aka Trashcan Overhang T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Jacob's Ladder T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Junior T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Ken's Crack T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Laurel T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Low Exposure T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Mitty Mouse T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
No-Pro T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Phoebe T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Rhododendron T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Shitty Mitty T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Squiggles T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Squiggles Direct T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Star Route, The T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Susie A T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Trapped Like a Rat T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Uberfall Descent T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c
Unknown aka Ken and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Walter Mitty T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Wriggles T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Yale T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
You're Probably Off Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Type: Trad, TR, 50 ft
FA: Phil Jacobus (1060)
Page Views: 1,565 total, 13/month
Shared By: Tim Schafstall on Apr 9, 2008
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


23 Opinions

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Description

This is another popular top rope, but a very dangerous lead. An excellent climb on TR with fun balancy moves on a nice white face.

Scramble to the top via the Uberfall Descent. Take a left at the top to reach the large flat ledge and boulder above the Squiggles face, or climb Squiggles (5.4).

Climb a smooth ramp up and left to a small overhang (crux), then up the face to the top.

Location

At a ramp just above an obvious spring along the Carriage Road at the right end of the Squiggles face.

Protection

May border on X due to ground fall potential at crux (although crux is fairly low to ground).

Photos

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kenr  
I did it as a top-rope (never seen anyone lead it). Just what I was looking for: lots of moves on small or slopy holds.
I didn't notice an "overhang" until I read the description again afterward -- so I would emphasize that it's a tiny overhang.

I found I could get to the "overhang" either by getting my feet up on the slopy ramp early, then move left -- or have my hands around the ramp and my feet below while moving significantly left, and step up onto the ramp only later. Not sure which way is harder, but getting my feet up early was an unusual memorable move for me - (and for me also instructive) - (but I'd be rather impressed to see someone less than 5ft6in with normal arm-reach do it that way).

Past the overhang, it seems a reasonable route to continue farther left along the ramp and then up to the top. But surely a tougher challenge to go straight up on smaller holds. Jun 17, 2012