Mountain Project Logo

Routes in c. Frog's Head - the Arch

Arc of a Diver T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Arch T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Arch Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Baby T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Billy Shears T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Bloody Bush T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Bloody Mary T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
City Lights T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Crusty Waffles T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Drunkard's Delight T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
Easy Overhang T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Fetus T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Frog's Head T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Jean T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Kama Sutra T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Maria T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Maria Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Maria Redirect T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Morning After T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Night Fall T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Pas de Deux T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Patty Duke T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Precarious Perch T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Rock and Brew T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Rusty Jam T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rusty Trifle T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Scungilli T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Sixish T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Size Matters T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Son of Easy O T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sultana T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Sundown T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Trusty Rifle T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Twisted Sister T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Uncle Rudy T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Wrist T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, 180 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Jim Andress, Jim McCarthy, 1959
Page Views: 8,064 total, 60/month
Shared By: Josh Squire on Dec 14, 2006
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


189 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

The beginning is tricky and scary if this is your limit. The reward is one of the best 5.6 roofs in the Gunks!

Walk a few minutes down the carriage road to the access trail. It is in the same area as Frog's Head, Maria and Sixish. Start at a thin crack that angles up and right and then becomes vertical, about 20' right of Sixish.

P1: Climb the face left of the crack, traverse right (crux), and continue up the face to a big roof. Belay here. 5.8-, 100'.

P2: Angle out right over the roof (5.6), and then angle up left to a tree on the GT Ledge. 5.6, 80'.

From here, you can rappel to the ground with two 60m ropes. With one rope, traverse left on the GT ledge to the Frog's Head bolt line.

P1 and P2 can easily be linked, but be aware that the second will almost certainly face groundfall from the crux due to rope stretch.

P3: Follow the right-facing corner above to the cliff top (5.4). Descend via the Uberfall Descent.


Protection

Takes pretty good gear, but beware that the crux is before you put protection in. A good spotter is considered gear here.
Systematic
  5.8 PG13
Systematic  
  5.8 PG13
Very high quality climb, especially if linking P1+P2. I was able to do it without too much rope drag to the GT ledge. The start is slippery and can be wet after rain, but staying sharp goes a long way in finding protection throughout the crux. The roof is unbelievable for the grade and -- if you want to avoid the classic beginning -- can also be accessed from the right by climbing Morning After P1 (which is not better, but different, in terms of pro). Dec 5, 2015
Sardocius
Old Lyme, CT
  5.8-
Sardocius   Old Lyme, CT
  5.8-
After the pro-less crux at the very beginning (although there seems to be a good landing), I found there to be PLENTY of pro after the initial moves. A truly incredible climb!

Not PG13 in my opinion. Nov 12, 2014
Andrea Cockfield
Valley Forge, Pennsylvania
Andrea Cockfield   Valley Forge, Pennsylvania
An alternate start is to climb Sixish up to the ledge at ~40', and then traverse right about 10 ft to the belay stance directly under the roof of Drunkard's P2.

Great way to enjoy the fabulous 5.6 roof of Drunkard's without the sketch of the first pitch. Oct 8, 2014
Luc-514
Montreal, Quebec
  5.8 PG13
Luc-514   Montreal, Quebec  
  5.8 PG13
Spooky moves at the start, I tried finding those elusive pre-traverse placements but missed them or something.
Tried placing a C3 in the horizontal slot on the traverse, picked too small a cam, flailing there I slotted a small nut into the slot from the right side into a pocket, bomber piece. Sep 22, 2014
SethG  
I guess I'm uniquely situated to talk about this since a few years ago I took the fall and walked away to tell of it...

There is pro above the start-- I got a red C3 in the vertical crack to the left. This is, if I recall correctly, a little higher and to the left of the chalked-up horizontal in which you MAY be able to awkwardly place a purple Metolius, purple C3 or blue Alien.

When I fell this placement to the left kept me off the ground. I was trying to move up above the chalked up greasy crap when I fell. The placement probably would not keep you off the deck if you fell from the next gear stance before you could clip a piece, however.

My current practice is to place this red C3 and skip trying to get anything in the horizontal. If you climb the route the best way you aren't really well situated to place or remove gear from the horizontal anyway, but I've already said too much... Sep 9, 2013
JSH

JSH    
You could do Bloody Mary and yank yer rope over below the Drunkard's roof; that route's second pitch traverses almost all the way over to below Drunkard's. I'd be willing to bet you could start up Sixish and wander over there as well. The face is less steep once you get 40-ish feet up. But you'd be tying up several routes at once, so ... consider that. Sep 9, 2013
Peter Lewis
Bridgton, Maine
Peter Lewis   Bridgton, Maine
Is it possible to do an alternate first pitch to avoid the slipperyness? I really like my ankles the way they are. Sep 9, 2013
Andy Weinmann
Silver Spring, MD
  5.8
Andy Weinmann   Silver Spring, MD
  5.8
Excellent route with a very delicate and balancy crux on P1. I wasn't sure what was ahead for gear so I placed a blue or purple master cam and then moved up to a welcome stance and stopper placements. I wouldn't say PG13 on this...just go climbing and get it done. Apr 9, 2012
steve richert
Taunton MA
steve richert   Taunton MA
One way to help protect the second from rope stretch-induced groundfall is to have the second pull all of the stretch out of the cord and the belayer can take up the slack created. By climbing before the rope regains its elasticity (I believe 30 sec to a minute)any falls will be subject to far less rope stretch. This is the same reason it is advised that when projecting a route and taking repeated falls, it is best to give the rope a bit to recover between burns. I climbed this today and that first bit on lead is spicy! A #1 C3 or possibly a small nut protect that step across then after that, the gear seemed pretty plentiful where needed. This route eats stoppers. Jun 2, 2011
James Schmidt
  5.8-
James Schmidt  
  5.8-
The route need not be PG-13. While a bit reachy to place, a purple metolius 0 can be slotted in the obvious horizontal before committing to the traverse crux and is as solid as it gets. If you find you're not able to reach far enough out to the place the cam, then you haven't stepped right far enough.

Note: Failure to place additional pro before ascending from the traverse risks a ground fall just the same as if the small cam had never been placed in the first place. As fortune would have it, a nut slots perfectly in a finger lock.

The trouble from that position is that the stance is less than ideal, particularly for the leader just breaking into the grade who may find it strenuous to hang out and place gear. But don't be tempted to move on until you've got some good pro. Know that you're still safe at this point, so don't pass it up! You will be relieved with a restful perch as you step up. May 26, 2011
Robbie Flick
Denver, CO
  5.8- PG13
Robbie Flick   Denver, CO
  5.8- PG13
Spectacular route after the initial jitters. Strange, balancy moves on less than vertical with no gear in then leads to stellar, steep climbing with great holds. A great route, but definitely PG13 considering the beginning. Sep 5, 2010
Kalil Oldham
Brooklyn, NY
 
Kalil Oldham   Brooklyn, NY
 
If you come in to the crux from the good holds on the left you can protect it with a small cam. Still not a comfortable fall. Going straight up in to the crux is a little harder. Roof on P2 is ... steep! Great climb! Aug 23, 2009
JSH

JSH    
I hesitate to label this PG-13 - you can get a small cam in to protect the crux, and I've even seen a small nut used to protect the first move rightwards.

That said, you can definitely hurt an ankle; and even if you do get the gear, you'd better have a good belayer if you think you might make use of the piece!

Also, consider your second in linking P1 and P2 - if you run it to the GT ledge and your second falls, they are taking almost if not the exact same fall as the leader - I've seen this cause injury, too. Jul 31, 2009
Joe M
Beckley, wv
  5.8 PG13
Joe M   Beckley, wv
  5.8 PG13
Very fun route! Linked the first two pitches and was well worth it! Jun 2, 2008
Morning After, next climb right, is much better. Three excellent pitches. One of Gunks' best 5.7s. Feb 19, 2008
Risi  
P1 and P2 can be easily linked. Nov 5, 2007
Adam Catalano
Albany, New York
 
Adam Catalano   Albany, New York
 
Making one more move up on small crimps can get your feet above the polished crux and make the two move traverse right a bit easier. Doesn't make crux gear any better, just avoids the polished feet spot. Mar 28, 2007