Avg: 2.9 from 255 votes
|Type:||Trad, 180 ft (55 m), 2 pitches|
|FA:||Jim Andress, Jim McCarthy, 1959|
|Page Views:||10,748 total · 59/month|
|Shared By:||Josh Squire on Dec 14, 2006|
|Admins:||RJ B, Morgan Patterson|
The Mohonk Preserve, GCC, Access Fund, and Petzl have worked to install bolted anchors that eliminate the need to rappel from healthy trees with slings and rings. The primary reason for this action has been to reduce impact on the trees. By monitoring the trees we have direct evidence that this has worked.
Do NOT rappel from trees without in situ anchors. Wrapping ropes around trees is banned by the Mohonk Preserve, and damages the tree even if done only once. The Mohonk Preserve is private land and climbing access is a privilege that can be revoked. It is incumbent upon us as climbers to speak up when we witness environmentally unsound practices – so DO speak up and spread the word.
Currently there are enough rappel stations and walk-off options that a VERY short walk will lead to a bolted station, healthy tree with slings, or down-climb descent. The Gunks Apps, MP, and newer print guidebook each have detailed information that provide Leave No Trace descents.
If you feel there is a situation where there is no good LNT descent, you can contact the GCC or the Climbing Ranger of the Mohonk Preserve directly.
Walk a few minutes down the carriage road to the access trail. It is in the same area as Frog's Head, Maria and Sixish. Start at a thin crack that angles up and right and then becomes vertical, about 20' right of Sixish.
P1: Climb the face left of the crack, traverse right (crux), and continue up the face to a big roof. Belay here. 5.8-, 100'.
P2: Angle out right over the roof (5.6), and then angle up left to a tree on the GT Ledge. 5.6, 80'.
From here, you can rappel to the ground with two 60m ropes. With one rope, traverse left on the GT ledge to the Frog's Head bolt line.
P1 and P2 can easily be linked, but be aware that the second will almost certainly face groundfall from the crux due to rope stretch.
P3: Follow the right-facing corner above to the cliff top (5.4). Descend via the Uberfall Descent.