Type: Trad, 180 ft (55 m), 2 pitches
FA: Jim Andress, Jim McCarthy, 1959
Page Views: 9,884 total · 59/month
Shared By: Josh Squire on Dec 14, 2006
Admins: RJ B

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Tree Preservation and Rappelling Details

Description

The beginning is tricky and scary if this is your limit. The reward is one of the best 5.6 roofs in the Gunks!

Walk a few minutes down the carriage road to the access trail. It is in the same area as Frog's Head, Maria and Sixish. Start at a thin crack that angles up and right and then becomes vertical, about 20' right of Sixish.

P1: Climb the face left of the crack, traverse right (crux), and continue up the face to a big roof. Belay here. 5.8-, 100'.

P2: Angle out right over the roof (5.6), and then angle up left to a tree on the GT Ledge. 5.6, 80'.

From here, you can rappel to the ground with two 60m ropes. With one rope, traverse left on the GT ledge to the Frog's Head bolt line.

P1 and P2 can easily be linked, but be aware that the second will almost certainly face groundfall from the crux due to rope stretch.

P3: Follow the right-facing corner above to the cliff top (5.4). Descend via the Uberfall Descent.

Protection

Takes pretty good gear, but beware that the crux may arrive before you put protection in. A good spotter is considered gear here.

Photos