Type: Trad, TR, 50 ft
FA: Dick Hirschland and Bonnie Prudden (1950)
Page Views: 5,436 total · 40/month
Shared By: coolaid on Sep 24, 2007
Admins: JSH

You & This Route

124 Opinions

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Layback crux above triangle block. Fun thigh/knee jams. Without big cams (#5 or #6) or very small cams (<=#1 c3), it would be difficult to protect.

Descend by walking left to Uberfall Descent


The obvious wide crack just past the Uberfall and right of Ken's Crack.


set of nuts, #5 or #6 for offwidth, some small cams (#1 c3 and smaller) prevent run-out


A few years back somebody fell from the offwidth section, broke a cam (yes...broke) and decked..which resulted in their death. RIP Oct 6, 2007
Ross Purnell
Ross Purnell   Palmyra
Despite the grade, this is a difficult (off width) climb to protect. I don't recommend leading it. Jun 22, 2009
Great Neck, New york
JakeL   Great Neck, New york
I lead this climb as my first trad lead...not a good idea really. The placements are somewhat shady, and the moves are awkward. Wouldnt recommend it as a lead. May 13, 2010
  5.5 PG13
  5.5 PG13
We did it on top rope on July 4th. The boys got to the top and seemed to have fun with it - I did well on the bottom part and made it higher than I thought I would (being just my second outdoor climb) but got stuck a few feet from top. Definitely looking forward to get back and get to the top! :) Jul 20, 2011
AtiMonkey91 Lefland
New Haven, CT
AtiMonkey91 Lefland   New Haven, CT
Led this one on our way out from some of the bigger stuff. Not as much fun as I had hoped, and pretty terrifying at some points. I used a couple of really small cams to protect and wished that I had a huge bomber cam to place the whole way up.
Interestingly, after I led it three of my buddies did it on top rope and all four of us managed to do it four different ways. Some opted for lay-back, some face climbing, and some jamming. It was really neat to see the variation in technique on just 25 feet of rock. May 17, 2012
Simon Thompson
New Paltz, NY
  5.5 PG13
Simon Thompson   New Paltz, NY
  5.5 PG13
This climb could be very dangerous if you're not comfortable climbing above the grade and maybe have some previous off-width experience. I have seen people do the crux a handful of different ways. The crux is well-protected if you get a little creative, however the climbing down lower is more run-out. Oct 30, 2012
At last got the whole thing with no chimney-ing, squirming, or jamming whatsoever. Pretty enjoyable and satisfying that way. Jul 12, 2014
Jay Harrison
  5.4 R
Jay Harrison  
  5.4 R
Spoiler Alert:
One can do the "Z" Move extruding through the offset offwidth, which entails a crazy lot of effort and sketchy, strenuous gear, or...

BITD, this was one of our standard TR setups for teaching newbies. Considering that we were not far graduated from their ranks, we were perhaps unqualified for the position. Anyway, we always squirmed, folded, and mutilated ourselves through that chimney system. On her first-ever climb, one of our acolytes listened carefully to our description of the key moves, then said, "But why not just do this?", reached out left, grabbed a hold we'd never glimpsed, stemmed her feet and suavely stood up. She flicked sprightly up the face left of the heinosity, and skipped to the top. We "experts" were astounded. Nov 6, 2014
Ben Hoste
Tucson, AZ
Ben Hoste   Tucson, AZ
I actually found this quite easy to protect, especially the crux. There is a gap in gear from about 12' up to below the crux, but this section is easy to layback. But below and just below the off width crux there is a ton of pro, I placed probably 5 pieces over ten feet as the placements just got better and better as I got higher. Relatively small cams and small nuts did the trick. It's still a heady lead, but there is no need for anything larger than a #2 camelot. Aug 28, 2016
I'll echo others and say definitely not recommended as a lead unless you're geared up to protect the offwidth with a #5 or #6. Without big gear, the run-out between the first and second piece of protection puts you at risk of a ground fall, though the climbing is easy in this section and you're not likely to fall. There are a few obvious pin scars half-way up the off-width section that you may be able to protect with a very small cam, but the placement wouldn't inspire much confidence. If you must lead it without big cams, make sure to place gear at the top of the triangle as this is the last good piece for a while. May 22, 2017
Somerville MA
freebodydiagram   Somerville MA
I feel like I am taking crazy pills. It's as though we've all forgotten about the invention of small cams. plenty of gear. don't bother with anything larger than a #2 camalot. Jul 10, 2017
Albi Eds
Brooklyn, NY
  5.5 PG13
Albi Eds   Brooklyn, NY
  5.5 PG13
A stiff 5.5. Maybe even 5.5+ for those not accustomed to crack climbing. Plenty of small cracks and pockets for smaller gear. Had a solid #2 placement for the start, a #11 BD hex before the triangle block, a red tricam under the roof and a #1 cam near the top for the end. After figuring out the cruxes would definitely want to try this again. Maybe with bigger cams to get some use with those but certainly not a necessary piece of pro to do this.

Definitely not for a beginner trad leader but a somewhat experienced one to a well experienced trad climber. Jul 24, 2017
adam gong
Santa Monica, CA
adam gong   Santa Monica, CA
Well that was a crazy lead. Ended up making some very strenuous and questionable moves at the OW Crux , would like to TR it and try a few things out. Gear.... my #5 looked a bit dodgy, had small gear protecting the Crux. Wouldn't have liked to have fallen at all Apr 15, 2018