Elevation: 950 ft
GPS: 41.737, -74.188 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 45,713 total · 1,157/month
Shared By: JSH on Mar 4, 2017 with improvements by David K
Admins: JSH
Access Issue: 2020 Peregrine Closure: Wisecrack to Scary Area Details
Access Issue: COVID-19 Closures (was Tree Preservation and Rappelling) Details

Along the cliff

Previously: Uberfall - left side | Next area: Jackie

Description

Major Features: The Uberfall is the first section of rock you encounter as you walk north from the steel bridge that separates the Trapps from the Nears. On most in-season weekend days, a Preserve ranger is parked at the Uberfall, and it's a very social area.

Lest you think the Uberfall is named for the trickle (or, in season, the pouring) of water that descends down the escarpment here, Dick Williams wrote in his 1991 guide: The Uberfall acquired its name, according to Fritz Weissner in a 1960 Appalachia article, from 'the method used in the descent of letting oneself, with outstretched arms, fall across the four-foot gap between the massif and a huge block (Susie A) above the road'. 

In this section, routes start with the Laurel block; Laurel is on the left, the easily-identifiable finger crack that widens to fists higher. Rhododendron is the hands crack on the right side of the block. The Uberfall section ends just past the striking, right-leaning crack of Ken's Crack. The very last route in this section is the corner system of Trapped Like a Rat, which starts with a left-leaning hand crack, just behind the kiosk, the Hans Krauss plaque, and is almost directly across from the vault toilet (the "Uberpooper"). The next section is b. Jackie and friends.

There are two landmarks within the Uberfall: the Gerdie Block is a huge block leaning against the cliff with the routes Herdie Gerdie, Dirty Gerdie, and Nurdie Gerdie (aka Dogs in Heat); on the block's right side is the short crack of Red Cabbage.

Just below the carriage road across from Nosedive is another big block -- the Mental Block. It contains one of the Gunks' true crack lines, Sonja, and several other harder cracks, which face the road.

Approach: Most Uberfall routes start almost directly from the carriage road. A trail runs along the cliff between The Brat and the Gerdie Block.

Descent: Many routes now have bolted anchors, but walking off is still required for other routes. Closer to the very beginning, you'll be able to walk back and scramble down behind the cliff. It's a good idea to familiarize yourself with the Uberfall Descent, which provides the walkoff for the majority of Uberfall routes as well as many beyond it.

Getting There

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39 Total Climbs

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Location: a2. The Uberfall - right Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at The Uberfall - right

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c
 67
Uberfall Descent
Trad
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
 135
Boston
Trad, TR
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 520
Rhododendron
Trad
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 42
Eyesore
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 437
Laurel
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 57
CC Route
Trad
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 489
Ken's Crack
Trad
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
 59
Clover
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 51
Trapped Like a Rat
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
 31
Fitschen's Folly
Trad, TR
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 34
Walter Mitty
Trad
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 58
BB Route
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
 55
Junior
Trad, TR
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
 45
Phoebe
Trad, TR
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
 36
Low Exposure
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Uberfall Descent
 67
Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c Trad
Boston
 135
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13 Trad, TR
Rhododendron
 520
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad
Eyesore
 42
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad
Laurel
 437
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
CC Route
 57
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Ken's Crack
 489
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Clover
 59
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 Trad
Trapped Like a Rat
 51
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Fitschen's Folly
 31
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X Trad, TR
Walter Mitty
 34
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
BB Route
 58
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Junior
 55
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R Trad, TR
Phoebe
 45
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R Trad, TR
Low Exposure
 36
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
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