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Routes in a1. The Uberfall - left

69 T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Apoplexy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Birthday Biscuit Boy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Black Fly T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Brat Direct, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bridal Path T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bunny T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Cordelette Arete T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Coronary T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Crackatoa T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Dirty Gerdie T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Double Chin T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Double Clutch T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Easy Keyhole T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Executioner aka That's Horsesh** T.C., The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Eyebrow T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Fancy Idiot T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Handy Andy T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Heel Hook and Hack-it T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b X
Herdie Gerdie T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Horseman T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Katzenjammer T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Keyhole T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lower Eaves T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Nice 5.9 Climb T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Nice Crack Climb T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
No Picnic T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
No Solution T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Nosedive T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Nurdie Gerdie (aka Dogs in Heat) T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Pony Express T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Red Cabbage T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Red Cabbage Right T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Retribution T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Shit or Go Blind T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Short Job T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Short and Simple T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Sonja T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Stupid Crack T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Suderiferous: 5.8 variation T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Sudoriferous T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c PG13
Susie K. Block, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b A4 X
Trust Jesus T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A4 X
Zoomulator T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a PG13
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad
FA: Rich Ross 1975
Page Views: 2,097 total, 23/month
Shared By: monk on Jun 6, 2010
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


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Description

A really fun straight-up climb on the right side of the Gerdie Block. There are four sections to the climb: a ten-ish move to get established on the face, a nine-ish move on a micronut to get to the crux, a fun crux that may be done statically or dynamically, and easy-ish climbing to the top. I rated this as 10+, but the new Grey Dick has this as 11-.

Location

Start on the right edge of the main face of the Gerdie Block, just right of Dirty Gerdie, and climb straight up the thin crack. The arete is off.

Protection

Take micronuts (mandatory, imho), & a 3.5 camalot (3 will do, but 3.5 is bomber). The crux is well protected.

There is a 9 move before the crux that is protected by a good micronut. This move is harder if short & if the nut blows you may be in ground fall range.

Photos

Sergey Shevelev
San Francisco, CA
 
Sergey Shevelev   San Francisco, CA
 
With Arete on this won't be an 11a (at least at the Gunks) Jun 5, 2016
Jon Po
Mahwah, NJ
  5.11a
Jon Po   Mahwah, NJ
  5.11a
Leading this thing is totally G, IF you're tall enough to get a "worthy" second placement. Nothing bigger than a 2 inch cam is needed. It is really only 11a if you don't use the arete AT ALL! Really just a boulder problem on a rope. Solid V2. Maybe it's contrived but it's definitely fun! Apr 23, 2015
counch  
Whether it is an 11(a) or 10(d) is negligible and depends on who you talk to and how tall you are. It was my first onsight at this level and it lived up to its name as it had me shamelessly grunting and whining the first 30ft. It’s very balancy and the crux involves a mono; had I known this before I was already climbing I would have taped up my finger. After the crux it’s 7ish climbing to the top. Jul 26, 2010