Type: Trad
FA: Rich Ross 1975
Page Views: 2,356 total · 22/month
Shared By: monk on Jun 6, 2010
Admins: JSH

You & This Route

40 Opinions

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A really fun straight-up climb on the right side of the Gerdie Block. There are four sections to the climb: a ten-ish move to get established on the face, a nine-ish move on a micronut to get to the crux, a fun crux that may be done statically or dynamically, and easy-ish climbing to the top. I rated this as 10+, but the new Grey Dick has this as 11-.


Start on the right edge of the main face of the Gerdie Block, just right of Dirty Gerdie, and climb straight up the thin crack. The arete is off.


Take micronuts (mandatory, imho), & a 3.5 camalot (3 will do, but 3.5 is bomber). The crux is well protected.

There is a 9 move before the crux that is protected by a good micronut. This move is harder if short & if the nut blows you may be in ground fall range.


Whether it is an 11(a) or 10(d) is negligible and depends on who you talk to and how tall you are. It was my first onsight at this level and it lived up to its name as it had me shamelessly grunting and whining the first 30ft. It’s very balancy and the crux involves a mono; had I known this before I was already climbing I would have taped up my finger. After the crux it’s 7ish climbing to the top. Jul 26, 2010
Jon Po
Mahwah, NJ
Jon Po   Mahwah, NJ
Leading this thing is totally G, IF you're tall enough to get a "worthy" second placement. Nothing bigger than a 2 inch cam is needed. It is really only 11a if you don't use the arete AT ALL! Really just a boulder problem on a rope. Solid V2. Maybe it's contrived but it's definitely fun! Apr 23, 2015
Sergey Shevelev
San Francisco, CA
Sergey Shevelev   San Francisco, CA
With Arete on this won't be an 11a (at least at the Gunks) Jun 5, 2016