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b. Jackie and friends

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
5.10 Top Rope TR 
A-Gape T 
Ape and Essence T,TR 
Ape Call T 
Badcliff T 
Belly Roll T 
Betty T 
Blackout, The T 
Classic T 
Classy T 
Daydream T 
Dennis T 
Disco Death March T 
Into Thin Hair T,TR 
Jackie T 
Jane T 
Jasmine T 
Matinee T 
Miss Bailey T 
P38 T 
Pebbles TR 
Pink Laurel T 
Raubenheimer Special T 
RMC T 
Roddy T 
Slightly Roddey T,TR 
Stirrup Trouble T 
Unsorted Routes:

b. Jackie and friends 


Photos: Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 41.73755, -74.18693 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 69,525
Administrators: JSH, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: JSH on Feb 13, 2011
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Scott Perkins captures a great shot of me on Matin...

Along the Cliff 

last area: The Uberfall | next area: Frog's Head and The Arch


Description 

Major Features This popular section of cliff has a wide variety of climbing, ranging from the very-easy (Betty) to the classic 5.10s of P38, Stirrup Trouble and Matinee, and beyond.

The end of this section is the major left-facing chimney system of Big Chimney and Miss Bailey. Those routes are just left of the lightning-bolt offwidth crack of Baby.

Approach (picture of trailheads to follow in spring ... ) The trail along the base of these routes starts just a few feet past the vault toilet ("Uberpooper") that marks the end of the Uberfall section. There is a trail up to the middle of this section just past the Black Boulder problem, and the last few routes are also reached by the trail leading to Baby.

Descents The Uberfall Descent finishes in a dead heat with rapping from the clifftop - you can walk off and be back at your packs just as quickly as rapping. On busy weekend days, the Uberfall Descent is preferable - especially for the Betty and Jackie areas, where many intermediate ledges are strewn with small stones, and unsuspecting newer climbers are often below.

There is a set of bolts with chains at the ledge above the first pitches of Jackie and Classic.


All routes, left-to-right 

Cilley Dicken': 5.12-, PG
Stirrup Trouble: 5.10, PG
The Mohel: 5.12-, TR
P38: 5.10, G
Radcliff: 4, G
Badcliff: 5.10-, PG
Dennis: 5.5, G
Belly Roll: 5.4, PG
Roddy: 5.2, PG
Slightly Roddey: 5.10-
Daydream: 5.8, PG
Jackie: 5.5, G (**)
Classic: 5.7, PG (**)
Classy: 5.8 (**)
Pink Laurel: 5.9, G (**)
A-Gape: 5.11-, PG
Ape Call: 5.8, PG-R
Ape and Essence: 5.9+, PG
Jane: 5.8, PG-R
RMC: 5.5-, G
Raubenheimer Special: 5.7-, PG
Betty: 5.3-, G
The Blackout: 5.8, R
Late Show: 5.12-, PG-R
Into Thin Hair: 5.11, X
Matinee: 5.10+, G
Creature Features: 5.11, PG
Big Chimney: 5.5, PG
Miss Bailey: 5.6, PG


27 Total Routes


['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',12],['2 Stars',12],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',8],['5.7',4],['5.8',3],['5.9',3],['5.10',7],['5.11',2],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for b. Jackie and friends:
Betty   5.3 3+ 10 III VD 3a     Trad, 2 pitches, 150'   
Belly Roll   5.4 4a 12 IV VD 3c     Trad, 2 pitches, 120'   
Jackie   5.5 4b 13 IV+ MS 4a     Trad, 2 pitches, 160'   
Dennis   5.5 4b 13 IV+ MS 4a     Trad, 1 pitch, 120'   
RMC   5.5 4b 13 IV+ MS 4a     Trad, 3 pitches, 180'   
Miss Bailey   5.6 4c 14 V S 4b PG13     Trad, 3 pitches, 150'   
Classic   5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b     Trad, 2 pitches, 140'   
Raubenheimer Special   5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b PG13     Trad, 2 pitches, 160'   
Jane   5.7+ 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Classy   5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   
Ape Call   5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c R     Trad, 2 pitches, 110'   
Jasmine   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c PG13     Trad, 2 pitches   
The Blackout   5.9- 5c 17 VI HVS 4c     Trad, 3 pitches, 160'   
Pink Laurel   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 120'   
Ape and Essence   5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a PG13     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 80'   
Slightly Roddey   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 25'   
P38   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Stirrup Trouble   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b R     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   
Matinee   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b     Trad, 2 pitches, 150'   
Disco Death March   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   
Browse More Classics in b. Jackie and friends

Featured Route For b. Jackie and friends
Matinee, P1, 1976 approximately. Photo by (I think) Hardie Truesdale, now a successful landscape photographer. Classic! Flip-flop stoppers (2 on a single cord so that you can flip one over the other as opposing wedges), 2" red swami, home-made leg loops, green Shoenards (stiff like cinder blocks), all ovals, and, of course, painters pants.

Matinee 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b  NY : The Gunks : ... : b. Jackie and friends
Two short pitches that are very different in character.From the Uberfall, walk about 2 minutes down the carriage road, until you see a huge left-facing corner and roof. This is the route. It's also 30-40 feet right of Betty.P1: At any other area the grade of 10d would be just fine. A slightly atypical Gunks climb: delicate underclinging. Climb up a short left-facing corner to the obvious, huge low roof, and undercling left. Continue past the end of the roof and step over to a pilla...[more]   Browse More Classics in NY

Photos of b. Jackie and friends Slideshow Add Photo
Dave Morgan at the Ape Call roof.
Dave Morgan at the Ape Call roof.
In the final alcove on P1 of Pink Laurel
In the final alcove on P1 of Pink Laurel
Classic (right) and Jackie (left).
BETA PHOTO: Classic (right) and Jackie (left).
First pitch of Betty
BETA PHOTO: First pitch of Betty
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