Scott Perkins captures a great shot of me on Matin...
Along the Cliff
This popular section of cliff has a wide variety of climbing, ranging from the very-easy (Betty
) to the classic 5.10s of P38
, Stirrup Trouble
, and beyond.
The end of this section is the major left-facing chimney system of Big Chimney and Miss Bailey
. Those routes are just left of the lightning-bolt offwidth crack of Baby
(picture of trailheads to follow in spring ...
) The trail along the base of these routes starts just a few feet past the vault toilet ("Uberpooper") that marks the end of the Uberfall section. There is a trail up to the middle of this section just past the Black Boulder problem, and the last few routes are also reached by the trail leading to Baby
The Uberfall Descent
finishes in a dead heat with rapping from the clifftop - you can walk off and be back at your packs just as quickly as rapping. On busy weekend days, the Uberfall Descent
is preferable - especially for the Betty
areas, where many intermediate ledges are strewn with small stones, and unsuspecting newer climbers are often below.
There is a set of bolts with chains at the ledge above the first pitches of Jackie
All routes, left-to-right
Cilley Dicken': 5.12-, PG Stirrup Trouble
: 5.10, PG
The Mohel: 5.12-, TR P38
: 5.10, G
Radcliff: 4, G
Badcliff: 5.10-, PG Dennis
: 5.5, G Belly Roll
: 5.4, PG Roddy
: 5.2, PG Slightly Roddey
Daydream: 5.8, PG Jackie
: 5.5, G (**) Classic
: 5.7, PG (**) Classy
: 5.8 (**) Pink Laurel
: 5.9, G (**)
A-Gape: 5.11-, PG Ape Call
: 5.8, PG-R Ape and Essence
: 5.9+, PG Jane
: 5.8, PG-R RMC
: 5.5-, G Raubenheimer Special
: 5.7-, PG Betty
: 5.3-, G The Blackout
: 5.8, R
Late Show: 5.12-, PG-R Into Thin Hair
: 5.11, X Matinee
: 5.10+, G
Creature Features: 5.11, PG
Big Chimney: 5.5, PG Miss Bailey
: 5.6, PG
Weather station 2.8 miles from here
27 Total Routes
['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',12],['2 Stars',12],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
Browse More Classics in b. Jackie and friends
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for b. Jackie and friends:
Betty 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a Trad, 2 pitches, 150'
Belly Roll 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad, 2 pitches, 120'
Jackie 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad, 2 pitches, 160'
Dennis 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad, 1 pitch, 120'
RMC 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad, 3 pitches, 180'
Miss Bailey 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
PG13 Trad, 3 pitches, 150'
Classic 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, 2 pitches, 140'
Jane 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Classy 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Ape Call 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
R Trad, 2 pitches, 110'
Jasmine 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
PG13 Trad, 2 pitches
P38 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
PG13 Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Matinee 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad, 2 pitches, 150'
Featured Route For b. Jackie and friends
Matinee 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b NY
: The Gunks
: ... : b. Jackie and friends
Two short pitches that are very different in character.From the Uberfall, walk about 2 minutes down the carriage road, until you see a huge left-facing corner and roof. This is the route. It's also 30-40 feet right of Betty.P1: At any other area the grade of 10d would be just fine. A slightly atypical Gunks climb: delicate underclinging. Climb up a short left-facing corner to the obvious, huge low roof, and undercling left. Continue past the end of the roof and step over to a pilla...[more] Browse More Classics in NY
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