Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Ted Church, Krist Raubenheimer, 1956. FFA: Jim McCarthy, 1961
Page Views: 11,396 total · 72/month
Shared By: Guy H. on Feb 21, 2006
Admins: JSH

You & This Route

228 Opinions

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This classic route is a left-facing, then a right-facing corner system capped by a crack, immediately right of Retribution.

P1: The climb starts in a left-facing dihedral and works up to a small roof on the left. Clip a fixed pin and work up the short hand crack. The crux is the bulging finger crack above. The finger locks are bomber, so don't forget to enjoy the exposure. Traverse left to a bolt anchor.

Rap with a single rope.


Gear to 2" with extra finger-size cams.
Paul Crowder  
Super, super classic. My memory is, per Ivan's comments on his photos, that the face holds on the right, at the start of the crux, are the way to go, followed by a blind move left into the crack. I'm kinda tall, so that may not work for everyone. Super exciting. Mar 9, 2006
Mike fenice
Boulder, CO
Mike fenice   Boulder, CO
This is a great route that should be on everyone's tick list. Ivan's pictures and route description are spot on. The gear is a bit funky in places but nothing out of the ordinary. The uper crux moves remind me of "Space Invaders". Aug 7, 2006
Morrison, CO
Monomaniac   Morrison, CO  
I enjoyed this route much more than Retirbution. I also found it to be substantially harder. I'm 5'7", and I found my reach was about 3" too short to use the face holds out right below the bulge. Climbing the corner directly was by far the hardest section of the route, and harder than the crux of Rertribution.

I was a bit unnerved by the lack of gear below the first roof, but the rest protects well. The moves going over the first roof are great. The splitter-crack-bulge at the top was really fun too. For me this was 'rattly fingers' size, so I wasn't yarding on bomber locks, but I was easily able to lieback. The new foothold created by the broken hold was key (great heel-holk-rockover). .5 Camalots were perfect for this crack.
Oct 16, 2007
J. Albers
J. Albers   Colorado
I probably have no business commenting on the grade of a classic Gunks route, but just don't expect this to be a gimme 10b. Anywhere else and this route gets some brand of 10+. Nonetheless, this is a stellar route; sustained, technical, powerful, and amazing. As Mono says, the gear before the first roof is a little tricky, though you can get a good sized RP to help your head out (its a good piece). Also, my brother has some pretty big hands (we call him Meat Paw) and he couldn't get any locker finger jams in the crack over the last roof...seemed like a lieback situation until you are established over the roof and you can sink a good hand jam. IMHO, much better than 'Retribution' to the left. Aug 12, 2010

That's too bad about Meat Paws there - I get such sinker fingers in there that I worry about falling on them! Aug 13, 2010
Nick W
Orford, NH
Nick W   Orford, NH
Great gear the whole way. You can sew up the crux. I never felt unsafe and I don't like runouts on sketchy gear. Sustained but always a rest in-between moves. Only issue is the zoo that is the uberfall staring up at you while you're climbing......once you isolate your mind from that, it is a pleasure to climb!! Apr 9, 2012
RyderS Stroud
Dali, Yunnan Province, CN
RyderS Stroud   Dali, Yunnan Province, CN
Great route. I found it more interesting and varied than Retribution. The top crux sequence has fun movement (layback transitioning into straight on jams). The finishing crux crack takes inspirationally bomber gear, too. Getting a nice stance just before the crux can be tricky if you are shorter, though, otherwise those face holds are excellent rests. Also, the start is no give away, either: a bit thin, but a few balancy moves will get you to a sidewalk of a ledge. Past the old pin, the great gear abounds... Apr 17, 2014
A true Gunks classic, which in my opinion is a better (though easier) climb than Retribution.

Back in the day (mid-1970s) this was essentially a very early sport climb which was then rated 5.9. It had an abundance of (old) pins at reasonable spacing including ones that nicely protected the crux sections. Although one could could place additional gear (stoppers/hexes, if I remember correctly), it wasn't really necessary. One late day in the late '70s I found myself alone at the cliffs and bored, so I decided to free solo Nosedive (which I had climbed many times before). When I got to the the beginning of the finger crack near the top, I don't know what possessed me but on a whim I tugged on the old pin protecting the crux with my fingers. Maybe it looked slightly out of position to me; I'm not sure why I stopped to fiddle with it. In any case, I found that it moved rather easily in my hand. I wiggled it a bit more and it popped out! I shoved it into the pocket of my painter's pants and finished the climb. I can't imagine how many climbers must have clipped and trusted that worthless piece of metal, myself included. I still have the pin somewhere in my attic. Sep 10, 2018