Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Norton Smithe and Doug Kerr
Page Views: 7,188 total · 53/month
Shared By: Tim Schafstall on Apr 2, 2008
Admins: JSH

You & This Route

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Access Issue: 2019 Peregrine Closure Details
Access Issue: Tree Preservation and Rappeling Details


Climb the crack and corner to the first overhang, step left, make a hard high step, then head up to another overhang (crux) to a ledge with a bolted anchor.


Ten feet right of Nosedive at a crack below 2 large roofs and a right-facing corner system about 60 feet up.


Standard Gunks rack.


gblauer Blauer
Wayne, PA
gblauer Blauer   Wayne, PA
Interesting climb. THe first roof is easy to step around, the second roof requires some thoughtful moves to the ledge. Not hard, you just have to find your way. Apr 5, 2010

I climbed this once years ago, and remember it as awkward and hard-hard-hard for 5.5. I climbed it again yesterday, and - wow, what a hysterically fun, overlooked 5.5!

The top overhang isn't straightforward, but with a little chimneying technique, it's killer fun.

For a less-confident second, be careful to place what will basically be a top anchor *above* the chimney, so that they won't worry about a swing backwards into space - the rap tree isn't ideal as a top anchor. Jun 21, 2010
Tom D
New York
Tom D   New York
Good climb. The second roof is a bit tricky. Watch out for flakes when placing gear on the second roof. I found myself using a hand jam to get passed the second roof. This route is also tricky to clean if your second doesn't climb it. Oh yes I almost forgot a massive spider lives under the first roof. I almost had a heart attack. Jun 11, 2011
Agree with the comments above. Since this route is not real popular, I wasn't expecting much ... then it turned out to be a satisfying lead with interesting moves before the crux, and felt well-protected.

If you bring along followers who are not strong at 5.5 and not so gung-ho to try a tricky challenge, they might end up unhappy. If you fail to give them good directional protection in the top crux, and they swing out into space if they fail, they might be very unhappy that they followed your choices. Jun 9, 2012
joel katon
Brooklyn, New York
joel katon   Brooklyn, New York
wet around the roofs (it rained 2 days before) probably the crux move awkward move which makes it feel harder than a 5.5 youtube.com/watch?v=awCdkRz… Oct 23, 2012
A.wilk Wilk
Olympia, WA
A.wilk Wilk   Olympia, WA
Very fun and worth a shot if its open. The first roof is pretty easy to get around but the second one gives you a good challenge. Well protected too so you can't get much better. May 21, 2013
This is one of the best 5.5's in the Gunks, better than Jackie, and it rivals Horseman. I wouldn't say it's a beginner 5.5 -- the gear at the second roof is hard to place because the rock isn't great quality and you're in an awkward stance. Jun 18, 2013
Dan Africk
Brooklyn, New York
Dan Africk   Brooklyn, New York
Great Route! Easy climbing but a fun crux move (the roof), and well protected with a solid Gunks rack. I protected the roof with a large nut on a double-length runner, the rock was too irregular for a good cam placement. Sep 23, 2014
Tom Sherman
Bristol, RI
Tom Sherman   Bristol, RI
The 'questionable' rap tree has been upgraded with a two-bolt rap anchor.

I was a little iffy with gear at the crux. I think I jammed in a high #3 on a double length. Sep 21, 2015
Des Moines, IA (WTF)
Medic741   Des Moines, IA (WTF)
a #3 protects the crux well Sep 22, 2015
David K
New Paltz, NY
David K   New Paltz, NY
Certainly no move of this is physically harder than 5.6, but I think it would be extraordinarily hard for a 5.6 leader to figure out the crux moves onsight. This is one of those climbs that makes me wonder if there shouldn't be a separate grading system for onsights. The difficulty for a leader at the grade won't be performing the moves, but finding the moves.

If you think the #3 protects the crux well, you're either okay with falling on a double-length extended cam that will likely twist out of place, or you're okay with falling on a very tipped out #3. I went with the double-length extended cam option, but I would have appreciated a #4, which would be a much more textbook placement, not so deep in the crack, better aligned with the direction of pull.

Awesome, fun climb. Jun 19, 2018
Cobra Wrestlr
Mary land
Cobra Wrestlr   Mary land
I think this climb is amazing 5.5. Sustained, thoughtful, super fun moves, great crack use, plenty of gear, I love it. It is usually open too, I don't know why, I think some people dont like/have a hard time with roofs. Let them love bunny.

I lead this years ago as an aspiring 5.6 gunks climber and had a hard time with it and couldn't believe the grade. I led it the other day and had to still think a bit about the 2nd rooof but pulled it easily.

The Gunks doesn't rate one move wonder climbs that well. Because the whole climb is stellar cruiser fun climbing and then that one last move over the roof is 5.7... so it all averages out to 5.5 - for example, Middle Earth.

I threw my buddy on this who is a 5.5 aspiring leader at gunks and he breezed through this. He did the roof move differently than me and my partner... Fun climb. Sep 3, 2018
petr07 Lindahl  
More disjointed than Horseman in terms of sustained 5.5-ish climbing, but the start, the first roof, and especially the second roof, make this climb very worthwhile. Protecting the second roof is a bit thought provoking given that you may end up in an awkward position (though that's what makes this route fun), but I thought there were several options. Nov 12, 2018