Type: Trad
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,812 total · 16/month
Shared By: Dana Bartlett on Oct 14, 2009
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


30 Opinions

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Description

Climb a right-facing corner to a big ledge. Traverse up and out left to the hanging corner of the big roof (crux) and move around to the face. After you have become established on the face, the most sensible option is to go up and slightly right to the Horseman anchor.

Location

At the right end of the long, prominent roof system of the Uberfall, about 20 feet or so left of Horseman.

Protection

Standard 'Gunks rack.

Photos

I did this for the first time yesterday. It's a really good climb that deserves more traffic. It's definitely not 9-. I thought it was very solid for 5.9 and harder than its neighbor Apoplexy and others such as Pink Laurel. It is also fairly committing in a number of places. You're basically into the business as soon as you start and have a good bit of air and exposure after one move. It has big moves out an overhang. A hard committing move off of an iffy hold and a great deal of solid 5.8 - 5.9 face climbing after you think that you are done with the work. It's also a pretty long pitch, about 120 feet or so, in which you are doing solid climbing the whole way except for the last 30 feet or so. There is also very little chalk on it after the first few moves so there is actually some route finding involved as it not just connect the chalk dots. Highly recommended for anyone seeking a bit of challenge, a bit of adventure and a lot of fun .. but NOT a good route for the aspiring 5.9 leader. Aug 14, 2011
gblauer Blauer
Wayne, PA
gblauer Blauer   Wayne, PA
Enjoyable climb. I think the crux comes after the overhang; in the form of a thin face with no gear. Aug 10, 2014
bridge
Brooklyn, NY
  5.9
bridge   Brooklyn, NY
  5.9
A bit of a hidden gem, hiding in plain sight. This climb combines a committing roof, thin moves above gear, and some actual route-finding without the typical 'chalk highway.'

Highly recommend going straight to the top of the cliff, trending a bit right. Bailing all the way right to the Horseman anchor (as described above and in the Gunks app) misses some quality climbing. Jul 1, 2018
Dana Bartlett
CO
  5.9-
Dana Bartlett   CO
  5.9-
As per the previous comment; it may (?) also be possible to go left and do the crux of Bridal Path - this would add some interesting climbing. Jul 1, 2018