Type: Trad, TR, 50 ft (15 m)
GPS: 41.737, -74.18943
FA: unknown
Page Views: 77 total · 58/month
Shared By: Gunkiemike on Oct 22, 2025 · Updates
Admins: Morgan Patterson, M Santisi, chris vultaggio

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

The route is parallel to, and about 10 feet right of, the 5.9 route. It follows the thin right-arching crack to the small overhang. A balancey move here leads to a rest in the alcove before you step out to the left onto the arete. End with a sweet mantle. Variation - moving straight into the arete adds a second crux, but you miss some welcome gear opportunities in the alcove to your right. Bigger variation - after the first big move, step right and climb the thin face to the alcove's ledge, avoiding the key hold(s) of the normal line as well as the small tree on your right and the big tree at the top. A bit contrived but it's a good movement puzzle, 9+ or maybe light 10.

Location Suggest change

Start about 10 feet right of the 5.9's start. Make a big layback-y move up at a rather phallic-looking piece of rock. Step left to the thin right-arching crack.

Protection Suggest change

Standard rack with small gear needed for the thin arching crack. The best TR anchor is cracks on the wall behind the large ledge above the route. 50-60 feet of static rope is needed. There's a small tree about 8 feet above the top of the route, but it's in bad shape and isn't really adequate for an achor on its own.

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