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Routes in a1. The Uberfall - left

69 T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Apoplexy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Birthday Biscuit Boy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Black Fly T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Brat Direct, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bridal Path T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bunny T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Cordelette Arete T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Coronary T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Crackatoa T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Dirty Gerdie T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Double Chin T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Double Clutch T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Easy Keyhole T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Executioner aka That's Horsesh** T.C., The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Eyebrow T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Fancy Idiot T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Handy Andy T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Heel Hook and Hack-it T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b X
Herdie Gerdie T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Horseman T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Katzenjammer T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Keyhole T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lower Eaves T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Nice 5.9 Climb T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Nice Crack Climb T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
No Picnic T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
No Solution T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Nosedive T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Nurdie Gerdie (aka Dogs in Heat) T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Pony Express T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Red Cabbage T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Red Cabbage Right T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Retribution T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Shit or Go Blind T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Short Job T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Short and Simple T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Sonja T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Stupid Crack T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Suderiferous: 5.8 variation T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Sudoriferous T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c PG13
Susie K. Block, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b A4 X
Trust Jesus T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A4 X
Zoomulator T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a PG13
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad
FA: John D'Arcy, Bruce Miller and Rich Kast, 1975
Page Views: 1,287 total · 12/month
Shared By: Dana Bartlett on Jul 18, 2009
Admins: JSH

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Access Issue: 2018 Peregrine closure: Wisecrack to Scary Area Details
Access Issue: Seasonal Route Closure Details

Description

Climb the large, blocky left-facing corner with a smooth face to its left (No Picnic), to the top to reach a stance that is a bit below and slightly right of an obvious right-facing corner. Go past the corner, then climb straight up the face over a bulge (crux) to a ledge. Diagonal up and left to a small ledge and a pine tree with a fixed anchor.

The crux is strenuous in nature, but it is very brief and the protection is decent. If someone is looking for a route for a first 5.8 lead, this would be a reasonable choice.

Location

Left of the Dirty Gerdie block, at the top of the hill.

Protection

Protection is adequate.

Photos

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gblauer Blauer
Wayne, PA
gblauer Blauer   Wayne, PA
Did this last Sunday. It was actually a very fun climb. It's soft for an 8, but, the gear can be a little tricky as some of the rock is not great. That said, it's mellow and happy with a brief crux. May 2, 2011
Adam Marcus
Salt Lake City, UT
 
Adam Marcus   Salt Lake City, UT
 
I did this route by accident last Saturday, meaning to climb the regular 5.2 route. Whoops! I missed the belay station and just kept going straight up, then trending left at the Norton Smithe pin mentioned in the Grey Dick route description. The 5.8 moves felt a lot easier than many 5.6 and 5.7 routes I climbed that weekend, but I ran it out rather than stop to place pro. Sep 2, 2014
Eriks Rozners
Binghamton, NY
  5.7+
Eriks Rozners   Binghamton, NY
  5.7+
Excellent route that keeps your attention with various and exciting climbing. The starting 5.2 corner is interesting. Turning the right facing corner felt like such a classical Gunks move. There is excellent protection before one commits to pulling through the bulges. I wanted a bit more pro in the middle of the crux (felt run out at the end) but I was not looking too hard for it, just kept going through the steep section.

While going through the bulges I might have gone a bit too far left following good holds. The moves felt much softer than I expected for 5.8. Not sure if I was on the right line or slightly off route. Either way, it was great and enjoyable climbing. May 1, 2017

More About Suderiferous: 5.8 variation

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