Type: Trad
FA: John D'Arcy, Bruce Miller and Rich Kast, 1975
Page Views: 1,402 total · 12/month
Shared By: Dana Bartlett on Jul 18, 2009
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


9 Opinions

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Description

Climb the large, blocky left-facing corner with a smooth face to its left (No Picnic), to the top to reach a stance that is a bit below and slightly right of an obvious right-facing corner. Go past the corner, then climb straight up the face over a bulge (crux) to a ledge. Diagonal up and left to a small ledge and a pine tree with a fixed anchor.

The crux is strenuous in nature, but it is very brief and the protection is decent. If someone is looking for a route for a first 5.8 lead, this would be a reasonable choice.

Location

Left of the Dirty Gerdie block, at the top of the hill.

Protection

Protection is adequate.

Photos

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gblauer Blauer
Wayne, PA
gblauer Blauer   Wayne, PA
Did this last Sunday. It was actually a very fun climb. It's soft for an 8, but, the gear can be a little tricky as some of the rock is not great. That said, it's mellow and happy with a brief crux. May 2, 2011
Adam Marcus
Salt Lake City, UT
 
Adam Marcus   Salt Lake City, UT
 
I did this route by accident last Saturday, meaning to climb the regular 5.2 route. Whoops! I missed the belay station and just kept going straight up, then trending left at the Norton Smithe pin mentioned in the Grey Dick route description. The 5.8 moves felt a lot easier than many 5.6 and 5.7 routes I climbed that weekend, but I ran it out rather than stop to place pro. Sep 2, 2014
Eriks Rozners
Binghamton, NY
  5.7+
Eriks Rozners   Binghamton, NY
  5.7+
Excellent route that keeps your attention with various and exciting climbing. The starting 5.2 corner is interesting. Turning the right facing corner felt like such a classical Gunks move. There is excellent protection before one commits to pulling through the bulges. I wanted a bit more pro in the middle of the crux (felt run out at the end) but I was not looking too hard for it, just kept going through the steep section.

While going through the bulges I might have gone a bit too far left following good holds. The moves felt much softer than I expected for 5.8. Not sure if I was on the right line or slightly off route. Either way, it was great and enjoyable climbing. May 1, 2017