Type: Trad
FA: John D'Arcy, Bruce Miller and Rich Kast, 1975
Page Views: 1,402 total · 12/month
Shared By: Dana Bartlett on Jul 18, 2009
Admins: JSH

You & This Route

9 Opinions

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Climb the large, blocky left-facing corner with a smooth face to its left (No Picnic), to the top to reach a stance that is a bit below and slightly right of an obvious right-facing corner. Go past the corner, then climb straight up the face over a bulge (crux) to a ledge. Diagonal up and left to a small ledge and a pine tree with a fixed anchor.

The crux is strenuous in nature, but it is very brief and the protection is decent. If someone is looking for a route for a first 5.8 lead, this would be a reasonable choice.


Left of the Dirty Gerdie block, at the top of the hill.


Protection is adequate.


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gblauer Blauer
Wayne, PA
gblauer Blauer   Wayne, PA
Did this last Sunday. It was actually a very fun climb. It's soft for an 8, but, the gear can be a little tricky as some of the rock is not great. That said, it's mellow and happy with a brief crux. May 2, 2011
Adam Marcus
Salt Lake City, UT
Adam Marcus   Salt Lake City, UT
I did this route by accident last Saturday, meaning to climb the regular 5.2 route. Whoops! I missed the belay station and just kept going straight up, then trending left at the Norton Smithe pin mentioned in the Grey Dick route description. The 5.8 moves felt a lot easier than many 5.6 and 5.7 routes I climbed that weekend, but I ran it out rather than stop to place pro. Sep 2, 2014
Eriks Rozners
Binghamton, NY
Eriks Rozners   Binghamton, NY
Excellent route that keeps your attention with various and exciting climbing. The starting 5.2 corner is interesting. Turning the right facing corner felt like such a classical Gunks move. There is excellent protection before one commits to pulling through the bulges. I wanted a bit more pro in the middle of the crux (felt run out at the end) but I was not looking too hard for it, just kept going through the steep section.

While going through the bulges I might have gone a bit too far left following good holds. The moves felt much softer than I expected for 5.8. Not sure if I was on the right line or slightly off route. Either way, it was great and enjoyable climbing. May 1, 2017