Type: Trad, 130 ft
FA: Gary Hemming and Claude Suhl (1959)
Page Views: 1,735 total · 13/month
Shared By: Tim Schafstall on Apr 9, 2008
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


37 Opinions

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Description

This is actually an OK route, and there's almost never anyone on it.

Climb the crack (crux) to a horizontal and stance, then continue up the face via the path of least resistance (straight, actually; slightly runout, but fairly easy) to a horizontal just below some overhangs. Traverse right a few feet to a flake system (optional belay). Climb the flake to another horizontal, then traverse right along a crack about 15 feet to a left-facing corner topped by another overhang. Climb the crack, passing the overhang and up the face to the top.

Descend using the Uberfall Descent, to climber's right.

Location

In the Uberfall area, at a 10-foot high crack about 20 feet right of Nosedive.

Protection

Standard Gunks Rack.

Photos

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One of many routes that the Swain guide gets totally wrong. Follow those directions and you'll be in scary 5.9 territory at the long overhang. Jul 11, 2010
JSH

JSH    
Mike, I climbed this route once a few years ago, but I these directions seemed reasonable for what I remember - basically, climb up below the big roof, then keep heading right and up by the line of least resistance. Can you provide some supplemental text ... ?

Edit add - just reclimbed this yesterday, and these directions are right ... Jul 12, 2010
gblauer Blauer
Wayne, PA
gblauer Blauer   Wayne, PA
I like this climb. It's wandery and fun, enough gear to keep you safe. Fun little corner to climb at the end. Rap off the horseman tree. May 29, 2014
Eric Lutz
  5.5 PG13
Eric Lutz  
  5.5 PG13
Finally did this one yesterday. Definitely worth doing once when nothing else is open Nov 3, 2015
Skip Thompson
  5.6 PG13
Skip Thompson  
  5.6 PG13
This is a highly enjoyable Gunks 5.6 face climb, with the added bonus of being a route-finding challenge. Half the fun is trying to figure out the line.
Apr 15, 2016
Eriks Rozners
Binghamton, NY
  5.6
Eriks Rozners   Binghamton, NY
  5.6
This route deserves more stars and traffic than it gets. It is a hidden gem in the busy Uberfall. Interesting opening moves are followed by nice face climbing with some route-finding challenge. Enjoyable traverse and small but interesting overhang add a nice finish. Finding good protection was another puzzle to solve along the way, but I do not feel it deserves PG13. Oct 10, 2016
David Kerkeslager
New Paltz, NY
  5.6 PG13
David Kerkeslager   New Paltz, NY
  5.6 PG13
This route felt on the easier end of the grade to me. Generally a very nice route, though. It has a lot of different kinds of climbing in one pitch. Aug 24, 2018