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Routes in a1. The Uberfall - left

69 T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Apoplexy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Birthday Biscuit Boy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Black Fly T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Brat Direct, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bridal Path T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bunny T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Cordelette Arete T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Coronary T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Crackatoa T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Dirty Gerdie T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Double Chin T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Double Clutch T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Easy Keyhole T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Executioner aka That's Horsesh** T.C., The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Eyebrow T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Fancy Idiot T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Handy Andy T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Heel Hook and Hack-it T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b X
Herdie Gerdie T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Horseman T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Katzenjammer T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Keyhole T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lower Eaves T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Nice 5.9 Climb T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Nice Crack Climb T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
No Picnic T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
No Solution T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Nosedive T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Nurdie Gerdie (aka Dogs in Heat) T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Pony Express T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Red Cabbage T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Red Cabbage Right T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Retribution T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Shit or Go Blind T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Short Job T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Short and Simple T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Sonja T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Stupid Crack T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Suderiferous: 5.8 variation T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Sudoriferous T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c PG13
Susie K. Block, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b A4 X
Trust Jesus T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A4 X
Zoomulator T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a PG13
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 130 ft
FA: Gary Hemming and Claude Suhl (1959)
Page Views: 1,547 total, 13/month
Shared By: Tim Schafstall on Apr 9, 2008
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


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Description

This is actually an OK route, and there's almost never anyone on it.

Climb the crack (crux) to a horizontal and stance, then continue up the face via the path of least resistance (straight, actually; slightly runout, but fairly easy) to a horizontal just below some overhangs. Traverse right a few feet to a flake system (optional belay). Climb the flake to another horizontal, then traverse right along a crack about 15 feet to a left-facing corner topped by another overhang. Climb the crack, passing the overhang and up the face to the top.

Descend using the Uberfall Descent, to climber's right.

Location

In the Uberfall area, at a 10-foot high crack about 20 feet right of Nosedive.

Protection

Standard Gunks Rack.

Photos

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Eriks Rozners
Binghamton, NY
  5.6
Eriks Rozners   Binghamton, NY
  5.6
This route deserves more stars and traffic than it gets. It is a hidden gem in the busy Uberfall. Interesting opening moves are followed by nice face climbing with some route-finding challenge. Enjoyable traverse and small but interesting overhang add a nice finish. Finding good protection was another puzzle to solve along the way, but I do not feel it deserves PG13. Oct 10, 2016
Skip Thompson
  5.6 PG13
Skip Thompson  
  5.6 PG13
This is a highly enjoyable Gunks 5.6 face climb, with the added bonus of being a route-finding challenge. Half the fun is trying to figure out the line.
Apr 15, 2016
Eric Lutz  
 
Finally did this one yesterday. Definitely worth doing once when nothing else is open Nov 3, 2015
gblauer Blauer
Wayne, PA
gblauer Blauer   Wayne, PA
I like this climb. It's wandery and fun, enough gear to keep you safe. Fun little corner to climb at the end. Rap off the horseman tree. May 29, 2014
JSH

JSH    
Mike, I climbed this route once a few years ago, but I these directions seemed reasonable for what I remember - basically, climb up below the big roof, then keep heading right and up by the line of least resistance. Can you provide some supplemental text ... ?

Edit add - just reclimbed this yesterday, and these directions are right ... Jul 12, 2010
One of many routes that the Swain guide gets totally wrong. Follow those directions and you'll be in scary 5.9 territory at the long overhang. Jul 11, 2010