Avg: 1.3 from 9 votes
|Type:||Trad, 120 ft (36 m), 2 pitches|
|FA:||John D'Arcy, Bruce Miller, and Rich Kast, 1975|
|Page Views:||2,057 total · 22/month|
|Shared By:||dragons on Aug 21, 2013|
The Mohonk Preserve, GCC, Access Fund, and Petzl have worked to install bolted anchors that eliminate the need to rappel from healthy trees with slings and rings. The primary reason for this action has been to reduce impact on the trees. By monitoring the trees we have direct evidence that this has worked.
Do NOT rappel from trees without in situ anchors. Wrapping ropes around trees is banned by the Mohonk Preserve, and damages the tree even if done only once. The Mohonk Preserve is private land and climbing access is a privilege that can be revoked. It is incumbent upon us as climbers to speak up when we witness environmentally unsound practices – so DO speak up and spread the word.
Currently there are enough rappel stations and walk-off options that a VERY short walk will lead to a bolted station, healthy tree with slings, or down-climb descent. The Gunks Apps, MP, and newer print guidebook each have detailed information that provide Leave No Trace descents.
If you feel there is a situation where there is no good LNT descent, you can contact the GCC or the Climbing Ranger of the Mohonk Preserve directly.
Pitch 2: At the wall behind your tree anchor, you'll see a broken corner. Currently there's a tree which gets in your face as you climb this. Go up the corner about 20 feet until you meet a ledge. Walk/crawl left about 10 feet until the ledge meets a corner. Turn (climber's) left around the corner, look up and right - you'll see a fairly clean, white ramp. Follow the ramp up. From here it looks like you could easily go up left to top out. But the climbing looked more fun going right, which is what I did: walk up to a right-facing corner, step up onto a lichen-covered rock with a crack in it (good holds) and use this stance to step right onto a cleaner face. Good opportunities for pro around here. Then just step up on smallish feet and hand holds to the ledge and a tree belay.
Dick Williams gives P2 a 5.2 PG and says it's not worth doing, but I liked the climbing better than P1, except for the fact that it was very dirty and filled with cobwebs.
From the start of P2, it's reported that you can scramble down a gully which is used to set up a toprope for Dirty Gerdie. From the top of P2, follow the climbers trail at climber's left which takes you back to the carriage road.