Type: Trad, 120 ft, 2 pitches
FA: John D'Arcy, Bruce Miller, and Rich Kast, 1975
Page Views: 1,296 total · 20/month
Shared By: dragons on Aug 21, 2013
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


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Description

Pitch 1: Climb the face just next to the huge left-facing corner (feel free to use the corner blocks if it helps), past a huge roof. Top out above the roof and traverse right about 20 feet to a tree which you can use as your anchor. Dick Williams gives this pitch 5.1 PG, I'd grade it more like 5.3! There's a little crux about halfway up, and near the top you kind of have to haul yourself up onto a flake. But maybe I missed something obvious.

Pitch 2: At the wall behind your tree anchor, you'll see a broken corner. Currently there's a tree which gets in your face as you climb this. Go up the corner about 20 feet until you meet a ledge. Walk/crawl left about 10 feet until the ledge meets a corner. Turn (climber's) left around the corner, look up and right - you'll see a fairly clean, white ramp. Follow the ramp up. From here it looks like you could easily go up left to top out. But the climbing looked more fun going right, which is what I did: walk up to a right-facing corner, step up onto a lichen-covered rock with a crack in it (good holds) and use this stance to step right onto a cleaner face. Good opportunities for pro around here. Then just step up on smallish feet and hand holds to the ledge and a tree belay.

Dick Williams gives P2 a 5.2 PG and says it's not worth doing, but I liked the climbing better than P1, except for the fact that it was very dirty and filled with cobwebs.

Location

Uphill and left from the Gerdie block. 20 feet right of Shit or Go Blind there's a huge left-facing corner. Start there.

From the start of P2, it's reported that you can scramble down a gully which is used to set up a toprope for Dirty Gerdie. From the top of P2, follow the climbers trail at climber's left which takes you back to the carriage road.

Protection

Standard Gunks rack.

Photos

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