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Routes in a1. The Uberfall - left

69 T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Apoplexy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Birthday Biscuit Boy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Black Fly T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Brat Direct, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bridal Path T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bunny T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Cordelette Arete T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Coronary T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Crackatoa T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Dirty Gerdie T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Double Chin T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Double Clutch T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Easy Keyhole T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Executioner aka That's Horsesh** T.C., The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Eyebrow T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Fancy Idiot T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Handy Andy T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Heel Hook and Hack-it T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b X
Herdie Gerdie T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Horseman T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Katzenjammer T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Keyhole T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lower Eaves T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Nice 5.9 Climb T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Nice Crack Climb T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
No Picnic T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
No Solution T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Nosedive T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Nurdie Gerdie (aka Dogs in Heat) T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Pony Express T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Red Cabbage T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Red Cabbage Right T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Retribution T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Shit or Go Blind T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Short Job T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Short and Simple T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Sonja T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Stupid Crack T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Suderiferous: 5.8 variation T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Sudoriferous T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c PG13
Susie K. Block, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b A4 X
Trust Jesus T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A4 X
Zoomulator T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a PG13
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 120 ft, 2 pitches
FA: John D'Arcy, Bruce Miller, and Rich Kast, 1975
Page Views: 1,037 total, 20/month
Shared By: dragons on Aug 21, 2013
Admins: JSH

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Description

Pitch 1: Climb the face just next to the huge left-facing corner (feel free to use the corner blocks if it helps), past a huge roof. Top out above the roof and traverse right about 20 feet to a tree which you can use as your anchor. Dick Williams gives this pitch 5.1 PG, I'd grade it more like 5.3! There's a little crux about halfway up, and near the top you kind of have to haul yourself up onto a flake. But maybe I missed something obvious.

Pitch 2: At the wall behind your tree anchor, you'll see a broken corner. Currently there's a tree which gets in your face as you climb this. Go up the corner about 20 feet until you meet a ledge. Walk/crawl left about 10 feet until the ledge meets a corner. Turn (climber's) left around the corner, look up and right - you'll see a fairly clean, white ramp. Follow the ramp up. From here it looks like you could easily go up left to top out. But the climbing looked more fun going right, which is what I did: walk up to a right-facing corner, step up onto a lichen-covered rock with a crack in it (good holds) and use this stance to step right onto a cleaner face. Good opportunities for pro around here. Then just step up on smallish feet and hand holds to the ledge and a tree belay.

Dick Williams gives P2 a 5.2 PG and says it's not worth doing, but I liked the climbing better than P1, except for the fact that it was very dirty and filled with cobwebs.

Location

Uphill and left from the Gerdie block. 20 feet right of Shit or Go Blind there's a huge left-facing corner. Start there.

From the start of P2, it's reported that you can scramble down a gully which is used to set up a toprope for Dirty Gerdie. From the top of P2, follow the climbers trail at climber's left which takes you back to the carriage road.

Protection

Standard Gunks rack.

Photos

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