Type: Trad, 75 ft
FA: Art Gran, Peter Himot, 1958. FFA: Jim McCarthy, 1961
Page Views: 10,808 total · 69/month
Shared By: Guy H. on Feb 21, 2006
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


255 Opinions

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Description

This is the companion route to the left of Nosedive. I thought that this route was harder than Nosedive, but once you figure out the move it is not too bad.

P1: Follow a right-facing dihedral to the left of Nosedive to a small roof. The gear leading up to the roof and past the crux can be tricky. Once you make the hard move at the roof, the climbing eases off. Head right at the top, and join Nosedive at the 2-bolt anchor. Rap with one rope.

Protection

Gear to 2.5"
J. Nickel  
 
A great route! 5.10b, three stars, PG gear (a reasonably safe onsight lead). Not as sustained as Nosedive but with a harder crux. Jun 5, 2006
Monomaniac
Morrison, CO
 
Monomaniac   Morrison, CO  
 
I found this route to be much easier and less sustained than Nosedive, probably because I'm "short". There's basically one hard crank on a rounded crimp pulling over the roof. The rest is much easier. Great rock, but its getting pretty polished. Oct 16, 2007
BenCooper  
 
I found that my key piece of pro at the roof ate up the key undercling; it was a choice between a solid piece or good hold. Great route. Oct 12, 2008
JASON A.  
 
the undercling isn't "key" there is a solid meat hook on the arete. this leaves the undercling open for a perfect yellow alien. Apr 27, 2009
chewtoynj
NJ
 
chewtoynj   NJ
 
a .75 camalot fits nicely below the roof. It looks weird, but works well, leaving the undercling accessable and protected. my second gunks 5.10 onsight. May 28, 2010
Tyrel Fuller
Denver, CO
5.10
Tyrel Fuller   Denver, CO
5.10
Today I watched Tommy Caldwell cruise it in completely soaking wet conditions.

Extra fun fact: He climbed it in approach shoes and no chalk. May 19, 2011
I love this route. Super fun, sustained and great pro. Somehow this route gets rated a PG but Bunny to the left gets rated a G. I actually think it's the opposite. I remember being able to place as much pro as anyone could ever want on Retribution but I remember the pro on Bunny being kind of sketchy. Nov 15, 2011
Simon Thompson
New Paltz, NY
  5.10a/b
Simon Thompson   New Paltz, NY
  5.10a/b
Placed an odd-looking .75 behind the "rest jug" before the crux moves instead of placing pro in the finger pocket. Doing so made the crux much much easier. Above the crux the are a few good rests and then a tougher move(maybe 5.9 or so) to a good jug.

Also fell from a few feet above the .75 a few weeks ago and it held fine. Nov 9, 2012
crackatoa Spiesbach
Boulder,Co
crackatoa Spiesbach   Boulder,Co
I dunno if I botch the sequence on nosedive or if that climb is just really hard on a short under 5'6" person. Retro feels pretty straightforward to me..You can do the crux about 3-4 different ways and I've seen people make it look substantially harder than 10.b and also much easier...

Also this climb gets super greasy on hot humid days so be carful. I found out the hard way but I was happy to know that the .75 cam in the funky slot holds just fine! Mar 14, 2016
Scott Gilliam
Raleigh, NC
 
Scott Gilliam   Raleigh, NC
 
The .75 Camalot looks pretty crappy to me. Glad it holds. I found a 2.0 hard stem Friend fits much more nicely. Sep 29, 2016
David Kerkeslager
New Paltz, NY
David Kerkeslager   New Paltz, NY
Not a good climb for after the rain because the water flows right down the crack. Nov 19, 2017
Andy Casler
Plymouth, NH
 
Andy Casler   Plymouth, NH
 
In the roof, a weird looking No.1 C4 fits just to the left of the weird looking 0.75 (both would hold a fall). This leaves a useful undercling pocket available to pull the crux move. Mar 4, 2018
artem Vasilyev
New York, NY
  5.10b/c
artem Vasilyev   New York, NY
  5.10b/c
Once you figure out the beta, it's a (stout) 5.10. Before you figure out the beta, it feels impossible. Jul 30, 2018