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Routes in a1. The Uberfall - left
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69 T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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Apoplexy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Birthday Biscuit Boy T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Black Fly T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Brat, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Bridal Path T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Bunny T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Cordelette Arete T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c |
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Coronary T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Crackatoa T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Dirty Gerdie T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Double Chin T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Double Clutch T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Easy Keyhole T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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Executioner aka That's Horsesh** T.C., The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Eyebrow T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 |
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Fancy Idiot T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Handy Andy T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Heel Hook and Hack-it T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b X |
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Herdie Gerdie T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Horseman T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Katzenjammer T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Keyhole T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Lower Eaves T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Nice 5.9 Climb T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Nice Crack Climb T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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No Picnic T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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No Solution T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Nosedive T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Nurdie Gerdie (aka Dogs in Heat) T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Pony Express T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Red Cabbage T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Red Cabbage Right T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Retribution T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Shit or Go Blind T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Short Job T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Short and Simple T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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Sonja T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Stupid Crack T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Suderiferous: 5.8 variation T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Sudoriferous T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c PG13 |
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Susie K. Block, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b A4 X |
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Trust Jesus T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A4 X |
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Zoomulator T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a PG13 |
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| Type: | Trad, 60 ft |
| FA: | Doug Kerr, 1951 |
| Page Views: | 2,777 total · 30/month |
| Shared By: | doligo on Nov 22, 2010 |
| Admins: | JSH |
Your Star Rating:
Access Issue: 2018 Peregrine closure: Wisecrack to Scary Area
Details
2018 PEREGRINE FALCON CLIMBING CLOSURE
Due to nesting peregrine falcons, the section of the Trapps cliff between and including the routes Wisecrack (5.6) and Scary Area (5.12) is temporarily closed to rock climbing. This closure is in effect as of March 19, 2018.
The section of Bonticou Crag known as THE SUNBOWL is also temporarily closed to rock climbing. This closure is in effect as of February 23, 2018.
Boulderering Closure: The section of Undercliff Road between and including the boulder problems Atlas (V10) and Yikes (V9) is temporarily closed to bouldering.
Help us to protect the fledging Peregrine Falcons. We ask that you:
• DO NOT use ascent trails or rappel routes that access this area.
• DO NOT use the trails at the top of the cliff in the closure area.
• DO NOT use the section of the cliff base climbers trail between these routes.
• PLEASE refrain from excessive noise making while in the vicinity of this closure.
Visit: mohonkpreserve.org/climb
Due to nesting peregrine falcons, the section of the Trapps cliff between and including the routes Wisecrack (5.6) and Scary Area (5.12) is temporarily closed to rock climbing. This closure is in effect as of March 19, 2018.
The section of Bonticou Crag known as THE SUNBOWL is also temporarily closed to rock climbing. This closure is in effect as of February 23, 2018.
Boulderering Closure: The section of Undercliff Road between and including the boulder problems Atlas (V10) and Yikes (V9) is temporarily closed to bouldering.
Help us to protect the fledging Peregrine Falcons. We ask that you:
• DO NOT use ascent trails or rappel routes that access this area.
• DO NOT use the trails at the top of the cliff in the closure area.
• DO NOT use the section of the cliff base climbers trail between these routes.
• PLEASE refrain from excessive noise making while in the vicinity of this closure.
Visit: mohonkpreserve.org/climb
Description
I have always been curious about this short climb - except for an occasional boulderer, I had never seen anyone even top-roping this climb. This past weekend, my partner and I found out why.
P1: Climb an obvious 4" left-leaning crack onto the ledge, follow the chimney/corner to the overhang and exit right. The crux is mid-crack at the chockstone. Grab the chockstone and chicken-wing your way up to good holds. Grey Dick rates it at 5.7 - it's probably a 5.7 for someone over 6', for they could grab the grimper on the right easily, for anyone shorter, the OW feels at least a 5.9. Hence there is the ambiguous 5.7+ grade. If anyone more experienced in OW, can enlighten me what grade this should go as an off-width, I'd be happy to change the grade. Wear old jeans/carhartts that you won't regret cutting off in case your knee gets stuck.
Variations:
There are two hand and finger cracks to the left of the OW, they supposedly go at 5.9 and 5.9+. These two cracks are also very popular bouldering problems.
Walk off left to descend.
P1: Climb an obvious 4" left-leaning crack onto the ledge, follow the chimney/corner to the overhang and exit right. The crux is mid-crack at the chockstone. Grab the chockstone and chicken-wing your way up to good holds. Grey Dick rates it at 5.7 - it's probably a 5.7 for someone over 6', for they could grab the grimper on the right easily, for anyone shorter, the OW feels at least a 5.9. Hence there is the ambiguous 5.7+ grade. If anyone more experienced in OW, can enlighten me what grade this should go as an off-width, I'd be happy to change the grade. Wear old jeans/carhartts that you won't regret cutting off in case your knee gets stuck.
Variations:
There are two hand and finger cracks to the left of the OW, they supposedly go at 5.9 and 5.9+. These two cracks are also very popular bouldering problems.
Walk off left to descend.
Philadelphia, PA
New York, NY
Definitely would recommend taping up for the variations as there are a couple jams. Jan 9, 2016
Boulder,Co