Type: | Trad, 60 ft (18 m) |
FA: | Doug Kerr, 1951 |
Page Views: | 4,800 total · 27/month |
Shared By: | doligo on Nov 22, 2010 |
Admins: | Morgan Patterson, M Santisi, chris vultaggio |
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Description
I have always been curious about this short climb - except for an occasional boulderer, I had never seen anyone even top-roping this climb. This past weekend, my partner and I found out why.
P1: Climb an obvious 4" left-leaning crack onto the ledge, follow the chimney/corner to the overhang and exit right. The crux is mid-crack at the chockstone. Grab the chockstone and chicken-wing your way up to good holds. Grey Dick rates it at 5.7 - it's probably a 5.7 for someone over 6', for they could grab the grimper on the right easily, for anyone shorter, the OW feels at least a 5.9. Hence there is the ambiguous 5.7+ grade. If anyone more experienced in OW, can enlighten me what grade this should go as an off-width, I'd be happy to change the grade. Wear old jeans/carhartts that you won't regret cutting off in case your knee gets stuck.
Variations:
There are two hand and finger cracks to the left of the OW, they supposedly go at 5.9 and 5.9+. These two cracks are also very popular bouldering problems.
Walk off left to descend.
P1: Climb an obvious 4" left-leaning crack onto the ledge, follow the chimney/corner to the overhang and exit right. The crux is mid-crack at the chockstone. Grab the chockstone and chicken-wing your way up to good holds. Grey Dick rates it at 5.7 - it's probably a 5.7 for someone over 6', for they could grab the grimper on the right easily, for anyone shorter, the OW feels at least a 5.9. Hence there is the ambiguous 5.7+ grade. If anyone more experienced in OW, can enlighten me what grade this should go as an off-width, I'd be happy to change the grade. Wear old jeans/carhartts that you won't regret cutting off in case your knee gets stuck.
Variations:
There are two hand and finger cracks to the left of the OW, they supposedly go at 5.9 and 5.9+. These two cracks are also very popular bouldering problems.
Walk off left to descend.
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