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Routes in a1. The Uberfall - left

69 T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Apoplexy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Birthday Biscuit Boy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Black Fly T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Brat Direct, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bridal Path T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bunny T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Cordelette Arete T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Coronary T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Crackatoa T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Dirty Gerdie T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Double Chin T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Double Clutch T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Easy Keyhole T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Executioner aka That's Horsesh** T.C., The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Eyebrow T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Fancy Idiot T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Handy Andy T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Heel Hook and Hack-it T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b X
Herdie Gerdie T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Horseman T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Katzenjammer T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Keyhole T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lower Eaves T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Nice 5.9 Climb T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Nice Crack Climb T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
No Picnic T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
No Solution T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Nosedive T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Nurdie Gerdie (aka Dogs in Heat) T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Pony Express T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Red Cabbage T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Red Cabbage Right T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Retribution T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Shit or Go Blind T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Short Job T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Short and Simple T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Sonja T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Stupid Crack T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Suderiferous: 5.8 variation T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Sudoriferous T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c PG13
Susie K. Block, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b A4 X
Trust Jesus T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A4 X
Zoomulator T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a PG13
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Ted Church, Krist Raubenheimer, 1957
Page Views: 755 total, 24/month
Shared By: jdrago on May 18, 2015
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


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Description

If you happen upon the Uberfall on a day when there is nobody on Horsemen, Apoplexy or Coronary give this a go (Use your discretion).

Start as you would for Horseman and climb to the start of the corner. Traverse right (instead of left) and make balancey moves into the first short right-facing Apoplexy corner. From here keep working up and right following path of least resistance until you reach two dirty, vertical parallel cracks. Up the cracks and left into another right-facing corner system with a finger-size crack. End at the bolts over Coronary.

Location

Start as you would for Horseman

Protection

Standard rack. Bring long runners and this is quite an enjoyable climb.

Photos

- No Photos -
MojoMonkey  
 
I traversed early in the Horseman corner where there was a good little ledge for feet. I actually thought the corner near the end was tougher than the traverse, but perhaps that was because at ~6' I could reach from good hold to good hold on the traverse?

And there still are times when nobody is on Horseman, Apoplexy or Coronary. Nov 6, 2017
Isara
  5.8 PG13
Isara  
  5.8 PG13
Balancy and committing middle. Accidentally, went up the dihedral for Apoplexy instead of the dihedral for Coronary. I'm naming this variation "Ponyplexy." May 27, 2016
jdrago
Rosendale, NY
 
jdrago   Rosendale, NY
 
Totally right. Should have proof read that. I meant the start of the corner. Yes if it's busy you aren't going to do it, but are you suggesting not to climb it because too many climbers are around? Use your judgement. Don't do it if you are going to interfere with another party who is there first. Just like every other climb anywhere else? High Exposure is an old route with high climber traffic and it interferes with Directissima and Doubleissima unless climbers on those routes rap off and don't finish the last pitch on High E. May 22, 2015
You don't go to the to "top of the corner" on Horseman. It's barely a bodylength up the corner as I recall (and per the guidebook photo).

This is an old route that's hard to justify with today's climber traffic being as heavy as it is. May 22, 2015