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Routes in a1. The Uberfall - left

69 T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Apoplexy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Birthday Biscuit Boy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Black Fly T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Brat Direct, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bridal Path T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bunny T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Cordelette Arete T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Coronary T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Crackatoa T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Dirty Gerdie T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Double Chin T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Double Clutch T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Easy Keyhole T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Executioner aka That's Horsesh** T.C., The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Eyebrow T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Fancy Idiot T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Handy Andy T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Heel Hook and Hack-it T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b X
Herdie Gerdie T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Horseman T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Katzenjammer T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Keyhole T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lower Eaves T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Nice 5.9 Climb T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Nice Crack Climb T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
No Picnic T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
No Solution T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Nosedive T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Nurdie Gerdie (aka Dogs in Heat) T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Pony Express T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Red Cabbage T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Red Cabbage Right T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Retribution T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Shit or Go Blind T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Short Job T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Short and Simple T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Sonja T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Stupid Crack T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Suderiferous: 5.8 variation T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Sudoriferous T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c PG13
Susie K. Block, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b A4 X
Trust Jesus T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A4 X
Zoomulator T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a PG13
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad
FA: Hans Kraus, Bonnie Prudden 1950
Page Views: 5,598 total, 54/month
Shared By: Mark Roth on May 20, 2009
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


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Description

The crux is probably near the bottom, but the overhang was the scene of great suffering when I was about 10. I had crawled deep into the recesses of the overhang to avoid the massive exposure! My impatient father (he was actually extremely patient) decided he'd waited long enough and started hauling on the rope. He would have succeeded in pulling me up, as he often did, except for the fact that the rope ran through the 3 inch slot at the edge of the roof. He pulled, I smashed my head, I cried out in pain and then in fear, and he pulled some more... eventually I made it around. Years later this became a fun part of our easy solo circuit.

Anyway, climb this if you dare. Exit the overhang on the left (looks like you could also exit right). There is a 2nd pitch that continues up to the right if you must summit...

Location

This is the hand crack/offwidth/chimney/slab/roof just right of the Katzenjammer face. This is right at the beginning left side of the Trapps. When the cliff leaves the carriage road look up to the left, thar she blows.

Wlk off left after either pitch.

Protection

Standard rack. One ancient fixed pin. The guide book calls it G, but the gear may not help. If you fell, you'd probably slip into the crack and get stuck. If soloing or sewing it up, you probably don't want to fall.
Devendra More  
5.3
Spicy first 2 moves. Pro is good. 5.3 IMO. May 10, 2016
J. Serpico
Saratoga County, NY
  5.2
J. Serpico   Saratoga County, NY
  5.2
No one would accuse me of being a bold leader or a good climber. I do agree this is in spots questionably 5.2, that it's polished, etc. But it's the Gunks on the carriage road. All the climbs are questionable for the grade, many have been revised over the years, and all the climbs on the carriage road are polished. Regardless, this is definitely around 5.2 and it's got plenty of gear. I couldn't comment on this before now because I hadn't climbed it in 14 years, but it's still a 5.2 for the Gunks. Mar 3, 2016
My first ever trad lead years ago, I had TR'd it previously. It's stiff at 5.2 but in line with other Gunks climbs at this grade. May 13, 2015
Kurtz
 
Kurtz  
 
I'm 99% sure we climbed Easy Keyhole but the beta doesn't quite line up with what we experienced. I climbed all the way up to the top of a pedestal with a massive boulder perched upon it (like a golf ball on a tee). Building an anchor was the crux of the climb. There was some very old webbing under the boulder that would have been very awkward to use. To create an anchor I had to downclimb the backside (sketchy) and climb up the main wall a ways to build a gear anchor. Then climb back to the top of the pedestal and belay. Because of very limited space at the top of the pedestal, I had to immediately lower the seconds off the back to safe ground. We walked off right. It was fun, interesting climbing but not for a <5.4 leader. The Grey Dick lists a second pitch as 5.1. One of us is confused.

Reclimbed 11/2016. I was confused. Last time I neglected to "exit left to the ledges and tree". This time we also did the second pitch and it's worthwhile. Oct 13, 2014
First move.... Not so Easy! But on the whole, a fun climb! May 5, 2014
Do not climb if you are not comfortable pulling 5.4 moves off the deck with serious ankle breaking potential in the event of a fall. Blocky ledges below would not allow for a soft landing. I really do not recommend this for anyone who isn't comfortable leading at least 5.4. Nov 14, 2013
BrianRH
Jersey City, NJ
BrianRH   Jersey City, NJ
A poor choice for an introduction-to-climbing route since a beginner will likely have a lot of trouble with the bouldery start. Like Laurel, it makes me wonder about grading climbs where the crux is the first move off the ground. Apr 30, 2012
Hana
  5.4
Hana  
  5.4
This was my second lead in the gunks and I found that crux a bit nerve wracking considering the consequence of a fall (jagged rock/ledge), though an easy climb I didn't think the protection on it was great for the first 40 feet for a G rating... a 5 cam would have been helpful, an interesting climb for the grade though.
As to the administrator, i don't think the crux issue is necessarily about the climbing skill set, just a heady move for a novice trad leader. Jul 9, 2011
JSH

JSH    
The move really isn't very hard; it's just not obvious, and also might call for some skills that the average 5.2 climber hasn't gained yet. Apr 11, 2011
Kevin Heckeler
Upstate New York
  5.5
Kevin Heckeler   Upstate New York
  5.5
5.2 my ass. Heaven help the novice lead climber looking to do the "easy" 5.2 climb at the Gunks! Apr 10, 2011
Mike McLean  
 
There was just a long discussion about this at Gunks.com. The locals maintain that it's a 5.2 because the 'move' is right off the ground (although that's not quite true as per say - falling on that move will deposit you in the crack or the boulders underneath).

Once that move is done though, you must admit that it's not all that hard.

(As a comparison, the opening move on Minty feels about the same and no one really questions Minty's rating at 5.3) Aug 15, 2010
sunder
Alsip, Il
  5.6
sunder   Alsip, Il
  5.6
More like a 5.6 Aug 15, 2010
GMBurns
  5.4
GMBurns  
  5.4
A bit harder than 5.2 because of the polished start. Has some fun moves for the grade, but overall, kind of boring. May 28, 2010