Type: Trad
FA: Hans Kraus, Bonnie Prudden 1950
Page Views: 8,265 total · 52/month
Shared By: Mark Roth on May 20, 2009 · Updates
Admins: Morgan Patterson, RJ B

You & This Route


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Description

A low down crux in the corner can be well protected with a #6 - but otherwise offers some challenging moves, up till the climbing eases off.

Exit left at the overhang if you're only doing P1 - else move right at the old pins, to a ledge that's level with the Black Fly tree. P2 continues up the orange corner, and gains a massive (awesome!) pillar with a manky rap station. Don't think that's the end - though! Continue across the far side (bold move!) and up into the trees to belay. The view here spans from the nears to the traps, and is both unique and breath taking!

Location

This is the hand crack/offwidth/chimney/slab/roof just right of the Katzenjammer face. This is right at the beginning left side of the Trapps. When the cliff leaves the carriage road look up to the left, thar she blows.

Walk off left after either pitch.

Protection

Standard rack. One ancient fixed pin. The guide book calls it G, but the gear may not help. If you fell, you'd probably slip into the crack and get stuck. If soloing or sewing it up, you probably don't want to fall.

Photos