Type: Trad
FA: Hans Kraus, Bonnie Prudden 1950
Page Views: 6,179 total · 53/month
Shared By: Mark Roth on May 20, 2009
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


107 Opinions

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Description

The crux is probably near the bottom, but the overhang was the scene of great suffering when I was about 10. I had crawled deep into the recesses of the overhang to avoid the massive exposure! My impatient father (he was actually extremely patient) decided he'd waited long enough and started hauling on the rope. He would have succeeded in pulling me up, as he often did, except for the fact that the rope ran through the 3 inch slot at the edge of the roof. He pulled, I smashed my head, I cried out in pain and then in fear, and he pulled some more... eventually I made it around. Years later this became a fun part of our easy solo circuit.

Anyway, climb this if you dare. Exit the overhang on the left (looks like you could also exit right). There is a 2nd pitch that continues up to the right if you must summit...

Location

This is the hand crack/offwidth/chimney/slab/roof just right of the Katzenjammer face. This is right at the beginning left side of the Trapps. When the cliff leaves the carriage road look up to the left, thar she blows.

Wlk off left after either pitch.

Protection

Standard rack. One ancient fixed pin. The guide book calls it G, but the gear may not help. If you fell, you'd probably slip into the crack and get stuck. If soloing or sewing it up, you probably don't want to fall.

Photos

GMBurns
  5.4
GMBurns  
  5.4
A bit harder than 5.2 because of the polished start. Has some fun moves for the grade, but overall, kind of boring. May 28, 2010
sunder
Alsip, Il
  5.6
sunder   Alsip, Il
  5.6
More like a 5.6 Aug 15, 2010
Mike McLean  
 
There was just a long discussion about this at Gunks.com. The locals maintain that it's a 5.2 because the 'move' is right off the ground (although that's not quite true as per say - falling on that move will deposit you in the crack or the boulders underneath).

Once that move is done though, you must admit that it's not all that hard.

(As a comparison, the opening move on Minty feels about the same and no one really questions Minty's rating at 5.3) Aug 15, 2010
Kevin Heckeler
Las Vegas, NV
  5.5
Kevin Heckeler   Las Vegas, NV
  5.5
5.2 my ass. Heaven help the novice lead climber looking to do the "easy" 5.2 climb at the Gunks! Apr 10, 2011
JSH

JSH    
The move really isn't very hard; it's just not obvious, and also might call for some skills that the average 5.2 climber hasn't gained yet. Apr 11, 2011
Hana
  5.4
Hana  
  5.4
This was my second lead in the gunks and I found that crux a bit nerve wracking considering the consequence of a fall (jagged rock/ledge), though an easy climb I didn't think the protection on it was great for the first 40 feet for a G rating... a 5 cam would have been helpful, an interesting climb for the grade though.
As to the administrator, i don't think the crux issue is necessarily about the climbing skill set, just a heady move for a novice trad leader. Jul 9, 2011
BrianRH
Jersey City, NJ
BrianRH   Jersey City, NJ
A poor choice for an introduction-to-climbing route since a beginner will likely have a lot of trouble with the bouldery start. Like Laurel, it makes me wonder about grading climbs where the crux is the first move off the ground. Apr 30, 2012
Steamy Pits  
 
Do not climb if you are not comfortable pulling 5.4 moves off the deck with serious ankle breaking potential in the event of a fall. Blocky ledges below would not allow for a soft landing. I really do not recommend this for anyone who isn't comfortable leading at least 5.4. Nov 14, 2013
First move.... Not so Easy! But on the whole, a fun climb! May 5, 2014
Kurtz
Fort Collins, CO
 
Kurtz   Fort Collins, CO
 
I'm 99% sure we climbed Easy Keyhole but the beta doesn't quite line up with what we experienced. I climbed all the way up to the top of a pedestal with a massive boulder perched upon it (like a golf ball on a tee). Building an anchor was the crux of the climb. There was some very old webbing under the boulder that would have been very awkward to use. To create an anchor I had to downclimb the backside (sketchy) and climb up the main wall a ways to build a gear anchor. Then climb back to the top of the pedestal and belay. Because of very limited space at the top of the pedestal, I had to immediately lower the seconds off the back to safe ground. We walked off right. It was fun, interesting climbing but not for a <5.4 leader. The Grey Dick lists a second pitch as 5.1. One of us is confused.

Reclimbed 11/2016. I was confused. Last time I neglected to "exit left to the ledges and tree". This time we also did the second pitch and it's worthwhile. Oct 13, 2014
My first ever trad lead years ago, I had TR'd it previously. It's stiff at 5.2 but in line with other Gunks climbs at this grade. May 13, 2015
J. Serpico
Saratoga County, NY
  5.2
J. Serpico   Saratoga County, NY
  5.2
No one would accuse me of being a bold leader or a good climber. I do agree this is in spots questionably 5.2, that it's polished, etc. But it's the Gunks on the carriage road. All the climbs are questionable for the grade, many have been revised over the years, and all the climbs on the carriage road are polished. Regardless, this is definitely around 5.2 and it's got plenty of gear. I couldn't comment on this before now because I hadn't climbed it in 14 years, but it's still a 5.2 for the Gunks. Mar 3, 2016
Devendra More  
5.3
Spicy first 2 moves. Pro is good. 5.3 IMO. May 10, 2016
wivanoff
Northeast, USA
wivanoff   Northeast, USA
First, I agree with most that this route is not for the new leader expecting easy 5.2/5.3

Since P1 has been reviewed to death, these comments are for pitch 2 which was described as "There is a 2nd pitch that continues up to the right if you must summit..."

P2 was an adventure unlike any route we had done before at the Gunks. More so for me because I climbed in the dark with a broken headlamp.

Description: Near the top of P1, instead of going left to the belay tree, move up and right around the large perched block (old pins). There is a belay at the base of an inside corner with a wide crack capped by a block. This belay can be also reached by walking right from the normal P1 belay tree. It's in the "gap" on the way to/from the "Black Fly" belay tree - but that's not as interesting.

From P2 belay, climb the inside corner and wide crack to the block (more old pins), work right around the block and then up between two pinnacles to a wide stance on the left (larger) pinnacle. This larger pinnacle is capped by a huge triangular shaped boulder with multiple old slings underneath. (I think, if possible, it might be good to belay here) My partner climbed up and over the triangular block. I think up and over, straddling the apex, is where the route actually goes. In the dark, I edged around the left side of the boulder.

On the far side of the triangular boulder, there is a "diving board" where you "step across" over the chasm to the main wall (Yeah, sure. Try this in the dark). There was not much gear between the wide stance on the pinnacle and the final section up the main wall. I think two ropes would make it easier to protect your second as an unclipped rope would go directly from the belay to the climber. Once on the main wall, move left a bit, then up easy and well protected rock to a belay in the trees.

Descent: Walk up and left to a climber's trail which is followed left for some distance and then down to the the carriage road. Oct 7, 2018