Elevation: 942 ft
GPS: 41.737, -74.189 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 152,533 total · 1,330/month
Shared By: JSH on Feb 13, 2011 with improvements by Bob Johnson
Admins: JSH
Access Issue: Tree Preservation and Rappelling Details

Along the Cliff

Description

Major Features: The Uberfall is the first section of rock you encounter as you walk north from the steel bridge that separates the Trapps from the Nears. On most in-season weekend days, a Preserve ranger is parked at the Uberfall, and it's a very social area.

Lest you think the Uberfall is named for the trickle (or, in season, the pouring) of water that descends down the escarpment here, Dick Williams wrote in his 1991 guide: The Uberfall acquired its name, according to Fritz Weissner in a 1960 Appalachia article, from 'the method used in the descent of letting oneself, with outstretched arms, fall across the four-foot gap between the massif and a huge block (Susie A) above the road'. 

For our purposes, routes in this section include the beginning of the cliff -- the big whitish face you pass closest to, just where the carriage road takes a slight turn, is Katzenjammer. You'll pass the Gerdie block, walk under the giant Horseman roof. The two routes on the face right of the Horseman roof are the last in this section, Apoplexy and Coronary, just before the Laurel block.

Just below the carriage road across from Nosedive is another big block -- the Mental Block. It contains one of the Gunks' true crack lines, Sonja, and several other harder cracks, which face the road.  Those routes are listed under "Unsorted" in the route list here.

Approach: Most Uberfall routes start almost directly from the carriage road. A trail runs along the cliff between The Brat and the Gerdie Block.

Descents Many routes now have bolted anchors but walking off is still required for other routes. Closer to the very beginning, you'll be able to walk back and scramble down behind the cliff. It's a good idea to familiarize yourself with the Uberfall Descent, which provides the walkoff for the majority of Uberfall routes as well as many beyond it.

47 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at The Uberfall - left

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 383
Bunny
Trad
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 790
Horseman
Trad
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 167
No Picnic
Trad
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 246
Double Chin
Trad
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 164
Black Fly
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 109
Nice Crack Climb
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 71
The Brat
Trad
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
 87
Shit or Go Blind
Trad
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 122
Dirty Gerdie
Trad
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
 92
Red Cabbage
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 323
Apoplexy
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 58
Double Clutch
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 256
Nosedive
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 282
Retribution
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
 99
Coronary
Trad, TR
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Bunny
 383
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad
Horseman
 790
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad
No Picnic
 167
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad
Double Chin
 246
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad
Black Fly
 164
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad
Nice Crack Climb
 109
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
The Brat
 71
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Shit or Go Blind
 87
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c Trad
Dirty Gerdie
 122
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Red Cabbage
 92
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c Trad
Apoplexy
 323
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Double Clutch
 58
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
Nosedive
 256
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Retribution
 282
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Coronary
 99
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R Trad, TR
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