The Uberfall - left Rock Climbing
|GPS:||41.737, -74.189 Google Map · Climbing Area Map|
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|Shared By:||JSH on Feb 13, 2011|
The Mohonk Preserve, GCC, Access Fund, and Petzl have worked to install bolted anchors that eliminate the need to rappel from healthy trees with slings and rings. The primary reason for this action has been to reduce impact on the trees. By monitoring the trees we have direct evidence that this has worked.
Do NOT rappel from trees without in situ anchors. Wrapping ropes around trees is banned by the Mohonk Preserve, and damages the tree even if done only once. The Mohonk Preserve is private land and climbing access is a privilege that can be revoked. It is incumbent upon us as climbers to speak up when we witness environmentally unsound practices – so DO speak up and spread the word.
Currently there are enough rappel stations and walk-off options that a VERY short walk will lead to a bolted station, healthy tree with slings, or down-climb descent. The Gunks Apps, MP, and newer print guidebook each have detailed information that provide Leave No Trace descents.
If you feel there is a situation where there is no good LNT descent, you can contact the GCC or the Climbing Ranger of the Mohonk Preserve directly.
Lest you think the Uberfall is named for the trickle (or, in season, the pouring) of water that descends down the escarpment here, Dick Williams wrote in his 1991 guide: The Uberfall acquired its name, according to Fritz Weissner in a 1960 Appalachia article, from 'the method used in the descent of letting oneself, with outstretched arms, fall across the four-foot gap between the massif and a huge block (Susie A) above the road'.
For our purposes, routes in this section include the beginning of the cliff -- the big whitish face you pass closest to, just where the carriage road takes a slight turn, is Katzenjammer. You'll pass the Gerdie block, walk under the giant Horseman roof. The two routes on the face right of the Horseman roof are the last in this section, Apoplexy and Coronary, just before the Laurel block.
Just below the carriage road across from Nosedive is another big block -- the Mental Block. It contains one of the Gunks' true crack lines, Sonja, and several other harder cracks, which face the road. Those routes are listed under "Unsorted" in the route list here.
Approach: Most Uberfall routes start almost directly from the carriage road. A trail runs along the cliff between The Brat and the Gerdie Block.
Descents Many routes now have bolted anchors but walking off is still required for other routes. Closer to the very beginning, you'll be able to walk back and scramble down behind the cliff. It's a good idea to familiarize yourself with the Uberfall Descent, which provides the walkoff for the majority of Uberfall routes as well as many beyond it.
Classic Climbing Routes at The Uberfall - left
Days w Precip