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a1. The Uberfall - left
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
69 T 
Apoplexy T 
Birthday Biscuit Boy T 
Black Fly T 
Brat Direct, The T 
Bridal Path T 
Bunny T 
Cordelette Arete T 
Coronary T,TR 
Dirty Gerdie T 
Double Chin T 
Double Clutch T 
Easy Keyhole T 
Executioner aka That's Horsesh** T.C., The T 
Eyebrow T 
Fancy Idiot T 
Handy Andy T 
Heel Hook and Hack-it T 
Herdie Gerdie T 
Horseman T 
Katzenjammer T 
Keyhole T 
Lower Eaves T 
Nice 5.9 Climb T 
Nice Crack Climb T 
No Picnic T 
No Solution T,TR 
Nosedive T 
Nurdie Gerdie (aka Dogs in Heat) T 
Pony Express T 
Red Cabbage T 
Red Cabbage Right T 
Retribution T 
Shit or Go Blind T 
Short and Simple T 
Short Job T,TR 
Sonja T 
Stupid Crack T 
Suderiferous: 5.8 variation T 
Sudoriferous T 
Susie K. Block, The T 
Trust Jesus T 
Zoomulator T 
Unsorted Routes:


YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b R

Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b R [details]
FA: Jim Kolocotronis, 1973
Page Views: 3,075
Submitted By: Mike fenice on Jul 10, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (65)
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BETA PHOTO: gear on the lower half


This is a fun TR but scary for those who lead it. The first fifty feet are R/X rated on small and very pumpy crimpers.

Start 15' right of Horseman, just right of Apoplexy and climb a very thin vertical seam and a virtually blank face to the right-facing corner up above to the double-bolt anchor.


The Uberfall area


Don't bother!

Photos of Coronary Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Mark Mooradian somewhere in the hard part.
Mark Mooradian somewhere in the hard part.

Comments on Coronary Add Comment
Show which comments
By Denis O'Connor
May 13, 2009

The protection is not all that bad. It's comparable to Apoplexy (photo above). The first two placements are the same as Apoplexy, the next one is a shaky sideways stopper that might be useless, and the one above that is what I thought (hoped?) was a pretty good C3 placement. There is a long runout above that cam, but the moves get easier the higher you go.

That's not to say it wouldn't be scary to onsight it (I didn't dare), but it is leadable.
By Jon Clark
From: Philadelphia, PA
Aug 9, 2010
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R

Well, I did lead it onsight. The first two placements are not on Apoplexy. They are in the same horizontal, but directly below the super thin crack. The protection through the crux is poor to non-existent. I got a #1 or #2 BD micro nut in before the sequence, but it wouldn't be worth much more than a hang. If you blew it going through the crux you would most likely deck from 25+ feet.
By Jaysen Henderson
From: Bronx NY
Mar 21, 2011

I tr'd this after leading apoplexy, couldn't imagine leading it untill the top sections after the face climbing. crux was definitely low and the near the top is amazing, if there was more placements for pro it would definitely be a classic.
By Gunkiemike
Apr 22, 2012

A favorite variation of mine is to start on Apoplexy, do the scary flake, then angle rightwards to hit Coronary above its crux. The upper corners of Coronary are terrific to lead, in the 5.7 or 8 range I think. And it's a straight shot to the bolts this way.
By Dana Bartlett
From: CT
Apr 24, 2012

The protection is not all that bad.

I lead this on sight; the protection is all that bad. Protection comparable to Apoplexy? That's a joke.
By Stich
From: Colorado Springs, Colorado
Sep 18, 2012

Very sequency at the crux. Would be a super stiff onsight.
By Benjaminadk
From: San Pedro, California
May 29, 2013

Apoplexy is a well protected climb. Coronary is NOT. It is however a great climb to TR after leading Apoplexy. Great thin crimpy face climbing to some easier corner climbing above. I like that chunky conglomerate rock near the top. No way would I lead this.
By Jason Hurwitz
Apr 1, 2016

Led this a couple of years ago. I'd rate it 5.10b PG/5.7 R/X. Now that the tree is gone, the crux fall is clean. The 5.10 section is protected every bit as well as the flake crux on Apoplexy. Almost exact same height of bomber protection and crux on both routes. You can get a micro nut at the crux followed by a good small nut at the top of the vertical crack and then, a long runout to next gear on easier slabby terrain. After that, it is no harder than 5.8 with decent gear to the chains.
By chris_vultaggio
From: The Gunks
Aug 24, 2016

Bomber gear below the crux, and a solid nut after. A good belayer would prob keep you off the ground if you fell during the crux sequence, but a tiny nut after is all that will stop you from decking if you blow the 20 or so feet of easier climbing above before solid gear.
By EricBacus
From: Germantown, NY
Nov 3, 2016

The crux is well protected unless you have a terrible belay. It's the 5.9 move or two after the crux where you could/would deck.

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