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Routes in a1. The Uberfall - left

69 T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Apoplexy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Birthday Biscuit Boy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Black Fly T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Brat Direct, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bridal Path T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bunny T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Cordelette Arete T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Coronary T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Crackatoa T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Dirty Gerdie T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Double Chin T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Double Clutch T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Easy Keyhole T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Executioner aka That's Horsesh** T.C., The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Eyebrow T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Fancy Idiot T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Handy Andy T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Heel Hook and Hack-it T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b X
Herdie Gerdie T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Horseman T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Katzenjammer T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Keyhole T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lower Eaves T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Nice 5.9 Climb T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Nice Crack Climb T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
No Picnic T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
No Solution T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Nosedive T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Nurdie Gerdie (aka Dogs in Heat) T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Pony Express T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Red Cabbage T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Red Cabbage Right T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Retribution T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Shit or Go Blind T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Short Job T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Short and Simple T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Sonja T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Stupid Crack T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Suderiferous: 5.8 variation T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Sudoriferous T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c PG13
Susie K. Block, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b A4 X
Trust Jesus T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A4 X
Zoomulator T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a PG13
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, TR, 130 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Gardiner, Mary Perry, and Carol Maken (1958)
Page Views: 2,452 total, 39/month
Shared By: AJWM Maracek on Sep 27, 2012
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


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Description

At the beginning of the Uberfall, start on a blazed trail above the carriage road, under the same ceiling as ??http://mountainproject.com/v/69/106133868

I haven't done the second pitch, but the first pitch is a cool climb. It makes a great top rope at the end of the day, and kind of challenging for its grade. It's easy to set up a top rope on Pitch 1 by walking/scrambling up in between Short Job and Nice 5.9 Climb .

P1: Follow the crack to a large ledge. Climb the next right-facing corner to ceiling and exit left (crux) to another ledge. Through the jumbled blocks, an overhang, and a short face to a large belay ledge with a small tree at the edge. 5.3, 50'.

P2 (from guidebook): Climb left-leaning ramp followed by a small crack. Move up and left (crux) to top and walk off left. 5.4, 80'.

Protection

Standard Gunks rack. G-PG. Static/webbing to set up TR for first pitch.

Photos

LB Edwards
Brooklyn, NY
  5.4
LB Edwards   Brooklyn, NY
  5.4
It's short. Aptly named. Maybe two moves that pose a challenge. Maybe a 5.3 first pitch. 5.4 above with a beautiful crack to the top.

Walked down from p1. Jul 24, 2017
Kurtz
 
Kurtz  
 
The P1 crux may be 5.4 (if you lead 5.8). The rock is smooth so not recommended for a 5.4 leader. We saw no tree rapp station but you should definitely do P2 (which may be a notch harder but overall felt safer) and do the easy walk-off left. Nov 19, 2016
Eriks Rozners
Binghamton, NY
  5.5
Eriks Rozners   Binghamton, NY
  5.5
The crux of P1 is not well protected. It is not too hard (5.4) but if you miss it, you will likely hit the ledge. After clearing the "crux", you can spice up the climb by going straight up through the roof, it will go at 5.5. The second pitch is excellent 5.5 and not to be missed. It requires solid footwork and is not hard but also not trivial.

Climbed it again this weekend (04/30/17). I had #4 C4 and it actually provided decent protection for the P1 crux corner to polished face move. May 14, 2016
kswissto
Boulder, CO
  5.4 PG13
kswissto   Boulder, CO
  5.4 PG13
Climbed P1 and used rap tree to descend. P1 crux can be "protected" - if by protected you're okay with it being around a bunch of loose stuff looking like any fall will pull it down. DW says 5.3 first pitch, seems more like a 5.4. Oct 17, 2013