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Routes in a1. The Uberfall - left

69 T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Apoplexy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Birthday Biscuit Boy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Black Fly T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Brat, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bridal Path T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bunny T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Cordelette Arete T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Coronary T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Crackatoa T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Dirty Gerdie T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Double Chin T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Double Clutch T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Easy Keyhole T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Executioner aka That's Horsesh** T.C., The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Eyebrow T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Fancy Idiot T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Handy Andy T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Heel Hook and Hack-it T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b X
Herdie Gerdie T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Horseman T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Katzenjammer T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Keyhole T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lower Eaves T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Nice 5.9 Climb T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Nice Crack Climb T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
No Picnic T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
No Solution T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Nosedive T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Nurdie Gerdie (aka Dogs in Heat) T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Pony Express T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Red Cabbage T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Red Cabbage Right T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Retribution T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Shit or Go Blind T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Short Job T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Short and Simple T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Sonja T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Stupid Crack T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Suderiferous: 5.8 variation T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Sudoriferous T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c PG13
Susie K. Block, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b A4 X
Trust Jesus T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A4 X
Veal in a Blender T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Zoomulator T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a PG13
Unsorted Routes:
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Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Jim McCarthy and Jack Hanson, 1958
Page Views: 2,638 total · 22/month
Shared By: Chris Hillios on Oct 19, 2008
Admins: JSH

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Description

Getting up through the initial seam (past the initial overlap) is the crux on this climb ... be sure to place gear well at the bottom of this route. Gear is a little tricky down low and the pin just before the top is sketchy.

Start right at a drill hole, and wander up the face following the path of least resistance (generally to the left), moving back right to top out.

Location

This route is located just past the initial few boulder problems you see on the left as you head down the carriage road. This is the left-most line up the white wall just past several short wide cracks.

Protection

Small gear for the lead; you'll need LONG slings to TR this route. Walk off left.

Photos

- No Photos -
kenr  
Worthwhile 5.7-5.8 face climbing on Top-Rope if that's what you're looking for, but not much special about it. Never seen anyone leading it -- some suggestions in guidebook that it's not so well protected.

Since I don't understand the Description given above (as of February 2012), I'll say here how I've done it a couple of times (only on Top-Rope).

There are two "blast holes" visible at the bottom of the Brat face, vertical rounded hollows remaining from drilling into the rock to place explosives, to blast away some of the rock to make a wider flat space to build the road. The right-hand hole is roughly underneath the obvious crack for Brat Direct. The left-hand blast hole is the "official" start point for Katzenjammer -- roughly 7-9 feet left from the obvious Brat crack.

Climb the face above, with various easier or harder lines. I've read about an option of diagonaling Left, never tried it. But for Top-Rope, surely it's easier to set up TR for climbing more like just straight up - (perhaps requires a 5.8 move or two?) - with the finish say like 8 ft Left of the top of Brat, roughly on the same wide ledge.

Start variation: It's much easier if instead start farther Right toward Brat, then diagonal Left up the obvious less-steep ramp, then traverse a couple of steps further Left with feet on ledge, to rejoin Katzenjammer - (also used as a non-Direct start for Brat).

And even if using the "official" start at the left blast-hole, it's definitely easier if use the edge of that obvious ramp for hand-holds.
If you're much less tall than say 5 ft 9 inch or 5ft 8inch, then it's a tricky challenge if eliminate using the edge of the ramp for handholds. Mar 22, 2012
Kristian Starheim
Trondheim, Norway
Kristian Starheim   Trondheim, Norway
I did this on lead with BD X4's and small nuts. You can get many placements, which is reassuring with such small tools.

I started near Brat, and traversed on a ledge over to the crack system over the blast-hole. Jun 23, 2014
Kurtz
Fort Collins, CO
 
Kurtz   Fort Collins, CO
 
Blast holes? We looked hard and found none...except one high up that is not
visible from the ground. Would someone pls post a pic of the start? Oct 8, 2014
SXL
SXL  
The 5.11+/5.12- variation via Gill's crack felt like a natural start, IMHO and makes for a fun challenge. I had a bouldering pad to protect the start and I placed a yellow camalot next to hand jam which made the move turning the corner feel perfectly secure. Oct 24, 2014
bill urbanski
Kingston, PA
bill urbanski   Kingston, PA
Challenging lead. Protection was sketchy. Think small with your pro. I meandered a bit as the 5.7 line (if there actually is one) is not obvious.

Think I'd enjoy it more on TR so I could play on some variations. Oct 11, 2015

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