Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Will Crowther and Gardiner Perry (1950s)
Page Views: 6,210 total · 48/month
Shared By: Tim Schafstall on Apr 2, 2008 with updates from Kurtz
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


140 Opinions

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Description

Hard for the grade. The original route is different and was graded 5.4. As described, the route avoids some loose rock.

Climb the low-angle slab and corner to blocks, then move right and up to an overhang, passing the hang just left of a thin crack (crux), sometimes dirty from sand after rains, to a stance, then up to the bolted belay next to the tree.

Location

At the top of a rock slope, about 25 feet left of the Gerdie Block and about 60 feet up from the Carriage Road.

Protection

Guide book says G, but the placing gear is strenuous at the crux (for the grade) and there is some loose rock.

Photos

I've recently (within the past week) done Shit or Go Blind and No Picnic, and there is a cable covered with plastic that is looped around the tree that is on the ledge where the climbs end. The cable has a new Quik-Link attached to it. Sep 12, 2008
gblauer Blauer
Wayne, PA
gblauer Blauer   Wayne, PA
A nice happy climb at the start of the Trapps. After the first 20 feet, the gear is plentiful and solid. Climb up to the roof, pull it and then up the steeper face to the tree. Watch out for the rocking block below the roof. Jul 11, 2009
Joe Ludlow
Seattle, WA
Joe Ludlow   Seattle, WA
I could have sworn that this route was at one point rated a 5.3+....

The only 5.3 with a little roof on it ;) Jun 9, 2010
doligo  
Joe, how about Easy V - it is rated 5.2+ in Todd Swain's book (5.3 in Grey Dick) and has a trickier roof than one of No Picnic Jun 10, 2010
SethG
 
SethG  
 
This was much nicer than I thought it would be. Good little climb. May 11, 2011
kenr
 
kenr  
 
Nice overhang/steep section, big positive holds all the way thru it. Too bad that section is not longer (like so many nice things around the Uberfall). I did not find any "sandy" holds mentioned in one guidebook.

1 or 2 more single strenuous moves in it, where the feet are not good, or you have to step fairly high which momentarily pushes your butt out from the rock. Barely noticeable if you're strong + confident + move thru it quickly -- but very noticeable if you're not. Those 1 or 2 single moves really do require some strength in arms or fingers -- might seem "unfair" that good technique isn't enough on a 5.5

First 20-25 feet (significantly easier then 5.5) unprotected, above that seemed well-protected all the way with a range of cams in horizontals (normal Gunks stuff). The left-facing corner can be avoided, taking a direct line (unprotected?) up to the overhang, a bit harder and bit more interesting, can play with it after get a rope to the top. Mar 22, 2012
J. Serpico
Saratoga County, NY
5.5
J. Serpico   Saratoga County, NY
5.5
Rated 5.4 in Swain, I always felt this was more like a 5.5.

The roof move is a bit awkward (requires more strength than technique) , it can sometimes be a bit dirty. I also don't find the gear great below the roof. Above it both the climbing and gear are a grade or two better, though it is still steep. Mar 28, 2014
I also don't find the gear great below the roof.

When your chin is level with the roof, reach out left and you can get a good cam. May 19, 2015
Kurtz
Fort Collins, CO
 
Kurtz   Fort Collins, CO
 
A bit stiff for the grade but, overall, I really liked it. The crux overhang is not easy to sew up since the horizontals are shallow. A small nut fits nicely in the thin vertical crack but it may not feel bomber to a 5.5 leader.

*** There is now a lovely set of rapp chains at the top. The top-out is roped off to allow the vegetation to recover. *** Nov 19, 2016
David Kerkeslager
New Paltz, NY
  5.5
David Kerkeslager   New Paltz, NY
  5.5
This would be a very nice route if it weren't so chossy. There's interesting moves through the middle section and a strenuous-for-the-grade crux. But the loose death blocks and friable holds make this a one star route. There are just too many classics on solid rock here to spend time on choss. Aug 24, 2018
joe Hopfield  
 
Fun climb. The rather large loose block at the top of the bottom dihedral (under roof) is a bit scary. Thoughts from locals as to whether it is a risk? If it went, it would be very bad for people below. Nov 8, 2018