Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Dick and Marilyn DuMais (1969)
Page Views: 4,702 total · 36/month
Shared By: Tim Schafstall on Apr 2, 2008
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


59 Opinions

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Description

Not a bad little route. Good for the end of the day walk back.

Climb the easy face to a large ledge and left-facing flake. Climb the flake to a roof and loose block, then move right and up to a stance (crux). Diagonal further right past a face and up to a large ledge and belay tree.

Location

In the alcove left of the Gerdie block, on a slab 50 feet left of No Picnic and just right of a broken section of cliff, below an orange roof, about 60 feet up slope from the Carriage Road at the high point of the rock slope.

Protection

Standard Gunks rack. G.

Photos

Mark Roth
Boulder
 
Mark Roth   Boulder
 
This is a pretty good route for new leaders, just remind them not to place gear behing the giant loose hold... May 20, 2009
gblauer Blauer
Wayne, PA
gblauer Blauer   Wayne, PA
Not great, not terrible. Not really worth doing. I was working with a new leader and she did a fine job. The traverse under the roof looked daunting from the ground, but, once she got up there, she was fine. The "X" block is a bit offputting. Jun 17, 2010
derek nabozny
Norwalk, CT
 
derek nabozny   Norwalk, CT
 
One of my favorite warm ups, as long as you get there early and there isint a TR on it. 69 was on my tick list ( cuz of the name) for about 2 months before I actually had a chance to get on it. I went off the left facing corner of no picnic then traversed under the sketchy X block before breaking out and instead of moving up thru the stance I traversed right ( to the nose...not sure where the exact route goes) and up to the ledge where you can either move right into pine sapy corner or pull the .5 ? mantle move to the top of the ledge. Came back the next day and lead it again with 2 gear placements. Dec 2, 2010
Nick Hamilton
Philadelphia
 
Nick Hamilton   Philadelphia
 
I agree with Gail. I put my friend, a new leader, on this recently. Looking up at the traverse bit from the ground, he wasn't sure it would go at 5.3. Once up there he was just fine though. The route itself is just okay. Sep 24, 2014