Type: | Trad, 100 ft |
FA: | Joe Ponte and Ivan Rezucha, 1974 |
Page Views: | 3,983 total · 41/month |
Shared By: | gblauer Blauer on May 16, 2010 |
Admins: | JSH |
2018 PEREGRINE FALCON CLIMBING CLOSURE
Due to nesting peregrine falcons, the section of the Trapps cliff between and including the routes Wisecrack (5.6) and Scary Area (5.12) is temporarily closed to rock climbing. This closure is in effect as of March 19, 2018.
The section of Bonticou Crag known as THE SUNBOWL is also temporarily closed to rock climbing. This closure is in effect as of February 23, 2018.
Boulderering Closure: The section of Undercliff Road between and including the boulder problems Atlas (V10) and Yikes (V9) is temporarily closed to bouldering.
Help us to protect the fledging Peregrine Falcons. We ask that you:
• DO NOT use ascent trails or rappel routes that access this area.
• DO NOT use the trails at the top of the cliff in the closure area.
• DO NOT use the section of the cliff base climbers trail between these routes.
• PLEASE refrain from excessive noise making while in the vicinity of this closure.
Visit: mohonkpreserve.org/climb
Due to nesting peregrine falcons, the section of the Trapps cliff between and including the routes Wisecrack (5.6) and Scary Area (5.12) is temporarily closed to rock climbing. This closure is in effect as of March 19, 2018.
The section of Bonticou Crag known as THE SUNBOWL is also temporarily closed to rock climbing. This closure is in effect as of February 23, 2018.
Boulderering Closure: The section of Undercliff Road between and including the boulder problems Atlas (V10) and Yikes (V9) is temporarily closed to bouldering.
Help us to protect the fledging Peregrine Falcons. We ask that you:
• DO NOT use ascent trails or rappel routes that access this area.
• DO NOT use the trails at the top of the cliff in the closure area.
• DO NOT use the section of the cliff base climbers trail between these routes.
• PLEASE refrain from excessive noise making while in the vicinity of this closure.
Visit: mohonkpreserve.org/climb
2018 PEREGRINE FALCON CLIMBING CLOSURE
Due to nesting peregrine falcons, the section of the Trapps cliff between and including the routes Wisecrack (5.6) and Scary Area (5.12) is temporarily closed to rock climbing. This closure is in effect as of March 19, 2018.
The section of Bonticou Crag known as THE SUNBOWL is also temporarily closed to rock climbing. This closure is in effect as of February 23, 2018.
Boulderering Closure: The section of Undercliff Road between and including the boulder problems Atlas (V10) and Yikes (V9) is temporarily closed to bouldering.
Help us to protect the fledging Peregrine Falcons. We ask that you:
• DO NOT use ascent trails or rappel routes that access this area.
• DO NOT use the trails at the top of the cliff in the closure area.
• DO NOT use the section of the cliff base climbers trail between these routes.
• PLEASE refrain from excessive noise making while in the vicinity of this closure.
Visit: mohonkpreserve.org/climb
Due to nesting peregrine falcons, the section of the Trapps cliff between and including the routes Wisecrack (5.6) and Scary Area (5.12) is temporarily closed to rock climbing. This closure is in effect as of March 19, 2018.
The section of Bonticou Crag known as THE SUNBOWL is also temporarily closed to rock climbing. This closure is in effect as of February 23, 2018.
Boulderering Closure: The section of Undercliff Road between and including the boulder problems Atlas (V10) and Yikes (V9) is temporarily closed to bouldering.
Help us to protect the fledging Peregrine Falcons. We ask that you:
• DO NOT use ascent trails or rappel routes that access this area.
• DO NOT use the trails at the top of the cliff in the closure area.
• DO NOT use the section of the cliff base climbers trail between these routes.
• PLEASE refrain from excessive noise making while in the vicinity of this closure.
Visit: mohonkpreserve.org/climb
Description
Start at the crack, climb up the face and into the orange open book. Traverse left until you're 5 feet from the seam in the No Picnic roof. Pull over the roof to a stance, climb up, clip the pin, back it up and climb over the final overhangs. Bolted belay next to the tree.
Location
Start at the crack 20 feet right of No Picnic, in the alcove above and to the left of the Gerdie block.
Wayne, PA
(V1- 5.10 a) start at the crack and follow up. At the 1st roof traverse right and pull the right hand corner avoiding "Sudoriferous" (5.2). If you fall on top rope here you will swing so dont. Work your way up to more over hangs and then left to finish at the "No Picnic" rap station. Grey Dick book has a good picture of the line in the back.
(V2- 5.10c) start at the crack and follow up. At the 1st roof traverse right and pull the center of the overhang. Avoid the small hold under the roof that wiggles, you can grab just below that. Climb straight up to more over hangs finish with the others at the rap station. Jul 26, 2010
Burlington, CT
Mahwah, NJ
Shawangunk Township, NY
The line in the photo feels soft for a Gunks 5.8. Super comfortable though. Definitely a nice cruiser! Jun 15, 2015
Cambridge, MA
I put the biggest BD nut (giant red one) in a pod to the left of the first roof; super good placement but your belayer will still have to keep you off the ledge. Apr 18, 2016