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Routes in a1. The Uberfall - left

69 T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Apoplexy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Birthday Biscuit Boy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Black Fly T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Brat Direct, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bridal Path T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bunny T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Cordelette Arete T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Coronary T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Crackatoa T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Dirty Gerdie T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Double Chin T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Double Clutch T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Easy Keyhole T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Executioner aka That's Horsesh** T.C., The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Eyebrow T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Fancy Idiot T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Handy Andy T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Heel Hook and Hack-it T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b X
Herdie Gerdie T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Horseman T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Katzenjammer T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Keyhole T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lower Eaves T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Nice 5.9 Climb T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Nice Crack Climb T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
No Picnic T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
No Solution T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Nosedive T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Nurdie Gerdie (aka Dogs in Heat) T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Pony Express T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Red Cabbage T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Red Cabbage Right T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Retribution T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Shit or Go Blind T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Short Job T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Short and Simple T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Sonja T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Stupid Crack T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Suderiferous: 5.8 variation T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Sudoriferous T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c PG13
Susie K. Block, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b A4 X
Trust Jesus T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A4 X
Zoomulator T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a PG13
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Joe Ponte and Ivan Rezucha, 1974
Page Views: 3,870 total, 42/month
Shared By: gblauer Blauer on May 16, 2010
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


66 Opinions

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Description

Start at the crack, climb up the face and into the orange open book. Traverse left until you're 5 feet from the seam in the No Picnic roof. Pull over the roof to a stance, climb up, clip the pin, back it up and climb over the final overhangs. Bolted belay next to the tree.

Location

Start at the crack 20 feet right of No Picnic, in the alcove above and to the left of the Gerdie block.

Protection

Typical gunks rack, there is a pin (manky and old) at the second (easier) overhang.

Photos

M Bageant
Cambridge, MA
M Bageant   Cambridge, MA
I agree that this climb is soft for Gunks 5.8; is PG for gear; and is super fun!

I put the biggest BD nut (giant red one) in a pod to the left of the first roof; super good placement but your belayer will still have to keep you off the ledge. Apr 18, 2016
Eric Lutz  
 
Did all three variations for the first time in a decade, Felt AMAZING pulling straight through the roof!! Oct 13, 2015
Gunks Jesse
Shawangunk Township, NY
  5.7+
Gunks Jesse   Shawangunk Township, NY
  5.7+
If you set up a top rope directly over the two ceilings beware of loose rock on the ledges above. It isn't a problem until you pull the rope at the end of the day. The loose end whipping down may cause a shower of pebbles to rain down on you and any bystanders. It might be best to pull the rope a different way.

The line in the photo feels soft for a Gunks 5.8. Super comfortable though. Definitely a nice cruiser! Jun 15, 2015
Eric Lutz  
 
Originally thought the route went right under the roof. Took my first lead fall just before making my way around the exit. Took years before I found out that I hadn't fallen on an .8! May 5, 2015
Michael G  
 
I hit the first overhang where the line in the "beta" photo hits the first overhang, but I trended right to pull it, not left (as the line does in the photo). This felt 5.8. By trending left (and closer to No Picnic), it may make it easier? I also feel that the gear pulling the first overhang this way was not totally G. Apr 13, 2015
Jon Po
Mahwah, NJ
 
Jon Po   Mahwah, NJ
 
I think this route is pretty soft for Gunks 5.8. The gear is less than good, but who cares - it's a jug haul with great feet! A fun variation that I made up is to go straight up from the start to the overhang.. The variation probably goes at 5.8+ and is definitely R-rated. Nov 3, 2013
Alex Jacques
Burlington, CT
5.6
Alex Jacques   Burlington, CT
5.6
This climb is easily missed when you first walk in, and always open. I wanted to climb it because of the name. It is more of a 5.6 than a 5.8, but it is a nice warm up and takes lots of good pro. Aug 25, 2013
SethG
 
SethG  
 
I enjoyed Shit or Go Blind. Two nice cruxes, both soft for the grade in my opinion. Good pro, I placed two cams after the pin in the first set of overhangs. I don't know why Gail gave this a pg13, unless she meant for the opening moves. You get up a ways before the pro appears, but there's good pro the whole rest of the way. May 11, 2011
counch  
With 20ft static line you can top rope several trees 5 to 10ft right (stage left) of rap station directly over the center of Shit or Go blind.

(V1- 5.10 a) – start at the crack and follow up. At the 1st roof traverse right and pull the right hand corner avoiding "Sudoriferous" (5.2). If you fall on top rope here you will swing so don’t. Work your way up to more over hangs and then left to finish at the "No Picnic" rap station. Grey Dick book has a good picture of the line in the back.

(V2- 5.10c) – start at the crack and follow up. At the 1st roof traverse right and pull the center of the overhang. Avoid the small hold under the roof that wiggles, you can grab just below that. Climb straight up to more over hangs finish with the others at the rap station. Jul 26, 2010
gblauer Blauer
Wayne, PA
 
gblauer Blauer   Wayne, PA
 
I like this climb. I do a variation that I call "no shit". Start up No Picnic and then traverse right to the Shit or Go Blind roof. Pull both roofs and finish up at the top of No Picnic. Jul 11, 2010