Type: Trad, TR, 90 ft
FA: Jim Kolocotronis, 1973
Page Views: 3,469 total · 23/month
Shared By: Mike fenice on Jul 10, 2006
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


77 Opinions

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Description

This is a fun TR but scary for those who lead it. The first fifty feet are R/X rated on small and very pumpy crimpers.

Start 15' right of Horseman, just right of Apoplexy and climb a very thin vertical seam and a virtually blank face to the right-facing corner up above to the double-bolt anchor.

Location

The Uberfall area

Protection

Don't bother!

Photos

The protection is not all that bad. It's comparable to Apoplexy (photo above). The first two placements are the same as Apoplexy, the next one is a shaky sideways stopper that might be useless, and the one above that is what I thought (hoped?) was a pretty good C3 placement. There is a long runout above that cam, but the moves get easier the higher you go.

That's not to say it wouldn't be scary to onsight it (I didn't dare), but it is leadable. May 13, 2009
Jon Clark
Philadelphia, PA
  5.10 R
Jon Clark   Philadelphia, PA
  5.10 R
^^^^^
Well, I did lead it onsight. The first two placements are not on Apoplexy. They are in the same horizontal, but directly below the super thin crack. The protection through the crux is poor to non-existent. I got a #1 or #2 BD micro nut in before the sequence, but it wouldn't be worth much more than a hang. If you blew it going through the crux you would most likely deck from 25+ feet. Aug 9, 2010
Jaysen Henderson
Brooklyn NY
 
Jaysen Henderson   Brooklyn NY
 
I tr'd this after leading apoplexy, couldn't imagine leading it untill the top sections after the face climbing. crux was definitely low and the near the top is amazing, if there was more placements for pro it would definitely be a classic. Mar 21, 2011
A favorite variation of mine is to start on Apoplexy, do the scary flake, then angle rightwards to hit Coronary above its crux. The upper corners of Coronary are terrific to lead, in the 5.7 or 8 range I think. And it's a straight shot to the bolts this way. Apr 22, 2012
The protection is not all that bad.

I lead this on sight; the protection is all that bad. Protection comparable to Apoplexy? That's a joke. Apr 24, 2012
Tim Stich
Colorado Springs, Colorado
 
Tim Stich   Colorado Springs, Colorado
 
Very sequency at the crux. Would be a super stiff onsight. Sep 18, 2012
Benjaminadk
San Pedro, California
 
Benjaminadk   San Pedro, California
 
Apoplexy is a well protected climb. Coronary is NOT. It is however a great climb to TR after leading Apoplexy. Great thin crimpy face climbing to some easier corner climbing above. I like that chunky conglomerate rock near the top. No way would I lead this. May 29, 2013
Led this a couple of years ago. I'd rate it 5.10b PG/5.7 R/X. Now that the tree is gone, the crux fall is clean. The 5.10 section is protected every bit as well as the flake crux on Apoplexy. Almost exact same height of bomber protection and crux on both routes. You can get a micro nut at the crux followed by a good small nut at the top of the vertical crack and then, a long runout to next gear on easier slabby terrain. After that, it is no harder than 5.8 with decent gear to the chains. Apr 1, 2016
chris_vultaggio
The Gunks
 
chris_vultaggio   The Gunks
 
Bomber gear below the crux, and a solid nut after. A good belayer would prob keep you off the ground if you fell during the crux sequence, but a tiny nut after is all that will stop you from decking if you blow the 20 or so feet of easier climbing above before solid gear. Aug 24, 2016
EricBacus
Kingston, ny
EricBacus   Kingston, ny
The crux is well protected unless you have a terrible belay. It's the 5.9 move or two after the crux where you could/would deck. Nov 3, 2016