Avg: 3.4 from 649 votes
|Type:||Trad, 120 ft|
|FA:||Hans Kraus, Fritz Wiessner, 1941|
|Page Views:||35,251 total · 243/month|
|Shared By:||Guy H. on Feb 23, 2006|
DescriptionThis is probably the best single pitch of 5.5 at the Trapps. The climbing so steep, you can't believe you are on a 5.5! The start is to the left of Laurel and to the right of Nosedive, at a crack system with the stump of a tall skinny tree about 15' up, below a huge hanging corner that you'll soon be walking out.
P1: Start in the obvious crack system leading to the large right-facing dihedral that starts 25' off the ground. Clip a fixed pin at the roof, and continue up the fun dihedral. At the tiered roof above, traverse left around the nose to a small ledge. (Optional belay here).
Continue up the crack and face to the top of the cliff. A real gem...
Descent: Walking down by the Uberfall Descent is usually the best option; walk north, trending close to the cliff edge, until you find yourself atop of Ken's crack.
You can rap with two ropes, but consider that the carriage road is at its busiest point here, with dogs and babies and cyclists and tourists hanging out -right- where your ropes will land, blindly, when you toss them. A single 70m does get you to the ground, and there are reports of some 60m ropes getting there with rope stretch and/or downclimbing -- but the last 40' of the rappel are free-hanging, making errors very difficult to correct.