Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: Dick Williams, 1964 (TR)
Page Views: 3,338 total · 28/month
Shared By: Chris Duca on Apr 21, 2009
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


41 Opinions

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Description

A stunning, often overlooked, steep and quite painful hand crack.

Climb the very sustained, and VERY painful tight-hands crack on the left side of the boulder to the summit. Fighting the pain from the toothlike pebbles in the crack is very much part of the route's crux.

Location

Sonja is the first crack on the left, on the road-facing side of the giant Mental Block, which is off and below the carriage trail directly opposite Nosedive. Scramble down to the base of the route from the right side of the boulder.

Protection

A small rack from #.75 to #2. Bring two #3 Camalots to set up a TR anchor.

Photos

This little route is super cool. It's a true rarity in the Gunks - one of the only pure hand cracks that I can think of. It's only tight hands in a few spots. I have big hands and I managed to find nice jams. I even got a finger lock at one point. Totally classic! Nov 15, 2011
If you like to crack climb, this is the route to get on at the Gunks.

Toothy and pumpy, this climb is a true truly fun grueller.

After taking at the crux, I slid up left on the arrete for a few layback moves, then slid back into the crack after a bomber hand jam. Moving out onto the arrete probably is off, but it's no less difficult.

Doubles in .75 to #1 for the route and #2s for the anchor are helpful. Nov 4, 2013
Jon Po
Mahwah, NJ
  5.10b
Jon Po   Mahwah, NJ
  5.10b
I didn't tape up for this one... i still have scars on my hand over 3 years later... Nov 1, 2015