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Routes in a1. The Uberfall - left

69 T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Apoplexy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Birthday Biscuit Boy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Black Fly T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Brat Direct, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bridal Path T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bunny T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Cordelette Arete T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Coronary T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Crackatoa T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Dirty Gerdie T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Double Chin T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Double Clutch T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Easy Keyhole T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Executioner aka That's Horsesh** T.C., The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Eyebrow T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Fancy Idiot T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Handy Andy T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Heel Hook and Hack-it T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b X
Herdie Gerdie T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Horseman T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Katzenjammer T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Keyhole T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lower Eaves T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Nice 5.9 Climb T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Nice Crack Climb T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
No Picnic T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
No Solution T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Nosedive T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Nurdie Gerdie (aka Dogs in Heat) T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Pony Express T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Red Cabbage T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Red Cabbage Right T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Retribution T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Shit or Go Blind T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Short Job T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Short and Simple T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Sonja T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Stupid Crack T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Suderiferous: 5.8 variation T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Sudoriferous T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c PG13
Susie K. Block, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b A4 X
Trust Jesus T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A4 X
Zoomulator T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a PG13
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 130 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Anne Church and Krist Raubenheimer (1955)
Page Views: 1,794 total, 15/month
Shared By: Tim Schafstall on Apr 2, 2008
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


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Description

P1 - Climb the face to the crescent-shaped flake/corner and a fixed pin. Move up the corner a bit to a ledge (Williams' guide notes a 5.8 variation by climbing a corner to the right - never done it myself), then up to a tree/rap station. Climb the thin face (small gear helpful here), then straight up to a nice ledge, then diagonal up left to loose blocks and a belay/rap tree.

P2 - I have only followed this, has broken rock and is not great (see comment below re: fridge-sized block). Climb the corner above the belay to a bush, pass it on the right, then move left under the ceiling to a corner. Climb a flake to access the corner (crux), and follow it to the top, then traverse right about 20 feet to a tree belay/rap station.

Location

Just left of Bunny below a crescent-shaped flake.

Descend by Uberfall Descent, to climber's right.

Protection

Standard Gunks rack plus Lowe Balls and microcams such as Wild Country Zeros or Black Alien.

Photos

Eriks Rozners
Binghamton, NY
  5.6 R
Eriks Rozners   Binghamton, NY
  5.6 R
I could not get reliable protection above the pin before the crux on P1. Going left of the crescent felt relatively easy for 5.6, but R for sure. The crux on P2 has similar lack of protection, just that the climbing is easier. The large loose rock is still there. Overall, the climbing was interesting, but the poor protection for both cruxes keep the stars down. Oct 29, 2017
MojoMonkey  
 
Dirty and loose and run-out in spots, but I had fun on it. I wouldn't recommend it if it was near your limit I guess, but I thought it was worth checking out the corner on the second pitch. May 31, 2017
BEWARE! I would not recommend the second pitch. There is a mini-fridge sized block just past the roof that is about to come off. I placed a cam in the 2" crack behind this block and when I tugged on it the whole thing shifted. There are no other placements, so I had to climb past it and got really run out. Its pretty dirty too Aug 3, 2015
john2.71
Montclair, NJ
john2.71   Montclair, NJ
P1 is worthwhile. It is more technical (and more PG) than many of the 5.6 classics. There's no single big crux to pull, just good face-climbing. Finish up right towards Bunny if you don't feel like climbing the dirty P2.

The crescent is PG. The face above is G. Jun 11, 2015
Mthoresz  
 
I liked this one. Nothing crazy, but fun balance-y start moves and the little move through the crescent-shaped thing. It's a good add-on to TR if you're doing Bunny. Oct 13, 2014
Kurtz
 
Kurtz  
 
Sorry, guys. I liked it (but I'm not very picky). Great route name. You have to walk off if you do P2. Oct 8, 2014
gblauer Blauer
Wayne, PA
gblauer Blauer   Wayne, PA
I agree wtih Seth. This is a crappy climb. ONly good for running a TR on the harder variation. Not worth doing and so so gear. Oct 15, 2011
SethG  
I think it's kind of wacko that Dick gives this climb a star. The first pitch has at most two interesting spots-- one move at the crescent-shaped crack, and then another thin move above the next ledge at the pin. But that's about it. The 5.4 second pitch is a little more interesting than it appears it will be, but this is outweighed by the loose rock, the bushes, the dirty ledges, and the lichen.

I took a look at the 5.9 toprope variation mentioned in Dick's book-- it goes through a cool-looking roof, but this too hardly seems worth the trouble.

I'm not sorry I did the first pitch once but I'll likely never go back again. May 11, 2011