All Locations > New York > Gunks > Trapps > a1. The Uberfall - left

Fancy Idiot

Name: Fancy Idiot
Rating: 1.8

5.6 YDS 4c French 14 Ewbanks V UIAA 12 ZA S 4b British

Routes in a1. The Uberfall - left

L › R R › L A › Z

	69 T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
	Apoplexy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Birthday Biscuit Boy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Black Fly T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
	Brat, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Bridal Path T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Bunny T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
	Cordelette Arete T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
	Coronary T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
	Crackatoa T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Dirty Gerdie T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Double Chin T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
	Double Clutch T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Easy Keyhole T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
	Eyebrow T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
	Fancy Idiot T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Handy Andy T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Heel Hook and Hack-it T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b X
	Herdie Gerdie T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Horseman T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
	Katzenjammer T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Keyhole T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Lower Eaves T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Mental Block T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c X
	Mental Block 5.8 T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Nice 5.8 climb T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
	Nice 5.9 Climb T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Nice Crack Climb T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	No Picnic T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
	No Solution T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Nosedive T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Nurdie Gerdie (aka Dogs in Heat) T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	One Trick Pony T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Pony Express T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Poopooplexy T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
	Red Cabbage T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
	Red Cabbage Direct T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
	Red Cabbage Right T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Retribution T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Retro-Bunny T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
	Shit or Go Blind T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
	Short and Simple T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
	Short Job T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
	Something Scary T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b R
	Sonja T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Stupid Crack T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Suderiferous: 5.8 variation T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
	Sudoriferous T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c PG13
	Trust Jesus T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A4 X
	Veal in a Blender T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Zoomulator T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a PG13
Unsorted Routes:

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Type:	Trad, 130 ft (39 m), 2 pitches
GPS:	41.737, -74.18943
FA:	Anne Church and Krist Raubenheimer (1955)
Page Views:	3,668 total · 17/month
Shared By:	Tim Schafstall on Apr 2, 2008 · Updates
Admins:	Morgan Patterson, M Santisi, chris vultaggio Page Updates (admin only)

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Description

P1 - Climb the face to the crescent-shaped flake/corner and a fixed pin. Move up the corner a bit to a ledge (Williams' guide notes a 5.8 variation by climbing a corner to the right - never done it myself), then up to a tree. Climb the thin face (small gear helpful here), then straight up to a nice ledge, then diagonal up left to loose blocks and a belay, or head right to the bolts on Bunny.

P2 - I have only followed this, has broken rock and is not great (see comment below re: fridge-sized block). Climb the corner above the belay to a bush, pass it on the right, then move left under the ceiling to a corner. Climb a flake to access the corner (crux), and follow it to the top, then traverse right about 20 feet to a tree belay/rap station.