Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Unknown, 1950s
Page Views: 4,580 total · 35/month
Shared By: Tim Schafstall on Apr 2, 2008
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


89 Opinions

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Description

Follow the crack past the crux at a small overhang (easier if tall) to a stance. Move left and follow cracks and flakes to another overhang, then right up crack to large ledge and pine tree.
Descend by walking off right (faster) or left (as you face cliff).

Location

At a short right-leaning crack in a corner, just right of Easy Keyhole.

Protection

Regular Gunks rack. Tree at top for belay.

Photos

gblauer Blauer
Wayne, PA
gblauer Blauer   Wayne, PA
Slick start (rock is slippery) leads to a nice climb. Try the direct start, once you go up the layback start go straight up rather than traverse right. It's a one move variation, but, it's fun. Jul 14, 2009
Kevin Heckeler
Las Vegas, NV
  5.7+
Kevin Heckeler   Las Vegas, NV
  5.7+
Did this on top rope today and it was a bunch of fun. I liked it more than Laurel, another nearby 5.7 crack climb. Three sections of interesting moves.

  • *Update Oct 2014** -- This thing is getting super polished at the bottom, and from what I was told there's been at least one major leader fall/injury because of it. IMO it isn't worth leading with the risk.
Apr 10, 2011
Dan Katz
New York, NY
 
Dan Katz   New York, NY
 
I have never seen more polished footholds in my life, and I climb in Central Park. Feb 23, 2017