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Routes in a1. The Uberfall - left

69 T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Apoplexy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Birthday Biscuit Boy T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Black Fly T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Brat Direct, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bridal Path T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bunny T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Cordelette Arete T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Coronary T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Crackatoa T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Dirty Gerdie T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Double Chin T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Double Clutch T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Easy Keyhole T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Executioner aka That's Horsesh** T.C., The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Eyebrow T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Fancy Idiot T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Handy Andy T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Heel Hook and Hack-it T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b X
Herdie Gerdie T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Horseman T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Katzenjammer T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Keyhole T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lower Eaves T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Nice 5.9 Climb T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Nice Crack Climb T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
No Picnic T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
No Solution T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Nosedive T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Nurdie Gerdie (aka Dogs in Heat) T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Pony Express T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Red Cabbage T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Red Cabbage Right T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Retribution T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Shit or Go Blind T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Short Job T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Short and Simple T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Sonja T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Stupid Crack T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Suderiferous: 5.8 variation T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Sudoriferous T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c PG13
Susie K. Block, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b A4 X
Trust Jesus T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A4 X
Zoomulator T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a PG13
Unsorted Routes:
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Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Unknown, 1950s
Page Views: 4,302 total · 35/month
Shared By: Tim Schafstall on Apr 2, 2008
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


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Access Issue: 2018 Peregrine closure: Wisecrack to Scary Area Details
Access Issue: Seasonal Route Closure Details

Description [Suggest Change]

Follow the crack past the crux at a small overhang (easier if tall) to a stance. Move left and follow cracks and flakes to another overhang, then right up crack to large ledge and pine tree.
Descend by walking off right (faster) or left (as you face cliff).

Location [Suggest Change]

At a short right-leaning crack in a corner, just right of Easy Keyhole.

Protection [Suggest Change]

Regular Gunks rack. Tree at top for belay.

Photos

gblauer Blauer
Wayne, PA
gblauer Blauer   Wayne, PA
Slick start (rock is slippery) leads to a nice climb. Try the direct start, once you go up the layback start go straight up rather than traverse right. It's a one move variation, but, it's fun. Jul 14, 2009
Kevin Heckeler
Upstate New York
  5.7+
Kevin Heckeler   Upstate New York
  5.7+
Did this on top rope today and it was a bunch of fun. I liked it more than Laurel, another nearby 5.7 crack climb. Three sections of interesting moves.

  • *Update Oct 2014** -- This thing is getting super polished at the bottom, and from what I was told there's been at least one major leader fall/injury because of it. IMO it isn't worth leading with the risk.
Apr 10, 2011
Dan Katz  
 
I have never seen more polished footholds in my life, and I climb in Central Park. Feb 23, 2017

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