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Routes in a1. The Uberfall - left

69 T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Apoplexy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Birthday Biscuit Boy T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Black Fly T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Brat Direct, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bridal Path T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bunny T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Cordelette Arete T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Coronary T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Crackatoa T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Dirty Gerdie T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Double Chin T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Double Clutch T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Easy Keyhole T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Executioner aka That's Horsesh** T.C., The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Eyebrow T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Fancy Idiot T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Handy Andy T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Heel Hook and Hack-it T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b X
Herdie Gerdie T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Horseman T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Katzenjammer T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Keyhole T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lower Eaves T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Nice 5.9 Climb T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Nice Crack Climb T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
No Picnic T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
No Solution T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Nosedive T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Nurdie Gerdie (aka Dogs in Heat) T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Pony Express T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Red Cabbage T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Red Cabbage Right T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Retribution T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Shit or Go Blind T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Short Job T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Short and Simple T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Sonja T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Stupid Crack T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Suderiferous: 5.8 variation T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Sudoriferous T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c PG13
Susie K. Block, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b A4 X
Trust Jesus T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A4 X
Zoomulator T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a PG13
Unsorted Routes:
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Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Anne Church and Krist Raubenheimer, 1955
Page Views: 11,357 total · 81/month
Shared By: Mr. Malloc on Nov 17, 2006 with updates from lucander
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


318 Opinions

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Access Issue: 2018 Peregrine closure: Wisecrack to Scary Area Details
Access Issue: Seasonal Route Closure Details

Description [Suggest Change]

P1: Climb up the corner to a small roof split by a thin crack. Step left and move up (crux) or pull the roof directly (5.6, alternate "Bunny's Roof"). Continue up the line of most pleasant resistance passing a piton and big holds to a set of bolts (2018, GCC) just below the clifftop that allow for a lower off with 60 m rope. This anchor also serves Fancy Idiot, so make sure not to toprope through the chains.  

P2: Another section of fun climbing up right to another big tree (two ropes from here) leads to the clifftop, where you can walk back to the Uberfall Descent. P1 and P2 can be easily combined.

Bolted belay added summer 2015.

Location [Suggest Change]

At the Uberfall; start 10 feet left of Retribution at a crack in a right-facing corner / open book.

Protection [Suggest Change]

Regular trad rack.
Andy Choens
Albany, NY
 
Andy Choens   Albany, NY
 
If you want to TR Retribution, you can lead Bunny, and veer to the right to get to the Retribution chains. It's no more than 5.5 this way. May 10, 2007
Joe M
Beckley, wv
  5.5
Joe M   Beckley, wv
  5.5
My first Gunks route. Not real exciting but good to warm up on or practice placing pro on. Sep 2, 2007
Risi
 
Risi  
 
Most of the climb is 5.3, except for the opening moves, and the small overhang. Excellent protection. Really good for refining your speed climbing skills. Oct 15, 2007
The climb is only 5.6 if you surmount the first roof direct. The actual rating is 5.4 and is achieved by following the original route that traverses left for a few feet, then back right over the hang. Apr 2, 2008
Mark Roth
Boulder
  5.4
Mark Roth   Boulder
  5.4
I followed this route once in the early 80's on Easter sunday. All of the ledges had little piles of jelly beans. Very fun.

Another time I brought up a friend that was new to climbing. He froze up and refused to move up or down for a long long time. We had to finish in the dark when he finally decided to continue climbing... Apr 7, 2011
Kevin Heckeler
Upstate New York
  5.6
Kevin Heckeler   Upstate New York
  5.6
The opening 25 feet has a few interesting technical moves. It's not a gimme. The bulge/roof is definitely in the 5.6 range. I find it easy to pull, but once you're upright the hands vanish and you end up feeling a bit uneasy as you slowly move your feet up on smeary holds and find a reachy hand on the wall to stabilize yourself. Mar 14, 2012
Matt Baer
Boulder, CO
  5.5
Matt Baer   Boulder, CO
  5.5
My First trad lead. It's an okay route but I made it fun and ran it out a lot. One 60m rope gets you back down to the ground fine. Apr 19, 2012
gblauer Blauer
Wayne, PA
gblauer Blauer   Wayne, PA
A great climb for a new leader (roof or walk around the roof). Lots of gear, great stances, no route finding, rings and slings on the tree. To me, this is a great little climb. Oct 23, 2012
Dan Africk
Brooklyn, New York
  5.5
Dan Africk   Brooklyn, New York
  5.5
Nice easy climb, though there was a runout section after the roof and before the first tree (optional belay/rappel). Jugs abound, but there were a few surprisingly committing moves to get to a jug that's just out of reach. I did the 5.4 variation and stopped at the first tree (I was climbing by headlamp in the dark and running out of draws..).

I added a new piece of red 1" webbing to the first tree anchor on 9/22/2014

Edit: I climbed this again, and didn't find a real runout this time- Maybe I looked more carefully, or it wasn't as dark out, not sure. Just be sure to utilize whatever placements you find after the roof. Tricams will serve you well. Sep 23, 2014
Mthoresz
  5.4
Mthoresz  
  5.4
I thought it was an easy, fun route. We did the variation to the left of the roof, and it's no more than 5.4 that way, but still fun. I would do it again and try the roof line. Oct 13, 2014
> My First trad lead. It's an okay route but I made it fun and ran it out a lot.

NOT recommended. First trad leads are all about placing LOTS of gear. (You need the practice. Doesn't matter what grade you sport lead or TR) Mar 25, 2016
David Kerkeslager
New Paltz, NY
  5.4
David Kerkeslager   New Paltz, NY
  5.4
Did this after rain. The crux "roof" for the direct 5.6 variation is annoying to protect. 4 variations of a nut placement failed tug test, and when I finally got a nut to fit, it blocked a key handhold. The rest of the route is fun--TBH I'd go for the 5.4 variation even though it's easier just to avoid the annoyance. Nov 19, 2017
From the new bolted station, our single 70m got us to the ground with a few feet of rope to spare. (Obviously, be careful pitching rope onto the carriage road; it was dead the day we climbed.) Nov 25, 2017
Matthew Gill  
 
We climbed this next to a local the other day and he wondered whether we were going to HOP on the route? Hop on ya'll...peeps be so nice in NY 7 days ago

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