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Routes in a1. The Uberfall - left

69 T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Apoplexy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Birthday Biscuit Boy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Black Fly T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Brat Direct, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bridal Path T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bunny T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Cordelette Arete T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Coronary T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Crackatoa T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Dirty Gerdie T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Double Chin T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Double Clutch T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Easy Keyhole T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Executioner aka That's Horsesh** T.C., The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Eyebrow T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Fancy Idiot T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Handy Andy T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Heel Hook and Hack-it T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b X
Herdie Gerdie T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Horseman T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Katzenjammer T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Keyhole T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lower Eaves T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Nice 5.9 Climb T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Nice Crack Climb T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
No Picnic T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
No Solution T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Nosedive T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Nurdie Gerdie (aka Dogs in Heat) T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Pony Express T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Red Cabbage T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Red Cabbage Right T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Retribution T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Shit or Go Blind T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Short Job T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Short and Simple T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Sonja T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Stupid Crack T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Suderiferous: 5.8 variation T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Sudoriferous T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c PG13
Susie K. Block, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b A4 X
Trust Jesus T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A4 X
Zoomulator T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a PG13
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Tom Scheuer and Jim Andress, 1963 FFA: John Hudson, 1964
Page Views: 3,669 total, 26/month
Shared By: Bob Hayes on Aug 2, 2006
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


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Description

Up the middle of the face of the Herdie Gerdie block. Thin face moves between horizontals, with a line of fixed pins to point the way. Tree rap station/anchor on top can be backed up with gear. This is very fun climb despite being short. There is an 11a variation to the right, Nurdie Gerdie (aka Dogs in Heat), that is seldom led and often toproped. Both are quality routes.

Location

Just before the Uberfall, in the center of a huge block that's 20' off the carriage road, and just before Bunny.

Protection

Bring a few screamers if yer fat like me; those old fixed pins don't look so hot. Real small cams are helpful to back up the pins. Otherwise a few small-to-medium cams is all ya need to fill the remaining horizontals.

Photos

Sergey Shevelev
San Francisco, CA
 
Sergey Shevelev   San Francisco, CA
 
I agree it needs more stars. This is a super fun route for a 5.8+, given that it's not a one-crux-move route as are many at the Gunks. Jun 5, 2016
S. Neoh  
Oh, yeah, I remember those holds and the runout well. This route deserves more stars. And maybe a PG rating, hard to say for sure.
8+, hmmm, only at The Gunks! Aug 21, 2011
gblauer Blauer
Wayne, PA
 
gblauer Blauer   Wayne, PA
 
I took a whip on this today. I backed up the top pin with a green alien and took an inadvertant 12 footer. All air. I thought I was through the crux when I came upon some slopey holds with not so great feet. Oops...off I skittered. It's a tad run out after the crux, you can get some crappy gear off to the right, but, I sure wouldn't want to fall on it. Aug 20, 2011