Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,137 total · 19/month
Shared By: Dana Bartlett on Aug 9, 2009
Admins: JSH

You & This Route

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Climb up about 25 feet to a short right-facing, right-leaning corner capped by a roof. Go over the roof (crux) to a stance, then over two smaller and easier (about 5.8) roofs. Trend left to a large pine and belay.


Find the trail leading up to the base of the cliff that is just around the corner (right) from the Brat face: at the start of this trail is an obvious, low-angle chimney - Easy Keyhole. The start of this route is about 45 feet or so past that, and ten feet right or so of the obvious, right-leaning layback crack of Nice 5.7 climb.


Standard 'Gunks rack.


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gblauer Blauer
Wayne, PA
gblauer Blauer   Wayne, PA
Found this to be a soft 9. Basically a one move wonder, rock over and then up a short face through some easy roof moves. This is well protected and makes a nice first "9" for someone breaking into the grade. Oct 15, 2011
I agree that it's one strenuous (and a bit balancy?) memorable 9 move, though not necessarily representative of crux moves on lots of other 9s in the Gunks. There are also some mildly-entertaining easier moves leading up to it. Mar 22, 2012