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Nice 5.9 Climb

5.9, Trad, 50 ft (15 m),  Avg: 2.1 from 80 votes
FA: unknown
New York > Gunks > Trapps > a1. The Uberfall - left

Description

Climb up about 25 feet to a short right-facing, right-leaning corner capped by a roof. Go over the roof (crux) to a stance, then over two smaller and easier (about 5.8) roofs. Trend left to a large pine and belay.  Walk off to climbers' left.

Location

Find the trail leading up to the base of the cliff that is just around the corner (right) from the Brat face: at the start of this trail is an obvious, low-angle chimney - Easy Keyhole. The start of this route is about 45 feet or so past that, and ten feet right or so of the obvious, right-leaning layback crack of Nice 5.7 climb.

Protection

Standard 'Gunks rack.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Nice 5.9 Climb
[Hide Photo] Nice 5.9 Climb
If you're toproping from a high anchor, by all means take a lap on this line ("Nice 5.8 Climb").
[Hide Photo] If you're toproping from a high anchor, by all means take a lap on this line ("Nice 5.8 Climb").
TR-ing Nice 5.9 Climb
[Hide Photo] TR-ing Nice 5.9 Climb

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Gail Blauer
Gardiner, NY
[Hide Comment] Found this to be a soft 9. Basically a one move wonder, rock over and then up a short face through some easy roof moves. This is well protected and makes a nice first "9" for someone breaking into the grade. Oct 15, 2011
[Hide Comment] I agree that it's one strenuous (and a bit balancy?) memorable 9 move, though not necessarily representative of crux moves on lots of other 9s in the Gunks. There are also some mildly-entertaining easier moves leading up to it. Mar 22, 2012
Shane K
ADKs
  5.9
[Hide Comment] The crux is a puzzler and you WILL burn out if you don't do it right! Nov 4, 2019
[Hide Comment] TR'ing this route just became a bit less convenient, as the Preserve has effectively decreed the big tree "hands-off", and the new bolted anchor is a few feet to the left. I always placed a cam (BD 0.75 I think) as a directional when anchored on the tree; I don't know if that's going to be sufficient in our new bolted anchor realm. Jun 23, 2021