Apoplexy

Stellar route. I didn't feel that the the opening face was too sketchy. There is one flake of question, and if you can put very little pressure on it and climb on through with confidence, you're fine. Incredible route. Jul 28, 2006

Well, great description of the route, however, and for the full "classic" experience, don't traverse right after the roof, nevermind the bolts (of an adjacent route), just keep going straight up through the final chimney and set up a belay. Aug 21, 2006

#3 camalot below the overhang is helpful. Nov 5, 2007

Excellent route. The gear is a bit sketch at the small falke, but if you're accustomed to Gunks face climbing the moves are not bad and good gear is available at the next horizontal.

The bolts are not for an adjacent cliumb. The traditional way to finish the climb was straight up after the roof through the chimney, but most everyone traverses right to the bolts to TR the route these days. The chimney may be dirty and grungy by now. Apr 2, 2008

First time that I did the chimney. I think it was more fun/thoughtful then the run for the chains. Bottom part of the climb is a bit reachy for this shorty. May 25, 2009

I love to climb the route, I hate to lead it. Somehow I have difficulty with placing the pro. It seems a lot of people do. Unfortunatelly the route has seen quite a number of falls, some with injuries. I do not recomend it for early 5.9 climbers. Aug 6, 2009

One word. Radical! Dec 28, 2009

I led this one last week. It was a great and fun 5.9 climb. I thought the the 7 or 8 feet before the roof was harder than the roof itself, which is loaded with good holds. May 28, 2010

The guidebook points out that the flake has withstood 50 years of being a handhold and a foothold and takes good small wires that people have fallen on; maybe it's pretty solid after all. Jul 26, 2010

The V chimney finish is the original line, but if you go right to the bolts, as nearly everyone does these days, you're not really missing much IMO. But here's yet another option, one that adds 30-40' of quality climbing - When you are at the spot post-crux where you would head right to get to the bolts, look out to your left. Plug a blue Camalot in that big horizontal, then climb straight up above it (on what is a rounded arete of sorts, maybe 5.7/8 moves, feels quite exposed) to a stance out left. Get gear here, then climb up to finish on the last few feet of Horseman or if you're a purist, stay just a few feet right of Horseman (a bit dirty and not a lot of gear if you do this latter option). Aug 5, 2010

I led this route again after my comment of Jul 26th. Friends had told me of a bomber pink tricam placement up and right of the flake, and indeed, it's an atypical placement, more pod-like than horizontal, but very good.

And a good thing, too, the flake sounds and feels more insecure than it did a decade ago. Oct 11, 2010

I had really wanted to lead this line after playing around on everything around it. Everything kindof built up to taking the sharp end and goin up. I was surprised to see that the hardest section was just before the overhang in the inside corners, once you hit the overhang the whole thing is over its a jug haul. The route was a complete mental game, best advice i can give is bring doubles almost triples of bd purple and the green and a few finger sized gear. The purple c4 you place before the roof inspires confidence. Mar 21, 2011

Although I have no real desire to lead it, I would follow this route all day. I feel this is extremely accessible for the rating. However, expect sustained moves (don't go to heavy on your arms) rather than one show stopper and the rest of the climb being relatively easy. Apr 18, 2011

One of my favorite routes. Always surprised by how few stars it gets in the guide books. The flake moves are really not bad, and the crux is well protected and not so bad if you find all of the rests - and move QUICKLY!! This is a great last climb of the day on your way out when you just have a little bit of light left. Apr 9, 2012

I thought the v chimney at the top added to an already fantastic route. Not dirty at all, protects well, enjoyable and exposed stemming. Five star route for sure. May 18, 2014

This line is wonderful. Spicy crux down low leads to great flowy climbing above. The roof was full of jugs and i would call it 5.7...I also didn't use anything above a 0.75 despite bringing up to a #3.
I didn't protect the flake deeming too loose and had I fallen there, I estimate that it would've been real close to a deck fall, hence the PG rating. YMMV. Oct 9, 2014

For me, the move past the flake is the crux of this climb. Apr 12, 2016

I think this route is easy for the grade but pumpy unless you run out certain sections of it. Pink tricam worked for me as described, but it gets out easily if you pull out and not down, so not sure if that's going to hold the fall. Jul 11, 2016

I was excited about the pink tricam above the flake the first time I led this. However, after a second go, I think I agree with Sergey. It's not a very stable placement and I wouldn't trust it to hold a fall. It just pops out too easily. If you're tall, you can avoid the flake entirely by going left at the flake. There's a good horizontal about 3 feet above and to the left of the flake. May 22, 2017