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Routes in a1. The Uberfall - left
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69 T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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Apoplexy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Birthday Biscuit Boy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Black Fly T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Brat, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Bridal Path T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Bunny T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Cordelette Arete T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c |
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Coronary T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Crackatoa T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Dirty Gerdie T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Double Chin T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Double Clutch T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Easy Keyhole T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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Executioner aka That's Horsesh** T.C., The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Eyebrow T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 |
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Fancy I T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Handy Andy T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Heel Hook and Hack-it T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b X |
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Herdie Gerdie T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Horseman T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Katzenjammer T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Keyhole T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Lower Eaves T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Mental Block T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c X |
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Nice 5.9 Climb T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Nice Crack Climb T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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No Picnic T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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No Solution T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Nosedive T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Nurdie Gerdie (aka Dogs in Heat) T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Pony Express T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Red Cabbage T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Red Cabbage Right T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Retribution T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Shit or Go Blind T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Short and Simple T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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Short Job T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Something Scary T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b R |
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Sonja T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Stupid Crack T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Suderiferous: 5.8 variation T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Sudoriferous T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c PG13 |
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Susie K. Block, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b A4 X |
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Trust Jesus T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A4 X |
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Veal in a Blender T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Zoomulator T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a PG13 |
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| Type: | Trad, 90 ft (27 m) |
| FA: | Jim McCarthy, 1960 |
| Page Views: | 15,281 total · 85/month |
| Shared By: | Mike fenice on Jul 10, 2006 |
| Admins: | RJ B |
Your Star Rating:
Access Issue: Tree Preservation and Rappelling
Details
Please use bolted rappel anchors to descend whenever possible.
The Mohonk Preserve, GCC, Access Fund, and Petzl have worked to install bolted anchors that eliminate the need to rappel from healthy trees with slings and rings. The primary reason for this action has been to reduce impact on the trees. By monitoring the trees we have direct evidence that this has worked.
Do NOT rappel from trees without in situ anchors. Wrapping ropes around trees is banned by the Mohonk Preserve, and damages the tree even if done only once. The Mohonk Preserve is private land and climbing access is a privilege that can be revoked. It is incumbent upon us as climbers to speak up when we witness environmentally unsound practices – so DO speak up and spread the word.
Currently there are enough rappel stations and walk-off options that a VERY short walk will lead to a bolted station, healthy tree with slings, or down-climb descent. The Gunks Apps, MP, and newer print guidebook each have detailed information that provide Leave No Trace descents.
If you feel there is a situation where there is no good LNT descent, you can contact the GCC or the Climbing Ranger of the Mohonk Preserve directly.
The Mohonk Preserve, GCC, Access Fund, and Petzl have worked to install bolted anchors that eliminate the need to rappel from healthy trees with slings and rings. The primary reason for this action has been to reduce impact on the trees. By monitoring the trees we have direct evidence that this has worked.
Do NOT rappel from trees without in situ anchors. Wrapping ropes around trees is banned by the Mohonk Preserve, and damages the tree even if done only once. The Mohonk Preserve is private land and climbing access is a privilege that can be revoked. It is incumbent upon us as climbers to speak up when we witness environmentally unsound practices – so DO speak up and spread the word.
Currently there are enough rappel stations and walk-off options that a VERY short walk will lead to a bolted station, healthy tree with slings, or down-climb descent. The Gunks Apps, MP, and newer print guidebook each have detailed information that provide Leave No Trace descents.
If you feel there is a situation where there is no good LNT descent, you can contact the GCC or the Climbing Ranger of the Mohonk Preserve directly.
Description
This great route has a bit of everything on it, from scary face climbing with little pro, to a well-protected crux at the end.
Start up the face ten feet right of Horseman and aim for a small loose flake. Heaven help the person that falls on the gear placed behind it - it would rip right off the wall! From here you can either escape right to a tree, or climb the real route and head up the roof on the left. Put your game face on, because there are a couple of balancy moves before you get to a good rest. Once you're past the roof, head right to a set of chains.
Start up the face ten feet right of Horseman and aim for a small loose flake. Heaven help the person that falls on the gear placed behind it - it would rip right off the wall! From here you can either escape right to a tree, or climb the real route and head up the roof on the left. Put your game face on, because there are a couple of balancy moves before you get to a good rest. Once you're past the roof, head right to a set of chains.
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