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Routes in a1. The Uberfall - left

69 T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Apoplexy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Birthday Biscuit Boy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Black Fly T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Brat Direct, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bridal Path T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bunny T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Cordelette Arete T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Coronary T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Crackatoa T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Dirty Gerdie T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Double Chin T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Double Clutch T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Easy Keyhole T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Executioner aka That's Horsesh** T.C., The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Eyebrow T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Fancy Idiot T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Handy Andy T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Heel Hook and Hack-it T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b X
Herdie Gerdie T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Horseman T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Katzenjammer T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Keyhole T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lower Eaves T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Nice 5.9 Climb T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Nice Crack Climb T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
No Picnic T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
No Solution T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Nosedive T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Nurdie Gerdie (aka Dogs in Heat) T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Pony Express T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Red Cabbage T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Red Cabbage Right T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Retribution T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Shit or Go Blind T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Short Job T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Short and Simple T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Sonja T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Stupid Crack T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Suderiferous: 5.8 variation T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Sudoriferous T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c PG13
Susie K. Block, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b A4 X
Trust Jesus T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A4 X
Zoomulator T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a PG13
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Jim Andress, 1956 FFA: Gerry Bloch, 1956
Page Views: 2,077 total, 20/month
Shared By: grk10vq on Apr 3, 2009
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


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Description

A route with numerous variations, Handy Andy does not disappoint. The path of least resistance starts off tricky on steep terrain. Deliberately choose your moves through the first two pins. Traverse left to some small crimps and aim to gain the arete. From here climb straight up to the crack and enjoy a comfortable stance. Follow this right leaning crack over moderate ground, past a tree to the ledge above.

Var.2 (.10d/.11a) Begin 12 feet left of original start under the obvious roof. Boulder your way through the overhang, unprotected, to a dark colored area of rock, cruise right then up to join the crack. FA: D. Williams, 1964

Location

Handy Andy is among four or five routes when first entering the Trapps. It sits 35 feet right and around the corner from Katzenjammer in a right-facing corner on a root system opposite a tree.

Protection

Two pins protect the original start, slings and larger pieces are ... handy. Cams from a .75 to a #5 bd will fit - hexes too, if you desire. Eye up the crack and choose your own adventure. A small and large tree on the ledge above are suitable anchors.

Walk off left.

Photos

Kristian Starheim
Trondheim, Norway
Kristian Starheim   Trondheim, Norway
Small X4-cams and small nuts came in very handy on the start slab. Going from the first to the second thin crack I felt that falling would be a ground-fall, though, so good margins are recommended. Jun 21, 2014
Andy Weinmann
Silver Spring, MD
  5.8+
Andy Weinmann   Silver Spring, MD
  5.8+
Not for the new 5.7 leader. Plenty of hard options on this and I can see how you can easily get off route/confused. I think if you traverse the crack all the way out from the pin it would be 5.7 but this seems very contrived. Going straight up from the pin to the next horizontal seemed like the obvious line. Found it a good deal harder than 5.7. Lo and behold I was on a variation that is like 5.8+/5.9ish; the gear looked better this way. A large hex or large cam (#5 range) would be nice to drop in the large crack when you exit the lower section. I somehow made a brown tri-cam work there. Otherwise there isn't much gear for a few more moves. May 1, 2012
Simon Thompson
New Paltz, NY
 
Simon Thompson   New Paltz, NY
 
I climbed this in 2007... first 5.7 I ever climbed. I distinctly remember pulling on one of the pins to make it up on TR. Fun climb. Nov 27, 2011
gblauer Blauer
Wayne, PA
gblauer Blauer   Wayne, PA
I seconded this climb. Very thin climbing through the first couple of pins. NOt sure the pins would hold a fall through this delicate and technical climb. Fun on TR. Apr 5, 2010