Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Jim Andress, 1956 FFA: Gerry Bloch, 1956
Page Views: 2,317 total · 19/month
Shared By: grk10vq on Apr 3, 2009
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


29 Opinions

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Description

A route with numerous variations, Handy Andy does not disappoint. The path of least resistance starts off tricky on steep terrain. Deliberately choose your moves through the first two pins. Traverse left to some small crimps and aim to gain the arete. From here climb straight up to the crack and enjoy a comfortable stance. Follow this right leaning crack over moderate ground, past a tree to the ledge above.

Var.2 (.10d/.11a) Begin 12 feet left of original start under the obvious roof. Boulder your way through the overhang, unprotected, to a dark colored area of rock, cruise right then up to join the crack. FA: D. Williams, 1964

Location

Handy Andy is among four or five routes when first entering the Trapps. It sits 35 feet right and around the corner from Katzenjammer in a right-facing corner on a root system opposite a tree.

Protection

Two pins protect the original start, slings and larger pieces are ... handy. Cams from a .75 to a #5 bd will fit - hexes too, if you desire. Eye up the crack and choose your own adventure. A small and large tree on the ledge above are suitable anchors.

Walk off left.

Photos

gblauer Blauer
Wayne, PA
gblauer Blauer   Wayne, PA
I seconded this climb. Very thin climbing through the first couple of pins. NOt sure the pins would hold a fall through this delicate and technical climb. Fun on TR. Apr 5, 2010
Simon Thompson
New Paltz, NY
 
Simon Thompson   New Paltz, NY
 
I climbed this in 2007... first 5.7 I ever climbed. I distinctly remember pulling on one of the pins to make it up on TR. Fun climb. Nov 27, 2011
Andy Weinmann
Silver Spring, MD
  5.8+
Andy Weinmann   Silver Spring, MD
  5.8+
Not for the new 5.7 leader. Plenty of hard options on this and I can see how you can easily get off route/confused. I think if you traverse the crack all the way out from the pin it would be 5.7 but this seems very contrived. Going straight up from the pin to the next horizontal seemed like the obvious line. Found it a good deal harder than 5.7. Lo and behold I was on a variation that is like 5.8+/5.9ish; the gear looked better this way. A large hex or large cam (#5 range) would be nice to drop in the large crack when you exit the lower section. I somehow made a brown tri-cam work there. Otherwise there isn't much gear for a few more moves. May 1, 2012
Kristian Starheim
Trondheim, Norway
Kristian Starheim   Trondheim, Norway
Small X4-cams and small nuts came in very handy on the start slab. Going from the first to the second thin crack I felt that falling would be a ground-fall, though, so good margins are recommended. Jun 21, 2014