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Routes in a1. The Uberfall - left
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69 T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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Apoplexy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Birthday Biscuit Boy T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Black Fly T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Brat Direct, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Bridal Path T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Bunny T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Cordelette Arete T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c |
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Coronary T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Crackatoa T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Dirty Gerdie T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Double Chin T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Double Clutch T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Easy Keyhole T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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Executioner aka That's Horsesh** T.C., The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Eyebrow T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 |
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Fancy Idiot T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Handy Andy T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Heel Hook and Hack-it T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b X |
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Herdie Gerdie T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Horseman T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Katzenjammer T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Keyhole T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Lower Eaves T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Nice 5.9 Climb T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Nice Crack Climb T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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No Picnic T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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No Solution T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Nosedive T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Nurdie Gerdie (aka Dogs in Heat) T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Pony Express T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Red Cabbage T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Red Cabbage Right T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Retribution T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Shit or Go Blind T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Short Job T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Short and Simple T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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Sonja T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Stupid Crack T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Suderiferous: 5.8 variation T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Sudoriferous T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c PG13 |
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Susie K. Block, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b A4 X |
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Trust Jesus T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A4 X |
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Zoomulator T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a PG13 |
| Unsorted Routes: | |
| Type: | Trad, 60 ft |
| FA: | Jim Andress, 1956 FFA: Gerry Bloch, 1956 |
| Page Views: | 2,144 total · 19/month |
| Shared By: | grk10vq on Apr 3, 2009 |
| Admins: | JSH |
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Access Issue: 2018 Peregrine closure: Wisecrack to Scary Area
Details
2018 PEREGRINE FALCON CLIMBING CLOSURE
Due to nesting peregrine falcons, the section of the Trapps cliff between and including the routes Wisecrack (5.6) and Scary Area (5.12) is temporarily closed to rock climbing. This closure is in effect as of March 19, 2018.
The section of Bonticou Crag known as THE SUNBOWL is also temporarily closed to rock climbing. This closure is in effect as of February 23, 2018.
Boulderering Closure: The section of Undercliff Road between and including the boulder problems Atlas (V10) and Yikes (V9) is temporarily closed to bouldering.
Help us to protect the fledging Peregrine Falcons. We ask that you:
• DO NOT use ascent trails or rappel routes that access this area.
• DO NOT use the trails at the top of the cliff in the closure area.
• DO NOT use the section of the cliff base climbers trail between these routes.
• PLEASE refrain from excessive noise making while in the vicinity of this closure.
Visit: mohonkpreserve.org/climb
Due to nesting peregrine falcons, the section of the Trapps cliff between and including the routes Wisecrack (5.6) and Scary Area (5.12) is temporarily closed to rock climbing. This closure is in effect as of March 19, 2018.
The section of Bonticou Crag known as THE SUNBOWL is also temporarily closed to rock climbing. This closure is in effect as of February 23, 2018.
Boulderering Closure: The section of Undercliff Road between and including the boulder problems Atlas (V10) and Yikes (V9) is temporarily closed to bouldering.
Help us to protect the fledging Peregrine Falcons. We ask that you:
• DO NOT use ascent trails or rappel routes that access this area.
• DO NOT use the trails at the top of the cliff in the closure area.
• DO NOT use the section of the cliff base climbers trail between these routes.
• PLEASE refrain from excessive noise making while in the vicinity of this closure.
Visit: mohonkpreserve.org/climb
Access Issue: Seasonal Route Closure
Details
2018 PEREGRINE FALCON CLIMBING CLOSURE
Due to nesting peregrine falcons, the section of the Trapps cliff between and including the routes Wisecrack (5.6) and Scary Area (5.12) is temporarily closed to rock climbing. This closure is in effect as of March 19, 2018.
The section of Bonticou Crag known as THE SUNBOWL is also temporarily closed to rock climbing. This closure is in effect as of February 23, 2018.
Boulderering Closure: The section of Undercliff Road between and including the boulder problems Atlas (V10) and Yikes (V9) is temporarily closed to bouldering.
Help us to protect the fledging Peregrine Falcons. We ask that you:
• DO NOT use ascent trails or rappel routes that access this area.
• DO NOT use the trails at the top of the cliff in the closure area.
• DO NOT use the section of the cliff base climbers trail between these routes.
• PLEASE refrain from excessive noise making while in the vicinity of this closure.
Visit: mohonkpreserve.org/climb
Due to nesting peregrine falcons, the section of the Trapps cliff between and including the routes Wisecrack (5.6) and Scary Area (5.12) is temporarily closed to rock climbing. This closure is in effect as of March 19, 2018.
The section of Bonticou Crag known as THE SUNBOWL is also temporarily closed to rock climbing. This closure is in effect as of February 23, 2018.
Boulderering Closure: The section of Undercliff Road between and including the boulder problems Atlas (V10) and Yikes (V9) is temporarily closed to bouldering.
Help us to protect the fledging Peregrine Falcons. We ask that you:
• DO NOT use ascent trails or rappel routes that access this area.
• DO NOT use the trails at the top of the cliff in the closure area.
• DO NOT use the section of the cliff base climbers trail between these routes.
• PLEASE refrain from excessive noise making while in the vicinity of this closure.
Visit: mohonkpreserve.org/climb
Description
A route with numerous variations, Handy Andy does not disappoint. The path of least resistance starts off tricky on steep terrain. Deliberately choose your moves through the first two pins. Traverse left to some small crimps and aim to gain the arete. From here climb straight up to the crack and enjoy a comfortable stance. Follow this right leaning crack over moderate ground, past a tree to the ledge above.
Var.2 (.10d/.11a) Begin 12 feet left of original start under the obvious roof. Boulder your way through the overhang, unprotected, to a dark colored area of rock, cruise right then up to join the crack. FA: D. Williams, 1964
Var.2 (.10d/.11a) Begin 12 feet left of original start under the obvious roof. Boulder your way through the overhang, unprotected, to a dark colored area of rock, cruise right then up to join the crack. FA: D. Williams, 1964
Location
Handy Andy is among four or five routes when first entering the Trapps. It sits 35 feet right and around the corner from Katzenjammer in a right-facing corner on a root system opposite a tree.
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