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Routes in a1. The Uberfall - left

69 T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Apoplexy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Birthday Biscuit Boy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Black Fly T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Brat Direct, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bridal Path T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bunny T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Cordelette Arete T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Coronary T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Crackatoa T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Dirty Gerdie T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Double Chin T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Double Clutch T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Easy Keyhole T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Executioner aka That's Horsesh** T.C., The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Eyebrow T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Fancy Idiot T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Handy Andy T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Heel Hook and Hack-it T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b X
Herdie Gerdie T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Horseman T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Katzenjammer T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Keyhole T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lower Eaves T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Nice 5.9 Climb T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Nice Crack Climb T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
No Picnic T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
No Solution T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Nosedive T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Nurdie Gerdie (aka Dogs in Heat) T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Pony Express T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Red Cabbage T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Red Cabbage Right T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Retribution T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Shit or Go Blind T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Short Job T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Short and Simple T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Sonja T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Stupid Crack T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Suderiferous: 5.8 variation T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Sudoriferous T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c PG13
Susie K. Block, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b A4 X
Trust Jesus T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A4 X
Zoomulator T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a PG13
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: FFA 1969: Joe Kelsey ans Dick DuMais
Page Views: 2,499 total, 20/month
Shared By: Chris Duca on Aug 18, 2007
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


71 Opinions

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Description

Immediately around the right arete of the giant Dirty Gerdie Block is a hand/finger crack.

Follow this short, positive crack until it ends, then make some cruxy exit moves around to the front of the block. Carefully move up the right side of the face through delicate smears and sloping horizontals to the fixed anchor atop the block.

Location

The obvious crack just to the right of the right arete on the Dirty Gerdie block.

Protection

Small to medium gear. A blue Camalot is helpful once on the face.

Photos

Systematic
  5.9-
Systematic  
  5.9-
This is a fun line. It's over much too soon.

Gear beta: keep finger-size to micro cams handy Sep 13, 2016
paulmadry
  5.9
paulmadry  
  5.9
It is 5.9 --- if you escape quicker to left and climb face , 5.9 + if you stay on right longer Aug 1, 2010
gblauer Blauer
Wayne, PA
gblauer Blauer   Wayne, PA
I climbed this today (my first gunks 9 lead). I went straight up the crack, headed right when the crack ended and then left and around the arete to finish on the face. Would recommend this short and straight forward climb to anyone breaking into the grade. Sep 13, 2009
vanishing spy
  5.9
vanishing spy  
  5.9
I did the same thing, up the obvious crack (not using the arete) till it ends then moved right 2 feet to the holds, straight up to the arete and then move left around the corner. It's the natural thing to do when you're leading. Jun 16, 2009
I did this yesterday and went right where the crack peters out and up around a blocky section with no gear. This felt like 5.9 to me. There were holds out right, so that's where I went, then up and back left around to the face, then up to the tree.
Four pieces is all you need. But which four? I'll let you figure that out......

good luck Oct 20, 2008