Type: Trad, 30 ft
FA: Dick Williams, John Hudson, Pete Geiser
Page Views: 3,352 total · 26/month
Shared By: monk on Jul 18, 2008
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


52 Opinions

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Description

P1: Start at the Eyebrow crack, climb to a horizontal under the roof and traverse right to a notch in the roof. Pull the roof at the notch. Continue to the Eyebrow belay.

P2: Climb straight up towards the triangle block in the roof above. Step left then back right until you are under the roof. Pull the roof just right of the triangle block. Good and very different in feel from the first pitch.

P1 is harder if you're short.

After pulling the crux, many people choose to rap from the obvious tree rather than continue to the Eyebrow belay.

Protection

Normal gunks rack.

Photos

Goodhue
Colorado
  5.9+
Goodhue   Colorado
  5.9+
Great excuse to use a #4 Camalot. Fits perfectly in the notch over the roof. Fun to throw for the horizontal from the edge of the roof with an incredibly safe fall onto your big ol cam. Nov 3, 2008
monk
  5.9+
monk  
  5.9+
That notch over the roof is a cool feature. I don't remember what I used to protect that move, but I don't have a #4 Camalot and I know I had bomber gear. So if you don't have a giant cam, don't worry about it. This climb protects well with a normal rack.

BTW, I've seen this crux done at least three different ways - including throwing, as you say. The crux is height related, but I'm able to reach it (I'm 5'8"). Nov 5, 2008
gblauer Blauer
Wayne, PA
gblauer Blauer   Wayne, PA
Got spit off over and over again. At 5'2", I had a tough time throwing. I tried heel hooking, sticking my foot in the crack, took many many lead falls.

Just lead it again in summer 2014. I found an easier way to pull the move and did it with no falls. It's all about the feet! Jun 5, 2010
John Ely
DC
 
John Ely   DC
 
Be sure not to miss the second pitch. A little round about but the overhang is interesting. Nov 20, 2012
xcrag-corex
The Mighty Granite State
xcrag-corex   The Mighty Granite State
Threw my self at this for a while in fall of 2011.... Cant wait to get back at it. Definitely safe falls on the #4 Mar 6, 2013
gblauer Blauer
Wayne, PA
gblauer Blauer   Wayne, PA
Success!!! I figured out how to make the move. I lead this on Sunday and was pleased as punch to finish the climb. The traverse is a bit pumpy, the "move" is well protected by a number 4. Fun, short novelty climb. Jun 9, 2014
With a 5'4" reach, I had to heel hook to get my shoulder up high enough to go up at the normal spot. Jul 21, 2014
Joel Ryan
New York, New York
 
Joel Ryan   New York, New York
 
Fun, short, bouldery. Jul 27, 2016