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Routes in a1. The Uberfall - left

69 T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Apoplexy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Birthday Biscuit Boy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Black Fly T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Brat Direct, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bridal Path T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bunny T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Cordelette Arete T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Coronary T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Crackatoa T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Dirty Gerdie T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Double Chin T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Double Clutch T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Easy Keyhole T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Executioner aka That's Horsesh** T.C., The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Eyebrow T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Fancy Idiot T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Handy Andy T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Heel Hook and Hack-it T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b X
Herdie Gerdie T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Horseman T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Katzenjammer T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Keyhole T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lower Eaves T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Nice 5.9 Climb T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Nice Crack Climb T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
No Picnic T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
No Solution T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Nosedive T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Nurdie Gerdie (aka Dogs in Heat) T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Pony Express T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Red Cabbage T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Red Cabbage Right T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Retribution T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Shit or Go Blind T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Short Job T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Short and Simple T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Sonja T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Stupid Crack T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Suderiferous: 5.8 variation T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Sudoriferous T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c PG13
Susie K. Block, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b A4 X
Trust Jesus T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A4 X
Zoomulator T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a PG13
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 30 ft
FA: Dick Williams, John Hudson, Pete Geiser
Page Views: 3,085 total, 27/month
Shared By: monk on Jul 18, 2008
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


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Description

P1: Start at the Eyebrow crack, climb to a horizontal under the roof and traverse right to a notch in the roof. Pull the roof at the notch. Continue to the Eyebrow belay.

P2: Climb straight up towards the triangle block in the roof above. Step left then back right until you are under the roof. Pull the roof just right of the triangle block. Good and very different in feel from the first pitch.

P1 is harder if you're short.

After pulling the crux, many people choose to rap from the obvious tree rather than continue to the Eyebrow belay.

Protection

Normal gunks rack.

Photos

Joel Ryan
New York, New York
 
Joel Ryan   New York, New York
 
Fun, short, bouldery. Jul 27, 2016
With a 5'4" reach, I had to heel hook to get my shoulder up high enough to go up at the normal spot. Jul 21, 2014
gblauer Blauer
Wayne, PA
gblauer Blauer   Wayne, PA
Success!!! I figured out how to make the move. I lead this on Sunday and was pleased as punch to finish the climb. The traverse is a bit pumpy, the "move" is well protected by a number 4. Fun, short novelty climb. Jun 9, 2014
Threw my self at this for a while in fall of 2011.... Cant wait to get back at it. Definitely safe falls on the #4 Mar 6, 2013
John Ely
DC
 
John Ely   DC
 
Be sure not to miss the second pitch. A little round about but the overhang is interesting. Nov 20, 2012
gblauer Blauer
Wayne, PA
gblauer Blauer   Wayne, PA
Got spit off over and over again. At 5'2", I had a tough time throwing. I tried heel hooking, sticking my foot in the crack, took many many lead falls.

Just lead it again in summer 2014. I found an easier way to pull the move and did it with no falls. It's all about the feet! Jun 5, 2010
monk
 
monk  
 
That notch over the roof is a cool feature. I don't remember what I used to protect that move, but I don't have a #4 Camalot and I know I had bomber gear. So if you don't have a giant cam, don't worry about it. This climb protects well with a normal rack.

BTW, I've seen this crux done at least three different ways - including throwing, as you say. The crux is height related, but I'm able to reach it (I'm 5'8"). Nov 5, 2008
Goodhue
Boulder, CO
  5.9+
Goodhue   Boulder, CO
  5.9+
Great excuse to use a #4 Camalot. Fits perfectly in the notch over the roof. Fun to throw for the horizontal from the edge of the roof with an incredibly safe fall onto your big ol cam. Nov 3, 2008