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Routes in a1. The Uberfall - left

69 T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Apoplexy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Birthday Biscuit Boy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Black Fly T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Brat Direct, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bridal Path T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bunny T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Cordelette Arete T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Coronary T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Crackatoa T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Dirty Gerdie T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Double Chin T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Double Clutch T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Easy Keyhole T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Executioner aka That's Horsesh** T.C., The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Eyebrow T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Fancy Idiot T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Handy Andy T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Heel Hook and Hack-it T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b X
Herdie Gerdie T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Horseman T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Katzenjammer T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Keyhole T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lower Eaves T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Nice 5.9 Climb T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Nice Crack Climb T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
No Picnic T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
No Solution T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Nosedive T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Nurdie Gerdie (aka Dogs in Heat) T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Pony Express T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Red Cabbage T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Red Cabbage Right T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Retribution T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Shit or Go Blind T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Short Job T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Short and Simple T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Sonja T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Stupid Crack T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Suderiferous: 5.8 variation T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Sudoriferous T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c PG13
Susie K. Block, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b A4 X
Trust Jesus T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A4 X
Zoomulator T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a PG13
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, TR, 60 ft
FA: Kevin Bein (TR, 1976) Sebastian Schwertner (Lead, 1988).
Page Views: 3,106 total, 30/month
Shared By: - - - on May 23, 2009
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


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Description

Climb up the face between Nosedive and Retribution, pulling the roof right in the middle.

Location

Right on the carriage road, in the Uberfall area. Right between Nosedive and Retribution, which are ~150 feet left of Horseman.

Protection

TR from the bolt anchors shared with Nosedive and Retribution

Photos

Simon Thompson
New Paltz, NY
Simon Thompson   New Paltz, NY
Awesome job leading this thing. Apr 29, 2013
C3s probably weren't around when the X consensus was reached. I'll still stick to tr though. Nov 7, 2012
monkeyvanya
Denver, CO
5.12a R
monkeyvanya   Denver, CO
5.12a R
Mark: blue - is purple Aug 3, 2011
Mark Roth
Boulder
Mark Roth   Boulder
Good job leading it. But I think there might be a mistake with your gear beta as there is no Blue C3? May 12, 2011
monkeyvanya
Denver, CO
5.12a R
monkeyvanya   Denver, CO
5.12a R
I lead this route after continuous rehearsal in the fall of 2010.

The route is actually quite leader-friendly despite its X rating in Williams guidebook. You don't have to place pro on either retribution or nosedive. Double ropes help.

Warning, gear and route beta below:

Green c3 - horizontal before the roof (bomber)
Red c3 + blue ballnut - below the roof (Ok, if the rock is not wet)
Purple c3 - lip of the roof (psychological)

After you pull the roof, there are a few 5.9 moves with a ground fall potential.
Green c3 - sloping pocket on the left in horizontal between two roofs (Another psychological piece, I would skip it if leading on a single rope)
Red c3 - smiling horizontal crack to the right, pretty close to Nosedive, but still on the main face (you can put 2-3 cams of the same size, very solid place)
.3 c4 + .5 linkcam (.4 c4 or yellow/green alien offset should fit too) - in the rest horizontal before the final crux, also bomber placement.

One thing to keep in mind placing pro under the roof: Gunks roofs form at fault lines where the rock is not so solid and gets very fragile after continuous rain. Even though it may look dry on the outside, it is little more than pebbles and sand glued with mud inside - an interesting discovery that cost my friend a broken rib. I would let it dry for a week after good rainstorm. Apr 7, 2011