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a2. The Uberfall - right

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
BB Route T 
Birch T,TR 
Boston T,TR 
CC Route T 
Charie TR 
Clover T 
Crimson Corner T 
Crowberry Ridge T 
Das Wiggles T 
DD Route T 
Dirty Chimney T 
Eyesore T 
Fitschen's Folly T,TR 
Flake, The T,TR 
Freebie TR 
Harvard T 
Hudson's Boulder Problem, aka Trashcan Overhang T,TR 
Jacob's Ladder T,TR 
Junior T,TR 
Ken's Crack T 
Laurel T 
Low Exposure T 
Mitty Mouse  T 
No-Pro T,TR 
Phoebe T,TR 
Rhododendron T 
Shitty Mitty T,TR 
Squiggles T 
Squiggles Direct T,TR 
Star Route, The T 
Susie A T 
Trapped Like a Rat T 
Uberfall Descent T 
Unknown aka Ken and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance TR 
Walter Mitty T 
Wriggles T 
Yale T 

a2. The Uberfall - right Rock Climbing 


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Location: 41.73713, -74.18881 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 7,105
Administrators: JSH, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: JSH on Mar 4, 2017
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In this Picture you can see why Kens Crack Rocks!

Along the cliff 

Previously: Uberfall - left side | Next area: Jackie

Description 

Major Features: The Uberfall is the first section of rock you encounter as you walk north from the steel bridge that separates the Trapps from the Nears. On most in-season weekend days, a Preserve ranger is parked at the Uberfall, and it's a very social area.

Lest you think the Uberfall is named for the trickle (or, in season, the pouring) of water that descends down the escarpment here, Dick Williams wrote in his 1991 guide: The Uberfall acquired its name, according to Fritz Weissner in a 1960 Appalachia article, from 'the method used in the descent of letting oneself, with outstretched arms, fall across the four-foot gap between the massif and a huge block (Susie A) above the road'.

In this section, routes start with the Laurel block; Laurel is on the left, the easily-identifiable finger crack that widens to fists higher. Rhododendron is the hands crack on the right side of the block. The Uberfall section ends just past the striking, right-leaning crack of Ken's Crack. The very last route in this section is the corner system of Trapped Like a Rat, which starts with a left-leaning hand crack, just behind the kiosk, the Hans Krauss plaque, and is almost directly across from the vault toilet (the "Uberpooper"). The next section is b. Jackie and friends.

There are two landmarks within the Uberfall: the Gerdie Block is a huge block leaning against the cliff with the routes Herdie Gerdie, Dirty Gerdie, and Nurdie Gerdie (aka Dogs in Heat); on the block's right side is the short crack of Red Cabbage.

Just below the carriage road across from Nosedive is another big block -- the Mental Block. It contains one of the Gunks' true crack lines, Sonja, and several other harder cracks, which face the road.

Approach: Most Uberfall routes start almost directly from the carriage road. A trail runs along the cliff between The Brat and the Gerdie Block.

Descents from most routes involves walking off; most Uberfall routes are single-pitch. Closer to the very beginning, you'll be able to walk back and scramble down behind the cliff. It's a good idea to familiarize yourself with the Uberfall Descent, which provides the walkoff for the majority of Uberfall routes as well as many beyond it.

Getting There 

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Climbing Season



Weather station 2.9 miles from here

37 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',10],['2 Stars',19],['1 Star',7],['Bomb',1]
['<=5.6',14],['5.7',4],['5.8',6],['5.9',1],['5.10',8],['5.11',4],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in a2. The Uberfall - right

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for a2. The Uberfall - right:
Uberfall Descent   Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c     Trad, 25'   
Boston   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 50'   
Rhododendron   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   
Eyesore   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
Laurel   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   
CC Route   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   
Clover   5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 95'   
Ken's Crack   5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   
Trapped Like a Rat   5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Fitschen's Folly   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X     Trad, TR, 50'   
BB Route   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   
Walter Mitty   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   
Mitty Mouse    5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   
Junior   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 50'   
Charie   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a X     TR, 1 pitch, 35'   
Jacob's Ladder   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R     Trad, TR, 50'   
DD Route   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   
Phoebe   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 45'   
Hudson's Boulder Problem, aka Trashcan Overhang   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, TR   
Low Exposure   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 40'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in a2. The Uberfall - right

Featured Route For a2. The Uberfall - right
Rock Climbing Photo: The top of The Flake when it is a little wet...

The Flake 5.1 2 6 II 7 MD 2a PG13  New York : The Gunks : ... : a2. The Uberfall - right
The big flake left of Ken's Crack . Work your way up the really obvious flake and/or the gap behind it. Worming and squirming inside the gap is possible, but awkward - the inside walls are mostly smooth and dirty. Staying mostly on the outside of the flake is more fun. I bet the awkward stemming chimney was the original route; it would have felt more secure in the days when "the leader must not fall" due to fragile ropes.The us...[more]   Browse More Classics in New York

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