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YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Thornton Reed, Norton Smithe, Lester Germer 1950s
Page Views: 8,611
Submitted By: Adam Catalano on Mar 29, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (338)
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Placing a #0.3 C4 for the first piece.


Start at a thin crack on the left side of a block about 35' right of Horseman.

A bouldery start stumps many beginners. The moves (and the gear) is all there, but both can be tricky.

The climbing eases back to 5.6 after the opening moves. The crack climbing is supplemented by many face holds as well. Enjoy the incredible fist-jam move just before the finish.

Bolted anchor at the top.


There are two cracks splitting a block to the right of Horseman. The crack on the left is Laurel.


Standard rack, including a 3" piece. The two-bolt anchor on top can be accessed by the 5.0 chimney to the left.

Photos of Laurel Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Jack protects the final section of Laurel - a wond...
Jack protects the final section of Laurel - a wond...
Rock Climbing Photo: laurel first pitch
laurel first pitch
Rock Climbing Photo: I got a red c3 in as my first piece, which wasn't ...
BETA PHOTO: I got a red c3 in as my first piece, which wasn't ...
Rock Climbing Photo: start of laurel
start of laurel
Rock Climbing Photo: Ryan Brink nearing the top.
Ryan Brink nearing the top.
Rock Climbing Photo: on Laurel
on Laurel
Rock Climbing Photo: Laurel.  Follow the crack.  Bouldery start at the ...
BETA PHOTO: Laurel. Follow the crack. Bouldery start at the ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Laurel is the left crack with climber at the ancho...
BETA PHOTO: Laurel is the left crack with climber at the ancho...

Comments on Laurel Add Comment
Show which comments
By mirandas-daddy
From: Carlisle, PA
Sep 1, 2008
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

What a great 1st route for my first outside TR. The close to the deck crux made feel like I was bouldering at the gym . . . it felt like home. I would add that I made the offset at the top so much harder than it had to be, note to newbies, learn to crack climb :-) Way fun send!!!
By Jason Antin
From: Golden, CO
Mar 25, 2010
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13

The trees are gone :(
Jun 23, 2010

O, the things that used to be: once upon a time, a piton protected the first moves. I even fell on it once. It's gone, but several different small cams will keep you safe off the deck (and it's a good idea to use them). There used to be a tree at the top, then came the bolts, then the tree went. Alas!

This is one of my favorite first-lead-of-the-season routes, just to see (or shock) what's in my lead head.
By rogerbenton
May 21, 2012

The "hard moves" to start are really one awkward move to a gear placing stance.

Very nice route, and the fist jam at the top is an awesome last move.
By K Baumgartner
Aug 27, 2012
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Fun lead for the grade. Crux was getting off the ground with extremely polished footholds. You have the choice of putting in pro off the ground and taking away a good hold or no pro at the bottom and your choice of holds.
By Nick Hamilton
From: Philadelphia
Sep 24, 2014
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

This route is a fun romp once past the first move or two. I always manage to get a stupidly high left foot to avoid dealing with any tiny and/or polished footholds at the start. I use a green Alien for my first piece, but I don't place it until my hands are on the first good ledge on the right side of the crack.

I wish this route were twice as long!
By Steve Blevins
From: Central Coast, CA
Apr 17, 2015
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

The 'bouldery' moves seemed to go OK using 5.9 techniques. I thrashed and thrashed and finally had to take trying to make it go anywhere near 5.7. Perhaps back in the day the foot holds were not so polished.
By Jon Po
From: Mahwah, NJ
Nov 1, 2015
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

I agree with the comment above... the boulder problem off the ground is definitely harder than 5.7, for sure. I'm pretty sureI've decked off it twice. It's not bad though if you have strong ankles.
By rogerbenton
Oct 26, 2016

Hit this again this weekend for the first time in years and it's still a wonderful little route.
It was my first lead in a few months and what a great line to get back into it on- this thing eats gear.
By Bennett LaFond
Jul 4, 2017

This was my first outdoor trad lead (well, second. My first was a 5.3, Easy Keyhole, but let's just not count that nonsense). Didn't find the gear sparse at all. What a great climb! I found a BD#4 to be the right piece for the crack at the top.

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