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Routes in a2. The Uberfall - right

BB Route T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Birch T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Boston T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
CC Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Charie TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a X
Clover T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Crimson Corner T 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c
Crowberry Ridge T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R
DD Route T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Das Wiggles T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a PG13
Dirty Chimney T 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c
Eyesore T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Fitschen's Folly T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Flake, The T,TR 5.1 2 6 II 7 MD 2a PG13
Freebie TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Harvard T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Hudson's Boulder Problem, aka Trashcan Overhang T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Jacob's Ladder T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Junior T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Ken's Crack T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Laurel T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Low Exposure T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Mitty Mouse T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
No-Pro T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Phoebe T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Rhododendron T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Shitty Mitty T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Squiggles T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Squiggles Direct T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Star Route, The T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Susie A T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Trapped Like a Rat T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Uberfall Descent T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c
Unknown aka Ken and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Walter Mitty T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Wriggles T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Yale T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
You're Probably Off Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: John Turner (?)
Page Views: 3,277 total, 28/month
Shared By: Joe M on Jun 3, 2008 with updates
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


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Description

This is a great, unique Gunks route that uses chimney, hand and off-width crack techniques as well as a little face climbing. Climb the obvious crack in the left facing corner and traverse under a big roof to the left and over the nose/flake. Pass the huge ring bolt and walk off the Uberfall or set up an anchor on gear to toprope.

Location

Just past the Uberfall and about 50 to the right of Ken's Crack. Start in the short chimney in the large left facing corner.

Protection

A standard rack will suffice, though it's possible to place gear up to a #5. No anchors at top, you must build your own or walk off left and down the Uberfall Descent.

Photos

MojoMonkey  
 
Fun route with a variety of climbing in a short pitch. The bolt mentioned in the previous comment is no longer present, but there is a pin a little up and left of it. I have no real facility for judging their condition but both pins on the route seemed solid enough for me to trust. Fun little connection to history girth hitching the big ring too! Unfortunately there is obvious wear on the bolt from folks either lowering or TRing through it.

Maybe height related (I'm 6'), but the traverse seemed pretty straightforward to me using the face for hands and feet and only reaching up to the flake at the end when it was time to clip the pin and try the layback. I did have a #4 C4 which I was able to place high enough in the crack above to fit with a long sling to protect the traverse. Jun 27, 2016
klouie  
For those interested, there are two pieces of fixed pro in addition to the giant ring: a piton about a third of the way up when the crack begins to narrow from offwidth, and a bolt on the face to the left of the nose. You have to step up to clip the bolt but it will protect the burly layback moves to the finish.

I agree with Brian, we protected the whole climb with nothing bigger than a gold C4 (#2). The traverse protects okay with small gear, a little fiddly and balancey to place but definitely there. Apr 8, 2013
BrianRH
Jersey City, NJ
 
BrianRH   Jersey City, NJ
 
I've never had anything bigger than a #3 camalot on this one, and use the giant ring bolt for a tr. Seems very solid last I checked. Good way finish to the day, and lets you TR the 5.10ish face climbs next to it... Apr 10, 2012
This is a really fun route with a cool variety of moves. The crack down low seemed harder than it looked and the roof seemed easier. Go figure. Definitely worth doing, but seemed hard for the grade to me. Oct 2, 2008
gblauer Blauer
Wayne, PA
gblauer Blauer   Wayne, PA
I found this to ba a little spicy at the flake. Well actually, it begins before the flake, at the traverse. I think it's a height issue, my fingertips barely reached the flake. Jul 29, 2008