Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: John Turner (?)
Page Views: 3,508 total · 27/month
Shared By: Joe M on Jun 3, 2008 with updates from Ben Hoste
Admins: JSH

You & This Route

51 Opinions

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This is a great, unique Gunks route that uses chimney, hand and off-width crack techniques as well as a little face climbing. Climb the obvious crack in the left facing corner and traverse under a big roof to the left and over the nose/flake. Pass the huge ring bolt and walk off the Uberfall or set up an anchor on gear to toprope.


Just past the Uberfall and about 50 to the right of Ken's Crack. Start in the short chimney in the large left facing corner.


A standard rack will suffice, though it's possible to place gear up to a #5. No anchors at top, you must build your own or walk off left and down the Uberfall Descent.


gblauer Blauer
Wayne, PA
gblauer Blauer   Wayne, PA
I found this to ba a little spicy at the flake. Well actually, it begins before the flake, at the traverse. I think it's a height issue, my fingertips barely reached the flake. Jul 29, 2008
This is a really fun route with a cool variety of moves. The crack down low seemed harder than it looked and the roof seemed easier. Go figure. Definitely worth doing, but seemed hard for the grade to me. Oct 2, 2008
Jersey City, NJ
BrianRH   Jersey City, NJ
I've never had anything bigger than a #3 camalot on this one, and use the giant ring bolt for a tr. Seems very solid last I checked. Good way finish to the day, and lets you TR the 5.10ish face climbs next to it... Apr 10, 2012
For those interested, there are two pieces of fixed pro in addition to the giant ring: a piton about a third of the way up when the crack begins to narrow from offwidth, and a bolt on the face to the left of the nose. You have to step up to clip the bolt but it will protect the burly layback moves to the finish.

I agree with Brian, we protected the whole climb with nothing bigger than a gold C4 (#2). The traverse protects okay with small gear, a little fiddly and balancey to place but definitely there. Apr 8, 2013
Fun route with a variety of climbing in a short pitch. The bolt mentioned in the previous comment is no longer present, but there is a pin a little up and left of it. I have no real facility for judging their condition but both pins on the route seemed solid enough for me to trust. Fun little connection to history girth hitching the big ring too! Unfortunately there is obvious wear on the bolt from folks either lowering or TRing through it.

Maybe height related (I'm 6'), but the traverse seemed pretty straightforward to me using the face for hands and feet and only reaching up to the flake at the end when it was time to clip the pin and try the layback. I did have a #4 C4 which I was able to place high enough in the crack above to fit with a long sling to protect the traverse. Jun 27, 2016