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Routes in a2. The Uberfall - right

BB Route T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Birch T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Boston T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
CC Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Charie TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a X
Clover T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Crimson Corner T 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c
Crowberry Ridge T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R
DD Route T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Das Wiggles T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a PG13
Dirty Chimney T 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c
Eyesore T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Fitschen's Folly T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Flake, The T,TR 5.1 2 6 II 7 MD 2a PG13
Freebie TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Harvard T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Hudson's Boulder Problem, aka Trashcan Overhang T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Jacob's Ladder T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Junior T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Ken's Crack T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Laurel T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Low Exposure T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Mitty Mouse T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
No-Pro T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Phoebe T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Rhododendron T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Shitty Mitty T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Squiggles T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Squiggles Direct T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Star Route, The T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Susie A T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Trapped Like a Rat T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Uberfall Descent T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c
Unknown aka Ken and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Walter Mitty T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Wriggles T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Yale T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
You're Probably Off Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 968 total, 23/month
Shared By: dragons on Jun 25, 2014
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


14 Opinions

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Description

Start on top of a car-sized block below an overhang, 20 ft left of Harvard. Climb up onto the overhang (crux?). For a short person (I'm 5'0"), it's awkward because there are no footholds, but the move is protectable. Diagonal up and right to the top of another large block. From here you will see a chockstone followed by a short crack system - go up here, and continue diagonaling right up several ramps to the top.

Note: the grey Dick Williams puts this at 40 ft, but it seemed more like 80 ft if you go all the way to the top.

Also: the overhanging chockstone seemed precarious, but I did pull myself up on it cautiously and it didn't budge. I checked it from above, and it seemed pretty solidly wedged. Be careful, though, things can change!

Location

About 20 feet left of Harvard, there's a small-car-sized block sheltered by an overhang. "Yale" starts at the top left of this block. You can easily access it by climbing up from the ground on the right.

After topping out, if you walk off left, then you'll quickly find a trail that takes you to the Uberfall.

Protection

Standard Gunks rack, lots of opportunities for passive pro. There are several trees at the top that you can use for anchors.

Photos

David Kerkeslager
Brooklyn, NY
  5.5
David Kerkeslager   Brooklyn, NY
  5.5
dragons, I looked at the pictures again, and I think I was off route. There's a off-width-y crack to the left, between Yale and Crimson Corner. It has big moves between the same horizontal cracks as Yale, but lacks some of Yale's intermediate holds. Some of the difficulty was probably because I expected 5.3.

I'll do Yale again and adjust my rating. Nov 9, 2017
dragons
MWV, NH
 
dragons   MWV, NH
 
David, can you say what felt like 5.5 to you? My old notes tell me that the main difficulty was getting off the initial block (I kind of had to do a mantle + heel hook thing because I'm short). Nov 5, 2017
David Kerkeslager
Brooklyn, NY
  5.5
David Kerkeslager   Brooklyn, NY
  5.5
This felt like a 5.5 to me. For example, it felt harder than Easy Keyhole (5.3) or Black Fly (5.5, but I think it might actually be 5.4), or the first pitch of Madame G (5.4) which I lead the morning before doing Yale. Maybe I was off route? I'm not sure what's going on with the rating here. Oct 24, 2017
Eric Lutz  
 
Revisited this guy yesterday, still fun after 15 years, I wouldn't sweat the big banger of a cammed in blocked it's not going anywhere (yet!!) Feb 22, 2016