Avg: 3 from 472 votes
|Type:||Trad, 50 ft|
|FA:||Ken Prestrud, Lucien Warner, 1951|
|Page Views:||13,364 total · 80/month|
|Shared By:||Ron Olsen on Feb 23, 2006|
The Mohonk Preserve, GCC, Access Fund, and Petzl have worked to install bolted anchors that eliminate the need to rappel from healthy trees with slings and rings. The primary reason for this action has been to reduce impact on the trees. By monitoring the trees we have direct evidence that this has worked.
Do NOT rappel from trees without in situ anchors. Wrapping ropes around trees is banned by the Mohonk Preserve, and damages the tree even if done only once. The Mohonk Preserve is private land and climbing access is a privilege that can be revoked. It is incumbent upon us as climbers to speak up when we witness environmentally unsound practices – so DO speak up and spread the word.
Currently there are enough rappel stations and walk-off options that a VERY short walk will lead to a bolted station, healthy tree with slings, or down-climb descent. The Gunks Apps, MP, and newer print guidebook each have detailed information that provide Leave No Trace descents.
If you feel there is a situation where there is no good LNT descent, you can contact the GCC or the Climbing Ranger of the Mohonk Preserve directly.
Start just right of the Uberfall, on a boulder below an obvious right-leaning finger crack.
P1: Climb the crack and belay from a tree at the top. 5.7+, 50'.
Walk off to the left and downclimb Uberfall Descent.
The carriage road makes most of the approach easy, but there is a section of boulders that must be crossed for access... There are two routes to get a chair to the best spot to start the climb from. Either a long but relatively gentle diagonal from the far left side of the boulder pile, or almost straight up the face closest to the route. The latter seems to work better but needs 4-5 assistants to help.
1. Strongly suggested that the climber should be secured into the chair and wear a helmet.
2. Build an anchor in the horizontal crack about head height, with a rope from there to the back of the chair (climber goes up backwards) This line is primarily for safety and progress capture / descent control.
3. Have 4 (strong) assistants, two in front and two behind the chair boost it up the slope and across the rough area to the fairly level spot in front of the big ledge with the actual route crack a few feet to the front left.
4. Place a couple of pieces about 6' up the crack and use a rope from them to help guide / swing the climber into the space between the ledge and the wall. It helps to have an assistant in the gap as well.