Avg: 3 from 402 votes
|Type:||Trad, 50 ft|
|FA:||Ken Prestrud, Lucien Warner, 1951|
|Page Views:||11,468 total · 79/month|
|Shared By:||Ron Olsen on Feb 23, 2006|
DescriptionA beautiful, short crack climb that is harder than it looks. Sustained and fun.
Start just right of the Uberfall, on a boulder below an obvious right-leaning finger crack.
P1: Climb the crack and belay from a tree at the top. 5.7+, 50'.
Walk off to the left and downclimb Uberfall Descent.
ApproachWheelchair Adaptive Climbing approach/departure suggestions:
The carriage road makes most of the approach easy, but there is a section of boulders that must be crossed for access... There are two routes to get a chair to the best spot to start the climb from. Either a long but relatively gentle diagonal from the far left side of the boulder pile, or almost straight up the face closest to the route. The latter seems to work better but needs 4-5 assistants to help.
1. Strongly suggested that the climber should be secured into the chair and wear a helmet.
2. Build an anchor in the horizontal crack about head height, with a rope from there to the back of the chair (climber goes up backwards) This line is primarily for safety and progress capture / descent control.
3. Have 4 (strong) assistants, two in front and two behind the chair boost it up the slope and across the rough area to the fairly level spot in front of the big ledge with the actual route crack a few feet to the front left.
4. Place a couple of pieces about 6' up the crack and use a rope from them to help guide / swing the climber into the space between the ledge and the wall. It helps to have an assistant in the gap as well.