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Routes in a2. The Uberfall - right

BB Route T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Birch T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Boston T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
CC Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Charie TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a X
Clover T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Crimson Corner T 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c
Crowberry Ridge T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R
DD Route T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Das Wiggles T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a PG13
Dirty Chimney T 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c
Eyesore T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Fitschen's Folly T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Flake, The T,TR 5.1 2 6 II 7 MD 2a PG13
Freebie TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Harvard T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Hudson's Boulder Problem, aka Trashcan Overhang T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Jacob's Ladder T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Junior T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Ken's Crack T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Laurel T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Low Exposure T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Mitty Mouse T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
No-Pro T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Phoebe T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Rhododendron T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Shitty Mitty T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Squiggles T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Squiggles Direct T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Star Route, The T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Susie A T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Trapped Like a Rat T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Uberfall Descent T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c
Unknown aka Ken and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Walter Mitty T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Wriggles T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Yale T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
You're Probably Off Route T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
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Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Ken Prestrud, Lucien Warner, 1951
Page Views: 11,969 total · 79/month
Shared By: Ron Olsen on Feb 23, 2006 with updates from Arthur Torrey
Admins: JSH

You & This Route

426 Opinions

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Access Issue: 2018 Peregrine closure: Wisecrack to Scary Area Details


A beautiful, short crack climb that is harder than it looks. Sustained and fun.

Start just right of the Uberfall, on a boulder below an obvious right-leaning finger crack.

P1: Climb the crack and belay from a tree at the top. 5.7+, 50'.

Walk off to the left and downclimb Uberfall Descent.


Standard rack.


Wheelchair Adaptive Climbing approach/departure suggestions:

The carriage road makes most of the approach easy, but there is a section of boulders that must be crossed for access... There are two routes to get a chair to the best spot to start the climb from. Either a long but relatively gentle diagonal from the far left side of the boulder pile, or almost straight up the face closest to the route. The latter seems to work better but needs 4-5 assistants to help.

1. Strongly suggested that the climber should be secured into the chair and wear a helmet.
2. Build an anchor in the horizontal crack about head height, with a rope from there to the back of the chair (climber goes up backwards) This line is primarily for safety and progress capture / descent control.
3. Have 4 (strong) assistants, two in front and two behind the chair boost it up the slope and across the rough area to the fairly level spot in front of the big ledge with the actual route crack a few feet to the front left.
4. Place a couple of pieces about 6' up the crack and use a rope from them to help guide / swing the climber into the space between the ledge and the wall. It helps to have an assistant in the gap as well.
Paul Crowder
Paul Crowder  
The route description is accurate - this attractive crack is no giveaway. It also sees a lot of traffic due to its relative proximity to the Uberfall and the Carriage Trail. If it's open, jump on it. Mar 12, 2006
Joe M
Beckley, wv
  5.7 PG13
Joe M   Beckley, wv
  5.7 PG13
A very fun crack climb. One of the few lines Ive done so far at the Traps that can be done entirely using crack techniques. A must do. Jun 3, 2008
- - -
- - -  
really solid finger locks. May 21, 2009

the only knock on this fine little route is its length. Jun 8, 2009
Protected the crack all passive. Great route. Jul 29, 2009
This was my first lead.... I think had a set of nuts and a cam. Dec 28, 2009
Jaysen Henderson
Bronx NY
Jaysen Henderson   Bronx NY
I had planned on getting to this all last season and finally got it yesterday. The waterfall just to the left was raging about a foot off the side which made things interesting. This route looks a lot easier than it climbs, it's a good idea to place gear pretty much every move near the bottom to be safe and not deck on the sharp boulder at the base. Great climb tho. Mar 21, 2011
I have to disagree with you, Kevin.

On one level I hear you. The crux comes at a bulge that still feels awfully close to the block at the base. I've gotten weirded out there myself. But the leader has great options. I've put in a another cam and taken a hang there-- IIRC it was a bomber #2 Camalot, but there are probably a dozen other things you could place there. It's totally safe, so long as you do what you're supposed to do. You should place a lot of gear. And you don't need to extend the gear down low, the climb goes in a straight line.

You can't base the rating on what might happen if the gear comes out. If this were the standard then many, perhaps all, G-rated climbs would be unsafe. And as to whether the hands are "critical," well, aren't they always? This climb has great gear all the way up, and great handholds. If it isn't G-rated, then what is? May 16, 2011
100% agree with Seth, this is one of a few climbs in the Gunks, where you have gear above your head almost the entire way up - just throw a nut up higher and your move is on TR. May 16, 2011
Chris Duca
Downingtown, PA
Chris Duca   Downingtown, PA
This and Ant's Line are the 2 safest climbs in the Gunks. gear every inch if you want it, plentiful feet, and, without a doubt, the most secure finger, hand jams in the Gunks. A very safe AND inspiring lead for the budding 5.7 crack climber. And it's not a sandbag, as others may have indicated. May 17, 2011
worth russell
Brooklyn, NY
worth russell   Brooklyn, NY
Gear is no doubt a G, but 5.7? This crack is very pumpy. I would throw it into the 5.8 category and definitely not recommend it for the budding 5.7 leader. I myself am relatively new to 5.7 leading at the Gunks. I would put someone on Limelight and Strictly's before this climb. Jun 14, 2011
Chris Duca
Downingtown, PA
Chris Duca   Downingtown, PA
Sure, if you're new to crack climbing, then this route may feel a bit stout, but climb cracks enough and the jams on this line become as good as jugs. Jun 19, 2011
As someone with little crack experience, I actually thought this route was easier than it looked. Features both inside and outside the crack offered some really solid hands, and solid feet whenever you really need them. Plus there were some good rests. You should be pretty comfortable with a layback once in a while, but you don't need to be a crack specialist. Jul 8, 2011
gblauer Blauer
Wayne, PA
gblauer Blauer   Wayne, PA
I think this is a fine climb to put a 5.7 leader on. It eats gear. There is no reason to get hurt on this climb. Plug gear and go. We put a new trad leader (5.12 sport leader) on this climb the other day and he put in at least 12 pieces of pro on this climb. You can totally sew it. Oct 15, 2011
Watertown, MA
cjdrover   Watertown, MA
Short, safe and fun. 5.7 G feels spot on to me, it might feel strange for some folks since it climbs more like a granite crack than a typical Gunks climb. Would be 4 stars if it was three times longer. Nov 6, 2011
I love this route, even though it's so short, because it's one of the few routes at the Gunks that offers the opportunity to get stellar hand and finger jams (another being Sonja, but it's a notch up in difficulty). I agree with the 5.7 rating, but I think this rating only applies if you're proficient at hand-jamming and finger-locking and you get the crux sequence just right. That being said, hand-jamming and finger-locking don't come naturally to most climbers and the Gunks offers very few options for training this esoteric technique, unlike other areas like Indian Creek, Yosemite, and Red River Gorge where good crack technique is mandatory for most trad routes. I think this explains why some beginners find Ken's Crack really tricky and/or polished. Done with proper crack technique it's a breeze. So if you feel it's difficult I recommend schooling up on crack technique and using this as an opportunity to experiment with different types of jams. Nov 15, 2011
micah richard
Litchfield, Connecticut
micah richard   Litchfield, Connecticut
It is very much cheating to stem off the boulders in front of the crack! Apr 10, 2013
Montreal, Quebec
Luc-514   Montreal, Quebec  
This thing is getting greasier and more rounded as time goes by but the jams and pro are still solid. Sep 22, 2014
Arthur Torrey
North Billerica MA
  5.8- PG13
Arthur Torrey   North Billerica MA
  5.8- PG13
Did this as part of an Adaptive Climbing Group trip - Fantastic guides and volunteers that really worked to pick good routes for each of our abilities and skill sets. I am on the edge of becoming the second known paraplegic to lead climb - and this was going to be my chance... They wanted to check my skills before letting me off top-rope, so I did this with both top-rope and lead rope... Came down after about 30-35' because of harness issues causing my legs to go to sleep, and making about 25 placements - all but one of which was rated as 'bomber'. Would have climbed again on just the lead, but got rained out in a big way.

Really great as an adaptive climb, two others in the group campused up (no gear, top rope and super tight belay for progress capture) so is good for lots of different styles. Also relatively easy to get a climber on and off - the carriage road gets close, and then there are a couple different ways to get a chair to the start of the climb. Sep 17, 2015
Dan Katz
New York, NY
Dan Katz   New York, NY
The crux may be the bulge early on, but (as others have noted) this route is far more sustained than it looks from the ground. Lots of climbing packed into ~50ft. Oct 4, 2017

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