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Routes in a2. The Uberfall - right
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BB Route T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Birch T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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Boston T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13 |
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CC Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Charie TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a X |
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Clover T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Crimson Corner T 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c |
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Crowberry Ridge T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R |
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Das Wiggles T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a PG13 |
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DD Route T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Dirty Chimney T 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c |
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Eyesore T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Fitschen's Folly T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X |
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Flake, The T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13 |
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Freebie TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Harvard T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Hudson's Boulder Problem, aka Trashcan Overhang T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Jacob's Ladder T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Jiggles T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c |
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Junior T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Ken's Crack T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Laurel T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Low Exposure T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Mitty Mouse T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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No-Pro T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Penn T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Phoebe T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R |
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Rhododendron T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Shitty Mitty T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Squiggles T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Squiggles Direct T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Star Route, The T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Susie A T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Trapped Like a Rat T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Uberfall Descent T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c |
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Unknown aka Ken and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Walter Mitty T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Wriggles T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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Yale T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 75 ft |
| FA: | Hans Kraus and Dick Hirschland (1946) |
| Page Views: | 1,960 total · 17/month |
| Shared By: | Mike McLean on Aug 22, 2010 |
| Admins: | JSH |
Your Star Rating:
Access Issue: Tree Preservation and Rappelling
Details
Please use the bolted rappel anchors to descend whenever possible.
The Mohonk Preserve, GCC, Access Fund, and Petzl have worked to install bolted anchors that eliminate the need to rappel from healthy trees with slings and rings. The primary reason for this action has been to reduce impact on the trees. By monitoring the trees we have direct evidence that this has worked.
Do NOT rappel from trees without in situ anchors. Wrapping ropes around trees is banned by the Mohonk Preserve, and damages the tree even if done only once. The Mohonk Preserve is private land and climbing access is a privilege that can be revoked. It is incumbent upon us as climbers to speak up when we witness environmentally unsound practices – so DO speak up and spread the word.
Currently there are enough rappel stations and walk-off options that a VERY short walk will lead to a bolted station, healthy tree with slings, or down-climb descent. The Gunks Apps, MP, and newer print guidebook each have detailed information that provide Leave No Trace descents.
If you feel there is a situation where there is no good LNT descent, you can contact the GCC or the Climbing Ranger of the Mohonk Preserve directly.
The Mohonk Preserve, GCC, Access Fund, and Petzl have worked to install bolted anchors that eliminate the need to rappel from healthy trees with slings and rings. The primary reason for this action has been to reduce impact on the trees. By monitoring the trees we have direct evidence that this has worked.
Do NOT rappel from trees without in situ anchors. Wrapping ropes around trees is banned by the Mohonk Preserve, and damages the tree even if done only once. The Mohonk Preserve is private land and climbing access is a privilege that can be revoked. It is incumbent upon us as climbers to speak up when we witness environmentally unsound practices – so DO speak up and spread the word.
Currently there are enough rappel stations and walk-off options that a VERY short walk will lead to a bolted station, healthy tree with slings, or down-climb descent. The Gunks Apps, MP, and newer print guidebook each have detailed information that provide Leave No Trace descents.
If you feel there is a situation where there is no good LNT descent, you can contact the GCC or the Climbing Ranger of the Mohonk Preserve directly.
Description
From the Dick Williams guide:
'An interesting chimney that is sometimes used as a descent route'
Interesting, in my opinion, is a very polite way to put it. The Gunks has so much better to offer.
If dirty chimneys (contrary to Dirty Chimney itself, this one really is dirty) are your thing, you might appreciate it.
It's also always in the shade, so it can be climbed to kill time while waiting for the sun to set behind the cliff (which is why I got onto it in the first place).
'An interesting chimney that is sometimes used as a descent route'
Interesting, in my opinion, is a very polite way to put it. The Gunks has so much better to offer.
If dirty chimneys (contrary to Dirty Chimney itself, this one really is dirty) are your thing, you might appreciate it.
It's also always in the shade, so it can be climbed to kill time while waiting for the sun to set behind the cliff (which is why I got onto it in the first place).
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